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Cold Air induction Kit for the G60

G60 cold Air Induction Kit, Would you buy one for your G60  

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  1. 1. G60 cold Air Induction Kit, Would you buy one for your G60



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Big Cone Air filter, attached to a pipe that connects directly to the G60. (maybe via a sort samco pipe cos of the engine moving.

 

Basically a full kit, Everything needed to remove the airbox, ditch the CC, an fit the kit.

 

Something like the BBM or jabba intake but goes through the CC hole and site in the wheel arch.

 

Any ideas on Costing would be fantastic so i can put the money aside!!

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allready have one coming very soon was looking at inclosing the whole filter in a box though ...

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i guess you could use a box and the K&N panel filter, then just have the box intake through the CC hole.

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i guess you could use a box and the K&N panel filter, then just have the box intake through the CC hole.

 

Isnt this just then the sam as running a tube as a feed to your airbox for much less a cost..............

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Hi all,

 

I have a custom induction kit fitted to my G60 with a mandrel bent custom stainless induction pipe, massive custom K+N element and Jabba heatshield,

 

It does the business...,but may look at relocating it in the wing in the future..,

 

Watch this space, might need my local metal fabricator to help make summat up..,

 

Cheers

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btw guy's the std airbox with cold sir feed is still better than ANY induction kiti have tryed.. my design is workingalong the same lines but with a larger inlet to the charger..

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id have to say that i think that the induction kit provides better response than the air box. ive tried both.2 types of cone filter against the airbox both this time of year to try n keep the intake temps down and in winter. i do ise a v large heat shield with mine though. much bigger than the jabba one. it goes to bonnet edge at top and front n back n instead of a slot cut in it that allows air filter to fiut in mie has a hole about as big as the tube.

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8vg60, wouldnt doing what u did to my airbox be more cost effective than a all out induction kit

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btw guy's the std airbox with cold sir feed is still better than ANY induction kiti have tryed.. my design is workingalong the same lines but with a larger inlet to the charger..

 

the std air box is a cold air feed but seems restricted to me stuck behind that headlight!!

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the std air box is a cold air feed but seems restricted to me stuck behind that headlight!

 

not with a 70mm tube running in to it via the old cc hole :lol: and being drawn in through the brake duct... this i somthing im working on and as i said before the lid of the std box will proberly be an ali repalcement with 76mm inlet to the charger etc...

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Lucky my slats are open under the bumper. I've rigged up some tubing with the aid of wonderful cable-ties. VR6 ones are normally closed, IIRC.

 

And yes, it does make a very noticeable difference. The car is a bit more perky when its hot, and even quicker in the cold than before.

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This is either a good idea or I'm gonna look like a retard again... :crazyeyes:

 

How about using a narrow pipe/pipes containing liquid nitrogen on the inside of the air intake system somewhere ??

 

As most of you already know, liquid nitrogen is extremely cold and I'm sure would cool the intake air very well.

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This is either a good idea or I'm gonna look like a retard again... :crazyeyes:

 

How about using a narrow pipe/pipes containing liquid nitrogen on the inside of the air intake system somewhere ??

 

As most of you already know, liquid nitrogen is extremely cold and I'm sure would cool the intake air very well.

 

and it would ice up very nicely, geting smaller and smaller....

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Lucky my slats are open under the bumper. I've rigged up some tubing with the aid of wonderful cable-ties. VR6 ones are normally closed, IIRC.

 

{wandering ever-so slightly OT...} how come open slats? Did you open/replace them??? Just checked mine and they are as closed as a closed up thing :?

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good work daz! make up a piece that will bolt to the charger, then a silicone hose (cuz of engine movement) then a pipe that drops through the cc hole. no box around mine please.. unless you'd like to make it more of a shroud directing air as i have my front turn signals out for a direct air shot and plan to make a shroud to jam as much of it as possible into the filter :rambo:

 

sure you'd be able to move 10 or 20 units immediately after you release em judging by how much interest this.. and your work in general.. seems to attract.

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{wandering ever-so slightly OT...} how come open slats? Did you open/replace them??? Just checked mine and they are as closed as a closed up thing :?

 

That's how they were when I got the car.

Either its had a wee accident, or a previous owner just replaced them with open G60 vents.

Its still a VR bumper though.

 

Open slatted grill too, so maybe the previous motorway tourer to me wanted to help airflow as much as possible. The car certainly hasn't had cash spared on it from the history it has.

 

But yes, OT now - sorry, my fault.

*Mods self*

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A lesser volume of cold dence air is more effective than a high volume of less dence warm air. A huge cone filetr that is poorly positioned will be less effective than a standerd air box.

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HA! I'd like to see you beat my RAM Air intake! :wink: :lol:

 

Image002.jpg

 

Image005.jpg

 

I did eventually cut it down and routed it thru the brake duct...

Image008.jpg

 

This has since been replaced with a nice big K&N stuck down the CC hole that runs into my charger. Better throttle response, lower, tested temps than the airbox and it cost about $8 US, plus the filter

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the thing to remember is that the tube you use to feed air towards the air filter must be of a larger diameter and should be connected to a funnel or collector in the front which is sealed. If it is not the air will simply go around it. Like all things it will choose the path of least resistance. I used a 4" flexi tube which fills the opening where the Carbon cannister was. This is attached to the brake duct which has been cut in half and no longer feeds the brake. I made a spigot which picks up the original fixings for the CC and holds the flexi in place. I'm not sure of its effectiveness, the charger sucks in far more air than you can 'direct' up the tube especially with a small pulley.

 

As for heat sheilds, I think it is better to worry about what happens to the air after it is compressed, that is when it gets heated up. I have a huge conical filter with no heat shield but the intercooler is so big that even the intake manifold stays cool.

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