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Spykee

HELP, G60 Majorly Overfuelling

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right.... heres an update!

 

i have replaced the blue temp sensor and have now changed teh vac hose to the ECU but im now getting a slightly erratic idle where it revs up to 2k rpm after barely spluttering on tunrover once started and then drops back down to normal idle speed. if i then rev the car or am driving it when i dip the clutch and come to a standstil the engine stutters and the revs drop down to barely 500rpm and then pick back up to normal idle speed again!

 

i have also adjusted the CO potentiometer and thats made the car a bit smoother but its still holding back on acceleration.

 

i have had it on the gas analyser as well and it has now flown through the emissions test at 0.3

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I have that same prob mate with the idle. Drops to 500rpm ish and then back up to rest around 800-900rpm. So why its doing that i also would like to know. Jabba have adjusted the CO pot for me but its still doing it

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i spoke to my mate and he has said that he has checked the lambda as well and thats all ok........

 

still miffed :?

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bugger,was gonna suggest the lambda wiring again with you saying it pops on overun...deffo overfueling then.

 

wonder if the wiring to the throttle body microswitches is fecked?

edit:or just the fuel cut off switch at the back.

worth checking out?

 

also,is the air screw on the back of the throttle body still there? sounds like it is,but maybe the seal is worn (wouldn't cause overfuelling i dont think,but a dodgy idle?)

 

id check as much as you can without spending any cash and then as a final straw have it all set up (timing/co pot/air screw) by someone who really knows how,before getting it down to darren.

 

neil.

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Riley,

 

the trouble is i have to drive this thing to work and back every day, which is a 30 mile round trip so as you can imagine im getting pretty pi**ed off with it now and just want it sorted......

 

i spoke to my dad, who has rebuilt a few cars in his time and he rekons its that my mate hasnt set up the timing properly.

 

the reason hes saying this is because the exhaust from 3000 rpm and less is giving off a continuous 'pop pop.....pop......pop pop pop......pop pop' in whatever gear the car is in which is a key symptom of a mis fire...

 

i dunno though, all i can say is ive had a guts full now! :(

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just re-read the thread...

 

i have also spotted a vac pipe that is totally broken off the front left hand side of the Inlet Manifold as well so im sure that cant be helping!

 

did you replace this pipe m8? it runs from the fuel pressure regulator,and you are correct in saying that it wont help!

 

deffo check the basics if you can? and know how?

cam/ignition timing?

throttle body switches?

and double check lambda wiring and the lambda itself.

unplug the bts and see if the idle drops or raises?

 

not sure what else to suggest really as im still learning bits about these g60 things me self.i can manage setting the timing and checking a few things over mentioned above no probs.

 

neil.

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just re-read the thread...

 

i have also spotted a vac pipe that is totally broken off the front left hand side of the Inlet Manifold as well so im sure that cant be helping!

 

did you replace this pipe m8? it runs from the fuel pressure regulator,and you are correct in saying that it wont help!

 

deffo check the basics if you can? and know how?

cam/ignition timing?

throttle body switches?

and double check lambda wiring and the lambda itself.

unplug the bts and see if the idle drops or raises?

 

not sure what else to suggest really as im still learning bits about these g60 things me self.i can manage setting the timing and checking a few things over mentioned above no probs.

 

neil.

 

yeh i replaced that last week and its only since then i have the idle probs! :roll:

 

im not exactly an expert at checking the stuff myself tbh! im alright with some stuff and have looked at the timing myself checking its at tdc etc but then again the dizzy has been moved about recently but my mate has set it up since so it should be ok?

 

lambda = ok

TB switches...... no idea where to look for those! im guessing somewhere on the TB? :lol:

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ahh,have you replaced the pipe with a piece the same length and diameter internally?

 

id have the ignition (dizzy) timing checked by a g60 guru tbh,there is a procedure to it,and if its done incorrectly the timing can end up miles out as it tries to correct itself.

 

as for the tb switches,yep on the tb :D

if you unplug the connecter on the back/underneath of the tb,throw a test meter on the pins (in continuity mode)

 

i think one switch should be open/closed with activation and one the other way round - closed/open with activation.

 

afaik.

neil.

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yer a timing Guru sounds like a plan to me!

 

prob gonna give Darren a call tomorrow and see when i can get the car down to him to get it sorted........ dunno if there is anyone closer or that i could trust as much?

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i did replace the vac hose with one that was 1m long and 3.4mm diameter...... thats what the VW parts guy said it was anyway and he does know his stuff cos he has a G40!

 

heres a pic of how knackered the vac hose was on the TB end!

 

01062006276.jpg

 

:shock:

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Your catalisator is dead because your car was over fueling all this time.

The lambda is about dead, or you´re having harness issues to the ECU.

Anyway this means that the ECU has no lambda reading, and so, enters in safe-mode to prevent the engine to run lean.

Dead catalisators rattle, they become very noisy...

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Your catalisator is dead because your car was over fueling all this time.

The lambda is about dead, or you´re having harness issues to the ECU.

Anyway this means that the ECU has no lambda reading, and so, enters in safe-mode to prevent the engine to run lean.

Dead catalisators rattle, they become very noisy...

 

the lambda is working cos i have had it tested and the cat was dead long before this problem reared its head cos i managed to bottom the car out on a massive speed bump, which put a nice dent in the heatshield and the cat rattled from there on! its just gradually got worse!

 

the car definately isnt in safe mode as it does pull to a point but isnt smooth with it running plus i wouldnt get the misfiring with the exhaust popping if it was just in safe mode.

 

what makes you think the ecu is in safe mode and that there is a potential problem with the harness? :?

 

im not getting you.......

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yer a timing Guru sounds like a plan to me!

 

prob gonna give Darren a call tomorrow and see when i can get the car down to him to get it sorted........ dunno if there is anyone closer or that i could trust as much?

 

i dont know if im any closer to you than you are to darren? but id set the ignition timing for you no probs if it was a viable option for ya.

 

i think its worth,double checking the cam timing (will probably be fine) then checking ignition timing and co pot/air screw settings.and then go from there...

 

i know you say the lambda is fine,but have you checked the voltages at the signal wire while its running? should fluctuate in between 0.1v-0.9v iirc.

 

Neil.

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yer a timing Guru sounds like a plan to me!

 

prob gonna give Darren a call tomorrow and see when i can get the car down to him to get it sorted........ dunno if there is anyone closer or that i could trust as much?

 

i dont know if im any closer to you than you are to darren? but id set the ignition timing for you no probs if it was a viable option for ya.

 

i think its worth,double checking the cam timing (will probably be fine) then checking ignition timing and co pot/air screw settings.and then go from there...

 

i know you say the lambda is fine,but have you checked the voltages at the signal wire while its running? should fluctuate in between 0.1v-0.9v iirc.

 

Neil.

 

thanks for the offer mate! :)

 

ive given up on it now though as i have already spent more time than i can realistically manage on it anyway so i have booked it in with darren today to get the pro's to look at it.

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have you tried running with the lamda probe disconnected (safe mode) just to eliminate the probe and its wiring?

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Spykee, Don´t get me wrong.

We all want to help you out on this one...

But how can you be so sure the lamda probe is ok? Is it brand new?

Otherwise you´ll need to read it´s output voltage with a rich and a lean mixture and compare.

Atmosferic engines should have around 0.5volt at lambda output.

Turbo/charged engines should have around 0.8volt which means a more richer mixture.

Do you notice any difference when you plug/unplug the lambda?

What about doing the same to the CO pot?

Please keep posting! :)

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the lambda isnt new but my mate has had a few small tests done on it with a basic diagnostic system and he says that the lambda is working ok...... im just going on what he is saying though!

 

i think my post replying to you was a bit out of context Kongo, sorry about that. i think i had another day of swearing at the damn car and was fed up so couldnt be bothered to think about it any further! :oops:

 

anyhow, as i have said its booked in with Darren at G-Werks now so im just going to get them to sort it out.

 

i will let you all know whats going on once i have had it looked at. thanks for all your help so far everyone, its much appreciated :)

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That´s ok mate! :)

 

We´re here just to help!

 

I´m pretty sure that Darren will fix you car with his eyes closed!

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