How to get head off with ARP studs need serious help

[Bobert healetty 0]

ok i need to get my headgasket done by the end of this week or else i will be without transportation..

 

i have disconnected everything that could possibly be holding this head onto the block and the head absolutely will not budge i have tried prying it hammering it heating it etc etc the head will not move...i can not remove the head studs because there is no way for me to remove them without taking the head off...

 

apparently when the engine was built up they messed with the compression and it raised the compression so much that the shop had to use 2 of the OEM head gasket and shim them to drop the compression low enough to use the supercharger... and it seems as though there is some type or rtv/gasket sealer crap on the head gasket but i dont see why gasket sealer would seize the block onto the head the way it is...i honestly am at my wits end with this car i have no idea how to get this head off i have tried everything is there anything i am missing? i mean when im prying up on the head it ends up moving the entire engine and pulling on the engine mounts but the head will not budge at all

 

i have disconnected the exhuast manifold from the down pipe disconnected all the coolant hoses going to the engine taken off the alternator, timing cover, metal coolant hose that goes to the flange on the side of the head etc etc everything is off and the head wont move i really need some help

[h100vw 0]

What about spinning the engine over on the starter and hoping it lifts the head off with the compression?

 

What engine is it, G60?

[Bobert healetty 0]

yes g60

[gaz the geezer 0]

what is your location bobert ?

[Bobert healetty 0]

but if the headgasket is blown how will the cylinders hold compression? i dont think it will give enough compression to pop the head off because i have pried this thing soo hard it felt like my arms were going to snap in half i have had about 5 people try to get this head off and to no avail

[Bobert healetty 0]

what is your location bobert ?

 

i am in the US

[lottysvdub 0]

sorry for my ignorance but is your head held on with nuts on the studs ? , as usualy you would have head bolts to hold the head down which when removed would allow the head to come off , any way some thing you could try is to get the engine to a condition were you could turn the engine over using the ignition key , poor some engine oil down the spark plug holes and put the plugs back in , dont put to much oil in as you could cause damage to the engine , when you have done this make sure you have all the head nuts / bolts loose or off then spin the engine over . this will usualy lift off the most stubbon heads , like ive said before only use small amounts of oil and make sure the plugs go back in , the theory is that head bolt s off , oil in chambers increase compression , when spun over the head should lift off , give this a go and let us know how you get on . :onfire:

[gaz the geezer 0]

am in the US

....i`ll just nip over then :) , have you got a decent enough load bearing beam in the roof of your garage to sling a rope or chain over ?

[Bobert healetty 0]

it has head studs and the nuts that hold the head down on the studs have been removed. the cylinders already have alot of oil and coolant inside of them due to the blown head gasket and the blown oil seals in the charger which let alot of oil inside the engine..which caused the head gasket to blow im afraid if i hook everything back up and turn her over with the coolant and the oil in the cylinders it will hydralock the engine which i dont want to happen which is why i was trying to remove the head so i could clean out the cylinders and replace the head gasket then clean out the intercooler etc etc...

[Bobert healetty 0]

i do not have a garage and the only garage i have access to is my buddies garage but the car is immobilized so i cant get the car to his house...and he doesnt even have any support beams in his garage either so that wouldnt work...we thought about that all ready

[gaz the geezer 0]

is it possible to remove the studs holding the head using the 2 nuts principle ?

[Bobert healetty 0]

no i have tried that but there is no where near enough room ...i cant even get a wrench down in there

[gaz the geezer 0]

will it be possible to purchase some replacement studs bobert ? what i`m going to sugest will require welding a nut to the stud

[lottysvdub 0]

ok if you get the engine back in to a state were you could spin it over leave the plugs out and spin it aver this will blow out all the crap from inside the cylinders , you dont need the manifolds back on so some of the crud will come out of the inlet manifold , the rest will come out the plug holes , take care as it will come out with some force , when you dont have any crop or vapor coming out the plug holes then drop some clean oil through the plug holes ,pop the plugs back in and spin the engine over and im sure this will move the head , trust me ive been doing this fot 20 years , go on buddy give it a go . :doc:

[Bobert healetty 0]

ok i will try to do that as soon as possible i need to purchase a new rotor because my pry bar slipped and nailed the distributor rotor and cracked it up so once i get a new rotor i will put the timing belt back on and turn over the engine

 

what are the minimum components i need to install to turn the engine over? do i need to hook all the coolant hoses back up and all the sensors and all the crap thats attached to the throttle body etc etc?? please let me know what i need to put back together to rotate the engine and get some compression

[gaz the geezer 0]

i wouldnt worry about hoses, you might well have to reconnect a few of the sensor wires if they inhibite the starter motor, i`d put on the bare minimum and see how you go. despite the cracked distributor, i take it the engine could be turned over ok ? after all, you dont really want it to start anyhow, all you need is the motive force of the pistons with a bit of oil to "hydraulic" the head off, it`s very important not to put too much oil in in case it causes any lasting damage but it should work, start with a small amount and see how you go, i take it the studs are a tight fit with the drillings in the head bobert ?

[Bobert healetty 0]

yes theres is absolutely no clearence between the studs and the head drillings that is noticeable to the naked eye to be perfectly honest it kinda looks like the studs were pressed into the head but i dont see how thats possible...but it does look that way...anyways i will try what you suggest and i hope to christ it comes off because im becoming desperate

[s.g 0]

have you any photo's just so we have a clear picture of what we are looking at

[Bobert healetty 0]

i can try to get photos but i dont have any at the moment i have a camera but for some reason it does not like to load pictures onto my computer i dont know whats up with it

[gaz the geezer 0]

i have a camera but for some reason it does not like to load pictures onto my computer i dont know whats up with it

 

have you tried throwing the camera about ? i know it wont help but boy is it satisfiying :lol:

[lottysvdub 0]

sorry ive not got back to you sooner , just put the timming belt back on , and leave everything else of , you shouldnt need to even put the rotor arm and cap back on , just the basics no manifolds or hoses , no sensor wires and no fuel lines , i wound suggest poping the head nuts back on finger tight to stop the head liffting so much it damages the cambelt . the oil you put down the chambers will increase the compression enough to raise the head off , try a little oil to start and if not successfull increase the amount of oil , turn the engine over by hand before using the key if the engine locks theres too much oil , just pop out the plugs and spin it over a couple of times to clear the excess oil . good luck im sure it wont take you long to move it and let us know how you get on :usa by the way take care when doing this as its quite messy :splat:

[LowG 0]

i can not remove the head studs because there is no way for me to remove them without taking the head off...

 

 

Dont your ARP's have the allen hole on top of them? It will be kinda hard to remove the head without removing the studs off as they keep the head very tight, when you are hitting the head back-front-side to side the studs are taking out most of the impact. The arp's should be hand tight adjusted on the block when they are assembled unless they were loctited in.

I would say get a big hammer and a piece of wood and lay it on the head, hit it upwards, switch sides time to time untill it lossens. If that dosent work fins a way to remove your arp's.

 

good luck

[Bobert healetty 0]

no the arp studs do not have allen holes or torx holes on the top of them they are flat..i tried to take them out by hand but i dont understand how that would work .. i have tried hammers and blocks of would..ive tried prying on all the corners etc etc nothing has worked so im going to slap the timing belt back on then rotate the engine im hoping this will pop the head off i appreciate all of your guy's help if you have anymore suggestions that would be great..ill let you know how it goes i wont be able to do it today but maybe tomorrow

[steveo29 0]

ive seen some people chain up the head and use an engine crane to put some force on it, youd need to make sure its chained in a way that lets it lift nice n straight

 

sounds like your going to have some issues to put right if they used 2 gaskets

[Bobert healetty 0]

well they punched the block to a 2.0L got custom forged pistons increased bore and left the stroke stock...so they raised the compression quite a bit and it was pinging really bad with the supercharger installed so they shimmed two head gaskets together to lower the compression enough to stop the pinking with the supercharger installed....