The Forced Induction VR6 thread

[boost monkey 0]

There's only 0.745kW to 1horsepower, so 250kw would be ~190hp :scratch:

 

Other way around, Mr. Boost monkey! :dorky:

190kw ~= 250hp

 

I'm afraid not, my Scandinavian friend. My 1.8 16v engine is 140hp or 100kW.

 

1 horsepower = 0.745699872 kilowatts from the Google.

[boost monkey 0]

Just read through Shauns build thread and the power / torque graphs are posted on this page - viewtopic.php?f=11&t=27296&start=270

If I read that right the diff between the ATW and ATF power is 65bhp with ATW figure of 336bhp. Isnt 65bhp loss a bit high, mine was only 39bhp? The ATW figure seems about right does it not? All these different dyno's seem to be causing the differences. :shrug:

 

A definitive RR day seems to be the only way to find out how we all perform, would still prefer Stealth though so I can be lazy and get my TC fitted at the same time :lol:

 

65 out of 336 is about 19% which seems abour right to me. 2p.

[dukest 0]

There's only 0.745kW to 1horsepower, so 250kw would be ~190hp :scratch:

 

Other way around, Mr. Boost monkey! :dorky:

190kw ~= 250hp

 

I'm afraid not, my Scandinavian friend. My 1.8 16v engine is 140hp or 100kW.

 

1 horsepower = 0.745699872 kilowatts from the Google.[/quote:1ukgm232]

yes, but you were still wrong the first time oh simian one :)

[coullstar 0]

20% loss the norm? Not sure about March, we often have snow in April up here!!!

[boost monkey 0]

yes, but you were still wrong the first time oh simian one :)

 

 

...Oh yeah :lol: sorry about that, just realised! Too much engineering for one day. Just gimme a banana....

[Kevin Bacon 5]

If I read that right the diff between the ATW and ATF power is 65bhp with ATW figure of 336bhp. Isnt 65bhp loss a bit high, mine was only 39bhp? The ATW figure seems about right does it not? All these different dyno's seem to be causing the differences. :shrug:

 

Transmission losses are calculated on the coast down after the power run and that's where the bhp numbers are often open to error and some 'creativity'. It's why the Americans use wheel hp. There is no correction with that, what the dyno measures is your engine power, plain and simple. Not sure why the rest of the world is so keen on BHP. Probably because it's higher and sells more cars.

 

My trans losses were also 40hp, so it could be because we're using a different final drive to Shaun's.

[boost monkey 0]

Sounds sensible kev. brake power is the maximum an engine can achieve if you ran it alone on a dyno/test cell, regardless of transmission and associated losses.

 

I'm glad my trans losses arent 40hp, else it would only leave me with 7.4 :nuts:

[raddo-dave 0]

i have a head spacer and a triple layer gasket to fit to my car and i am just wondering if this copper gasket sealer will be ok to use with them?http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/V-TECH-COPPER-RTV-SILICONE-GASKET-MAKER-RESISTS-OIL-85g-/250700719521?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item3a5eed65a1

 

Item number: 250700719521

 

thanks in advance

 

dave

[pete_griff 0]

i have a head spacer and a triple layer gasket to fit to my car and i am just wondering if this copper gasket sealer will be ok to use with them?http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/V-TECH-COPPER-RTV-SILICONE-GASKET-MAKER-RESISTS-OIL-85g-/250700719521?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item3a5eed65a1

 

Item number: 250700719521

 

thanks in advance

 

dave

you shouldn't use gasket sealer when it comes to head gaskets.

 

there may be something i don't know when it comes to VRT's...

but i would be very surprised if it was a good idea to be using gasket sealant in that application!

[raddo-dave 0]

ive seen on a few peoples builds when theyve been using a spacer plate that they have used a copper sealer in conjunction with the top and bottom layers from a 3 layer gasket but i am unsure whats the best to use?

[poll250 0]

ive seen on a few peoples builds when theyve been using a spacer plate that they have used a copper sealer in conjunction with the top and bottom layers from a 3 layer gasket but i am unsure whats the best to use?

 

Basically, the Permatex spray on stuff was the only stuff worth using, but they've stopped making it now. Unspent age trying to find some, and in the end just used the spacer plater and 3'layer gasket. I'm sure it'll be fine without sealer.

[ANDREW 30 0]

this may be usefull for anyone thinking of going rotrex, r-tech are selling a vr6 air intake set up from the rotrex charger outlet to the vr6 TB, this will save you having to get loads of silicone pipework/take off's. and not a bad price at £150 plus p&p

 

karl

Any idea's if these are still avaliable and current price as I can't seem to find them on the net!

[daytona600 0]

98 pages! Just a simple question. I need a ball park figure on cost to have a turbo on my VR by a professional. Thanks Kev.

[coullstar 0]

Do a search using the words Stealth and Turbo. Around £4k IIRC.

[daytona600 0]

Thanks, 4K hmm. I love my rado but my wife would go mental if I spent that much...

[ANDREW 30 0]

Thanks, 4K hmm. I love my rado but my wife would go mental if I spent that much...

Easiest way is don't tell her!!!! :lol:

I think most people consider the stealth kit a good and well priced option, maybe a charger will be better suited to your budget thats the route i'm going down.

You won't get the same power as with the turbo kit, but i've seen used charger kits come up from around the £1500+ mark!

[VR6matty 0]

What spark plugs is everyone using on their VR turbos? Had a Bosch one fail on mine the other day during the cold spell, im not 100% sure why but was not in there long, according to Vince these were from the 1.8t TT so should be alright for FI. Thinking of replacing the whole set wondered what the best options are and other peoples findings.

Thanks

Matt

[boost monkey 0]

What spark plugs is everyone using on their VR turbos? Had a Bosch one fail on mine the other day during the cold spell, im not 100% sure why but was not in there long, according to Vince these were from the 1.8t TT so should be alright for FI. Thinking of replacing the whole set wondered what the best options are and other peoples findings.

Thanks

Matt

 

The VR6 doesn't need expensive plugs mate and in fact, they perform better with cheap arse plugs when forced fed 8)

 

NGK BKR7E I'd recommend, couple of quid each from sparkplugs.co.uk

 

 

from a few pages back (use the in topic search)

[VR6matty 0]

Thanks for the quick response, did do a search through topic but was looking for some more recent information, having had pretty cheap Bosch ones in there and issues with those I am reluctant to go and get another set and find myself in the same position another 6 months down the line.

 

Thanks again

Matt

[boost monkey 0]

Kev will probably post again sometime soon and confirm what he's using now no doubt :D

[coullstar 0]

Ive got NGK's in mine but not sure what version. They have been fine for 2kmiles so far. Im working on the car tomorrow so I'll have a look.

[VR6matty 0]

Thanks that would be really good. seems like the NGK's are the way to go from doing a bit more reading, good to hear they hav been reliable on yours also. I don't think I am gonna tempt using Bosch ones again.

 

Thanks again for the info

[coullstar 0]

The VR6 doesn't need expensive plugs mate and in fact, they perform better with cheap arse plugs when forced fed 8)

 

NGK BKR7E I'd recommend, couple of quid each from sparkplugs.co.uk

 

Thats what is in mine.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

If using 1.8t plugs, stick to dealer NGK ones. The pattern bosch ones GSF sell aren't that great.

[VR6matty 0]

Thanks guys, didn't choose the Bosch ones they were put in during turbo time, will get some of these NGKs in there asap and give em a go,

 

Thanks a lot for the advice

 

Matt