bulb connections for headlight switch

[fla 9]

I'm changing the colours on my headlight switch and in an attempt to remove the green paint on the bulb that illuminates the ring the bulb wires have broken off. Great :( . Anyone know where they should be soldered back on (ie which plates in the switch)? Better still which way round should an led go? I've got a 5mm led for the large central illumination but the surrounding ring has a painted green bulb. Not sure if the angle of illumonation of an led will be sufficient to disperse across the transparent ring though.

Oh and its a 94 VR, but i think the light switches are all the same.

 

Thanks

[fla 9]

Dont tell me no-one knows?

[RW1 0]

H.,

 

The ignition illumination lamp is supplied via pin X, 12 volts, the earth is on pin 31 of the switch.

 

The sidelight & head light illumination is on pin 30, +12 volts and when the switch is moved to sidelights/headlights and it exits via pin 56. Note this lamp has a diode allowing flow from pin 30 to pin 56 only.

 

LED shorter lead is usually the -ve but check orientation using a 1.5 volt battery.

 

I may be replacing my switch later this week. So will open up the old one later this week hopefully and photograph the plate connections.

 

C.

 

 

 

.

[fla 9]

RW1, never fail to come up with the goods, good stuff as usual :)

[RW1 0]

Change the headlight switch tonite, just as well, it was on it's last legs with brittle and busted internals and working on one lever only. Good job I've got a box full in the loft.

 

Photographed the switch but it doesn't show up the little lamp wiring as they twist around in parts of the switch where the camera angle is bad.

 

Anyway, checked where the wires end up. As above in my original post, you will need to examine the external connections and where they run to. Each internal connection point for the lamp wire points will have a blob of solder and these are not directly on the other side of the plastic bottom plate where the loom connection pins are. So trace carefully as some connections travel half the length of the base plate.

 

 

.

[Supercharged 2]

I think Daves16v does a repair kit that replaces that broken arm...

 

RW1, any idea why there are so many different switches out there, I've got 4 that are all slighly different and the plastic 'key' is different on 2 of then...

[RW1 0]

Daves16v does a repair kit

 

Cheers, but switch is shot for two reasons, the higher bulb plastic surround was brittle its fallen off since the photos so light "spillage" will occur and the clear plastic ring has melted and deformed.

 

any idea why there are so many different switches out there,

 

Different suppliers for one possibly - but more an improvement to stop the failures, also, the switches work differently such as daylight runing lights, non-dim-dip, dim-dip (UK market). Some perhaps the simpler switch version didn't put as much load on the levers as much as the dim-dip ones. The dim-dip version introduces a more complex sliding switch with more contacts.

[Supercharged 2]

Hmmm... I've got 2 early ones sat here, all the pin numbers match up but the plastic lug/key things don't, safe to remove so it fits the loom plug??

[RW1 0]

From what I see in the wiring diagrams for all UK C's, all wiring is the same. The only change in the switch is an extra pin, 58D for the dim-dip. 58D is a straight out +12 volts.

 

The mechanical interchange in the dash hole is my only doubt. I don't see why not......

 

Others such as the daylight running switch don't interchange. Wiring is different.