Rear Beam/Brake compensator nightmare !!

[2cc 0]

Yeah, but you know what I mean :lol:

[NickVR6 0]

as 2cc will testify you are lucky, mine are nolonger distinguishable as allen bolts, they are smooooooth, unlike the job of now removing them!

 

Ive got a new exhaust now incase we have to cut that off !

[Dixxy 0]

So we're still in agreement then the brake compensator is virtualy impossible to get off unless its brand new. Which brings me back to the "flipping the axle bolt round fix". Can anyone see any problem with this, i've just got a new bolt from the stealers and there's no obvious reason that it can't be done.

[Scruffythefirst 0]

Rounded cap head bolts can be removed with a torx head bit a size too big a hammer and a breaker bar

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yep, tried that on mine and it didn't work.

[2cc 0]

That sounds like us trying to get one of the front stuts off. After several goes we ended up centre drilling it and cracking it off with a cold chisel. Oh what fun.

[Dixxy 0]

Please Help!!!! have i broken the brake compensator????.....

 

i've managed to pull out the arm from the bottom of the compensator. Can i do this? or have i broken it? was it just the rubber sleave holding it up previously or have i pulled it out of something internally???

 

I've pushed it back up now and pulled the sleave back into position but will this be ok???

 

Any guesses........ Also read that cars fitted with ABS dont need rear brake compensators.

[2cc 0]

Dixxy,

All Cs have a compensator, with or without ABS.

I wouldn't like to say whether you have broken it or not without looking at it, but it certainly doesn't sound good.

To be fair though, the lever is just operating an internal piston, so it may well be that it can be detached/reattached without problem.

[NickVR6 0]

They are only £50 from GS mate, but due to 2cc's genious we got away with it, JUST!

[Chris VR6nos 0]

THis thread is a bit scarey to new Corrado owners i'm sure but i have to say that apart from the mods i wanted to do like the Nitrous, Aupercharger and the wishbone bushes and the lowered suspension that i paid £40 for, i havent spent any money but for thet odd oil change or breakfluid change when i put the 288mm discs on but none of these things were because things were knackered.

I think VE6 ownership is cheap enough to do on the dole!

 

 

Chris

[Dixxy 0]

I'd love to buy a new one but have been trying to avoid taking the old one off as the bolts are seized and have been completely shreaded... they'd have to be drilled out.

 

How much impact does a brake compensator have? I suppose this should be taken into consideration when lowering the car.

 

I'm tempted to just put it back together and see if its ok... what would indicate this?

[2cc 0]

I haven't got all the techy detail, but basically it varies the amount of fluid pressure applied to the back wheels. The pivot movement of the rear beam is transfered into the compensator by that lever. So when you brake hard (front drops and rear lifts) the rear braking pressure is reduced to help prevent the rears locking up.

 

I'm sure there will be some way of testing it but afraid I don't have that info. No doubt someone here will.

HTH a bit.

[Dixxy 0]

Trying to revive this thread for one last question...

 

Does anyone know how to correctly set up the rear break compensator?

 

My car has been lowered 40mm so i want to set it up correctly as i'm sure it wasn't altered when the car was lowered.

[h100vw 0]

Probably says how to do it in the Bentley. Not 100% but I think I read about measuring the pressure in the line and adjusting the spring tension to change it. Could be talking cobblers though?

 

I have never altered one TBH and I have lowered many a VW. If you lower the front and back by the same amount, then I don't think it'll need doing. If when you brake hard the back is locking up before the front then you need to do something before you end up in casualty :mrgreen:

 

Gavin

[2cc 0]

Sounds about right Gav :)

I think that the compensator should sit at a particular angle to the horizontal (or vertical if you prefer), but I don't know the angle or where the datum line is.

Sure someone will look it up though.

[RW1 0]

Watch the Bentley, its the Teves 02 system. Different, principle is the same but illustrations are different due to design diferences.

 

Full tank of petrol, spare wheel on board and jack (Weight in vehicle).

 

Make sure brakes are fully bled of air. Bouce the car a few times.

 

Pressure gauges on calipers.

 

Apply brake pedal to measure 50 bar on front caliper gauge, back should be 27 - 33 bar.

Again but front to 100 bar, back should be 48 to 54 bar.

 

2 gauges, one circuit at a time. ie. front right/rear left, front left, rear right, order not important but good balance between sides is. It won't balance for the axle, then look at rubber brake hoses, may have internal collapse walls, usually spottable on visual due to bulges or sweating brake fluid on surface.

 

Adjust the pressure regulator to get these figures. Measuring a mechanical datum won't get these figures as it's pressure balance that matters and you don't know what your mechanical datum is in the first instance.

 

 

.

[h100vw 0]

RW1 saves the day again. 8)

 

Now I know we are always on your case RW1 but these pressure gauges, not a Halfords one is it :mrgreen:

 

Looking at the pressures involved, are we measuring clamping force or line pressure?

 

Thanks

Gavin

[RW1 0]

Line pressure. And you will need to be able to bleed out the gauge and coupled pipe after fitting before testing.

 

Chris

[h100vw 0]

Nice one Chris, thanks for that. Not that I am planning on doing this but outside of a VW delaership where would you scource a gauge?

 

Gavin

[2cc 0]

Chris comes to the rescue again.

As I suspected, a simple five minute job suitable for the 'single spanner mechanic' :lol:

[Will 0]

Sorry to revive this thread, but does anyone know where I could get hold of suitable pressure gauges for the job...?

 

Thanks