G60 timing

[2_Door_fun 0]

Hi all.

 

used the search to great affect. Just double checking thats all.

Fitted a new timing belt n tensioner yesterday. I set the cam sprocket with the two dots against the top of the cylinder head. Crank set fine also. The previous owner had marked these points with red paint. Also he marked the Dizzy sprocket with red paint. I removed the cap from the dizzy and at the 11 oclock position was a notch. Is this No1 cylinder. If so his red mark on the pulley was about 1-2 teeth out?

 

I set the sprocket so the rotor arm is facing the notch. Have I set it correct. Just want to check befor I go bolting on a new water pum,p n pulley wheels ect.

[Riley 0]

the 2 cam pulley dots line up with a line on the backing plate (as pic) or...theres a dot on the back of the pulley that lines up with the edge of the cylinder head like you say. :)

 

 

crank pulley:

 

best to check the above at the flywheel end too:replace crank bolt with one from a mk1 gti (dx engine) if you havent already,you need the washer too (i have part numbers).

 

and yep,rotor pointing at the notch(no. 1)

 

 

Neil.

[2_Door_fun 0]

Thanks bud.

 

Much appreciated. I thought the dizzy would point at the notch. The previous owner has the Dizzy Spocket 2 teeth out. Maybe due to the cars vac system and ecu line being plumbed wrong. Soon sought that out. Got a new inlet manifold arriving tomorrow. The brass nipples for the ecu line are snapped off. So the vac line is plumbed into the Brake Vac unit!!!!

[Riley 0]

no probs m8 8)

 

wow,some weird plumbing going on there!

 

the ecu line runs to the throttle body/top nipple.the lower one on the throttle body is for the carbon cannister.

and the brake servo line is for the mfa mpg reading :shock:

 

edit:ps:the intermediate shaft(dizzy timing) is a right barsteward to get right,you can just compensate by turning the dizzy which is probably stuck solid :lol: love these corrado's eh..

 

hope you sort it m8.

Neil.

[2_Door_fun 0]

Hi Mt.

 

here ya go. Take alook

 

I have a new manifold on the way. You gota love Ebay.

 

the nipples have been snapped off and plugged with wood screws

 

So I priced up the butterfly block at the dealers. I would need a new one and 2 gaskets....Gaskets were £2 each and the 1" thick by 4" square block was.....£1157+vat :shock: Oh and 1 had never been orderd...Ever.

 

So I went on Ebay....and got one...?

 

So the mfa pipe actually runs to the servo? So i leave that conected?

 

Cheers

[g60bv 0]

this is such a good thread, should be sticky'ed.

[2_Door_fun 0]

Well my car runs. Started her up yesterday. Such a relief that all my belt n stuff was fine. She seems to be suffering from a sticky pedal or throttle lever. Revs on startup then drops back to 1000 rpm. just touch the pedal and she settles at 750 - 850 rpm. I had to replace the throttle plate due to naff plumbing and broken off Vac nipples. Answers anybody???

[Henny 0]

new throttle cable... they're a bit prone to it to be honest... 8)

[2_Door_fun 0]

new throttle cable... they're a bit prone to it to be honest... 8)

 

Thankyou Henny I shall be mostly out today getting a new cable.

[kongo127 0]

Hi guys! I´m in big trouble for sure...

Yesterday my crank pulley belt got lost because its bolt broke while i was driving on the motorway!

The car died instantly without any bumps, at the first time i thought that the fuel pump was KO, but no.

This afternoon i´ll be replacing timing belt and setting up the timing properly (it´s my first time by myself).

I just hope the engine is healthy, without any damage.

The pistons are graved, is there any chance that they could hitted the valves and damaged them by their stroke?

All engine pulleys are out of position right now.

Any recomendations for this kind of job?

How can i set up the pulleys properly without damaging any parts?

 

Help ASAP!

[Henny 0]

G60 engines ARE interference engines, so there IS a possiblity that the valves have met pistons... :(

 

Best bet is to stick on a new belt and new pulley bolt, time it all up again and then turn it over by hand without the sparkplugs in to check for resistance anywhere... Then stick the plugs back in and see if it runs... you could well have been lucky... 8)

 

As for timing order, Remove ALL sparkplugs. Put a screwdriver down spark plug hole 1 to find out where the pistons are in their stroke. Turn the engine so that they're all around halfway through their stroke. Then time up the cam to roughly the right place, set the intermediate shaft, and then do the crank turning it so that number1 cylinder only travels UP in it's movement (ie, 2 and 3 DON'T go up) if you have to turn the crank backwards to do this, go past TDC and then turn it the normal way to time it up... 8)

[kongo127 0]

Cheers Henny! :)

I´m about to fit the crank bolt right now.

I´ll post in a couple of minutes...

[flusted 0]

Hope all is ok for ya mate

[kongo127 0]

I´m done! :D

 

She´s working fine! With the same stable idle! 8)

 

It was such a pain to remove the other part from the broken bolt from the crankshaft! :shock:

 

Being an interference engine, i wonder if the engine got damaged inside...

 

Should i notice anything if it´s damage?

 

Which signs could tell me that?

 

One more question...

 

Does the crankshaft bolt needs glue on its thread? I didn´t put any, because i cannot find it around here (i´m on holidays).

 

The crank pulley is slightly wobbling, is this the fact that made the bolt brake?

 

Thank you very much for your help guys!

 

For sure, the best forum in the world! 8)

 

Happy holidays for everyone!

[kongo127 0]

Should i be worried? :oops:

 

Maybe a compression test can tell me if everyting is ok? :wink:

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Crank pulley should NOT wobble kongo,check that you did'nt put the pulley/damper on the wrong part of the crankshaft sprocket,there's a little raised dimple on the toothed sprocket that goes into a hole drilled into the crankshaft pulley.

As for the crankshaft bolt did you re-use the G60 original bolt? if yes i would highly recommend puttin some strong locktite on the bolt or get the non-strech type bolt and use that instead.

[Henny 0]

compression test will tell you if you bent valves as if they were hit by the pistons, they'll have damaged the stems and won't seal properly anymore...

 

As VEDUBBED says, the pulleys should NOT wobble... if they do, then they need taking off and inspecting to find out why they are, and replacing if buckled...

[kongo127 0]

OK!

 

I´ll do a compression test next week, i´m worried about my C...

 

For a final question, how do you bolt up properly the crank pulley?

 

Even with both wheel on the floor and gear engaged, the engine turns, which makes dificult to do it.

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Try jamming a large flat-bladed screwdriver inside the timing aperture on the gearbox's bell housing,failing that remove the stater motor and jam the screwdriver in the flywheel's ring gear.

[g60bv 0]

what about putting it in gear and a friend on the brakes. .?.

[Supercharged 2]

g60bv, yeah, 5th gear and hard on the brakes...

[kongo127 0]

Alright!

 

Will try that! :)

[Henny 0]

yup, 5th and mate pushing all their weight on the brakes worked for me... ;)

[vdubCorrado 0]

not sure of this interference but i assume it's what here in the states referred to as low tolerance engines... and usually low tolerance engines are engines like hondas that are high compression... the G60's are low compression and have crown topped pistons which leaves you with a rather good chance you are one fo the lucky ones who get away with snapping a timing belt and have it not cause any damage...

 

but def. do a compression test...

 

you could also attempt to hold the crank still on the engine with the cam bolt... just mark the belt and the pulley for the cam to make sure the belt doesn't jump as a safety precaution... honestly i've never seen it happen yet so that's another option...

 

and uh sick of that Jet interior yet? cause i still know a kid for the states who would want to buy it (i.e. me haha) :D