settings for wheel alignment/suspension geometry?

[brookescourt 0]

I'm getting my Goodyear F1's fitted on Friday and also a 4 wheel alignment done.

My question is, I have the car set quite low on Koni coilovers. What are the best suspension geometry settings? Should I just get them to set it up as VW reccomend or are there any better settings for handeling, grip etc?

Ideally I want to keep it set for good tyre wear too.

Thanks in advance,

Rob.

[biggrim 0]

I thought the C's only needed 2 wheel alignment? HAve I got it wrong again? Stay tuned and find out, after this short commercial break!

[G60Jet 1]

make sure you have a full tank of gas onboard when you get it done.

 

The Last Suspension setting i have are as follows

 

Camber Front Left and Right 1N & 1N

Thrust setting front left and right 7 & 7

 

I can't read the rest of the settings

 

My car is sitting on H+R Lowering Springs and standard shocks

 

Having just looked at the bently manual set setting seem to make no sense to me and are wrong if anything

 

Now i probably wrong here but if you lower the car dont the Setting figures remain the same, you just need to get it adjusted after you've lowered the Car and then a few thousand miles later after its all settled

[Andi 2,147,483,647]

The Corrado only requires the 2 front wheels aligning.

AFAIK, the rear wheels are fixed and alignment is not possible.

 

VW do perform a full geometry, as I had this done with mine after an accident (and I sneaked it under some warranty work!), and the rear was fine - was just the front that needed a little alteration.

 

Plus, any competant garage should put the appropriate balast in the driver's seat when doing the alignment.

[G60Jet 1]

Does anyone know without a doubt if the geometry setting are different from standard once you lower the car.

 

Obviously lowing the car itself changes the settings, but do you realign to the original settings afterwards?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The rear angles can be adjusted with by shimming the rear hubs if need be, but if the values are way off, this is indicative of a rear or side impact or at best, knackered axle bushes.

 

Stealth always set the front to -0.5 degrees camber and 0 degrees tracking, which always works for me. No tugging to the left and dead ahead self centering remains, aswell decent steering weight.

 

I think VW specify +0.5 or even as much as +1 as standard.

 

Kev

 

Kev

[2cc 0]

My cut on the 2 vs 4 whell alignment question is this. The rears can be adjusted so that they run 'in line' (ie whatever the angular displacement should be) with each other; the front wheels are adjusted for camber/caster/toe with each other; the front and rear wheels have to be 'in line' with each other (you don't want one set crabbing in relation to the others)

[skid 1]

My cut on the 2 vs 4 whell alignment question is this. The rears can be adjusted so that they run 'in line' (ie whatever the angular displacement should be) with each other.

I just fitted my coilovers today with the help of a (Vw tech) and during the same discussion he said that the rear axle monting brackets have slooted holes in them so that rear axle can be "twisted" into line with the front wheels. :shock: :D

Hope that is some help :D

[Corvr6 0]

My Bentley manual arrived today and I can confirm the data in this link is accurate for the VR6 only.It is differant for 4 cylinder engines.MAF and geometry settings

[woody 0]

When 16vG60 fitted new suspension to my car. He mentioned that the standard bolts which VW list and bently to enable to set up for the new suspension height are not used. The upper bolts need to be of an uprated design which allow for more movement when setting up the suspension. John used these parts and had the car set up at the garage and it drives and corners so sweetly now i am amazed.

[Corvr6 0]

The upper bolts need to be of an uprated design which allow for more movement when setting up the suspension.

Bolt part no. N 101 740.01.

The Bentley manual reccomends changing this out if the factory settings cannot be achieved after replacing the suspension.They also reccomend changing the lower bolt if the top one alone is not enough.The differance is the new bolt is thinner allowing more movement.

They don't reccomend adjusting the camber by moving the ball joint in the control arm.

I can't seem to find a "smug smiley" anywhere.The manual does give you a super natural feeling of greatness.30% discount at the moment. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/de ... 15-9180026

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Bentley/Haynes always say not to use the BJ to adjust camber but I've been using that method for years with no adverse affects. Surely the ball joints are adjustable for the sole reason of camber adjustment, otherwise they'd be fixed like MK1 BJs. I would not be happy putting a narrower diameter bolt in the strut, I'd sooner use a camber bolt off a MK1 GTI or one from H&R etc.