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Slim. I'm certainly impressed by the job, i don't think you'll better Volkskraft for service and quality work, not without going to the ends of the earth :-) They are passionate about what they do and that really matters to me and it shows in their work. Your welcome to see the final job in the flesh, I'm going to try and get to some of those local lincstorque meetings too, don't know if you've heard of it?

 

Philuk, cheers! my post whore'ing in the chat room work then ;-)

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No i've not heard of those meets but would be interested in going once the rado's back on the road. Do you know when and where the next is?

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The forum is http://www.lincstorque.com/ and they have a weekly mini meet then loads throughout the year with various drives and events. They are a friendly bunch covering all marks but not chavvy boy racers, anything from hardcore rice to retro US stuff and even a white corrado there. I've not made it to a meet yet, which is bad as they meet 5mins walk from me.

 

There is also Fl4tlanders, they meet last sunday every month, I've never been either. That is VAG, particually air cooled. http://www.fl4tlanders.com/ pretty sure the volkskraft guys attend.

 

Now my car is working and more complete I am going to try and get to some meets.

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8) :clap: another shiney blue one :grin: looks very nice mate

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Just completed a weeks stay in the Garage for some work and upgrades:

 

  • New Chains & Tensioners[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • New Clutch[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • Installed 263 Schimmel Cams[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • New gearbox mount[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • Powerflex rear beam bushes[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • VW Inner wishbone bushes & TT outers[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • 280mm rear conversion form the forum Group Buy[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • 312mm Conversion with matching grooved/cross drilled discs to the 280s (euro spec)[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • Goodridge hoses all round, new copper hoses @ rear[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • Pads: Ferodo DS2500 fronts and Pagid FR Rears[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • DOT 5.1 Fluid[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • Stone chips removed from my sub year old paint :nuts: [/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • Raised the suspension up a little for more travel[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • Rounded off with a 4 wheel laser alignment[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]

Notes on the work:

Top tensioner shows little or no wear, lower shows a little. On inspection of cam followers they apparently show no wear at all. Mechanic was very complementry about the internal condition of the engine from what he saw. Glad to know the very regular oil changes are worth it. Clutch was nearly on the rivets though and has some stress fractures visible too.

 

Even without the remap (coming soon) the cams have made a huge difference I am amazed 8) The combination of the lift, new bushes and the alignment have totally transformed the car. It never drove this well before even nearly 8 years ago. Still bedding the brakes in but they are feeling outstanding for an economical upgrade.

 

On my first drive I was actually shouting an screaming with excitement! right up until it broke down (loose alternator connection) Also had a minor coolant leak from the rad temp sensor, but my god is it fun. Shame I can't drive econmically any more and I don't think my tyres will last too long either! :bonk:

 

Parts used:

 

VW (all + vat and pre any discounts)

Timing Chain 021 109 465 B 1 36.99

Timing Chain 021 109 503 A 1 36.99

Pin 021 109 511 1 10.10

Slide Rail 021 109 513 1 8.86

Slide Rail 021 109 469 1 3.40

Chain Tensioner M AAA 217 001>> 021 109 509 E 1 7.94

Chain Tensioner 021 109 467 1 23.39

Chain Tensioner M AAA 217 001>> 021 109 507 B 1 26.30

Bolts N905 350 01 2 0.15

Lower Pin 021 109 471 1 1.60

Mid Pin 021 109 515 A 1 6.00

Hex Bolt N010 272 4 1 0.30

Hex Bolt N010 352 10 1 0.70

 

Retaining Spring 012 141 741 1 0.51

Clutch operating Lever 02J 141 719 B 1 14.09

Ball Pin 02A 141 777 B 1 2.94

Clutch Kit 021 198 141 AX 1 138.81

Oil Seal 085 311 113 1 5.72

Round Seal N903 543 01 1 2.00

Spline socket head bolts N903 554 04 3 0.30

Grease for clutch plate G 000 100 1 5.00

 

Other bits (+ Vat)

DS2500 312mm Pads FCP590 1 118

Pagid Rear Pads 1 35

VW Front Inner bush 357 407 182 2 5.57

Audi TT 3.2 rear wishbone bush 8N0 407 181 B 2 15

Powerflex Rear Set 1 39.52

DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid

VHT Paint

Braided Goodridge Hoses (goof vr6)

Bolts, washers and schnorr locking rings for the 312 conversion

 

Big thanks to Trident Racing Supplies for the bolts; Badger5 for pads; Stealth for Hoses & Powerflex bushes; VW for taking pity on my shopping list and giving me good discount; and most of all Volkskraft for getting it all done :notworthy:

 

I'd been collecting bits for a while in group buys and bargins so I think at about £2500 inc labour and vat for all the above it wasn't too bad.

 

Next up:

  • Remap[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • Must finish ICE and handsfree[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]
  • Put the Storm Badge on, I'm sooo lazy[/*:m:2a3kkfmc]

 

Then I'm done.

 

Maybe :norty:

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Long time since updating my thread, mainly because I've just be doing lots of driving and no work on it, up until the other day:

 

New Front Tyres, Conti Sport Contact 3

Ball Joints

Track Rod ends

Front Wheel Bearings

Oil Change Service

MOT

Laser Alignment check 3 times in two weeks

 

Planning on rack replacement and rear bearings (play after 10k!) in the new year. Couple of MOT advisories: Exhaust bracket; small hole in exhaust and a slightly corroded brake pipe somewhere apparently.

 

Keep going like this the car will be new :lol:

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:lol: seems a bit that way. Rack and column next then it just leaves the engine as largely untouch bar chains/clutch. Then it'll be time to start again I should think :shock:

 

I don't know how we've never spotted each other, I'd be very intested in seeing the work you've done on yours, engine sounds like fun :norty:

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Been a long time since I've updated my build thread, just been looking at just how good it looked all fresh!... Since the respray/rebuild I've cranked the mileage upto 159k thrown in a few track days and quite a few rough winters. Sadly the respray hasn't lasted too well, few dings from other peoples car doors plus rough roads around here and high speed track time took a toll on the wheel arches also a fault with the paint work on the bonnet surfaced 4 years on causing a crazing on the top coat.

 

Recently I damaged 2nd gear, ABS failed and finally the factory exhaust gave up... to be fair it had all served well. Having recently put a deposit on a 2010 S3 (it was fun to drive, just left me a bit cold), on collection day I just couldn't go through with the purchase. I still really love the Storm and knew it would be left to rot as I'd be too busy and without need to do anything about it.

 

So with the help of some bits from DubPower and lilfuzzer I've got the Storm MOT'd again.

 

This summer I intend to respray (don't know where) again and do something with the engine, possibly retrim too. I think I want to stick with the VR6, wouldn't mind a little more power, though I have a quick toy also... perhaps I should talk to Stealth. I can't see me ever letting the car go and I apreciate anything I spend I know I'll never get back but the cost to run as a daily is largely insignificant compared the depreciation I would suffer on a modern Eurobox.

 

I will be visiting here as frequently as possible to keep my eye out for nice bits that could be of use :-) Any recommendations on places to respray welcome, local to me (Lincoln/Nottingham) ideal, but not adverse to travelling for the right job.

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It's been some time since my last post about my Storm so here is an update!

 

My Storm has barely turned a wheel in recent years, after a few minor issues with it and a somewhat hectic life its only moved as I have moved house a few times. My previous restoration hasn't lasted, while it runs very well and is solid, the paintwork is an absolute mess to the point you can peel it. Lesson learned about who you let near your car to prep and spray it!

 

Now I'm fortunate to have the space to embark on restoration again and with the help of a friend we've dismantled the car in the region of 50 hours.

 

After a debate of dipping the shell and since inspecting further I've elected not to go down the dipping route. The restoration will be far more comprehensive than last time and it will be close to as good as new but never concourse, I just don't do garage queens... Cars are to drive and enjoy :-)

 

Spec wise, pretty much as before when I was happy with it. I don't need more power and I won't be taking this one on the track.

 

I'm sure everyone has seen plenty of dismantled Corrado pics, but will add a few for the record :-)

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I've now had a meeting with the company who are doing the body work and pretty much decided that dipping the shell is actually for the best. In terms of cost, the dipping isn't going to add a huge percentage, it does remove some labour for them in some ways but adds in others. Ultimately not dipping leaves a few concerns about longevity of certain areas, particularly where repairs are needed between inner and outer rear arches and under the scuttle panel. My main concern and reluctance was the effort required by me to remove the final bits from the shell and put them back! but will have to man up on that front!

 

Now feel like I've tripled the budget and timescale, but will have a better than new car that will probably last longer than the original :-)

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Very slow progress at the moment however, I have taken delivery of some panels... Both rear quarters, doors, repair panel for A pillar.

 

While you are here... Anyone know how to remove the boot latch surround so it goes back on without drilling out?

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Very slow progress at the moment however, I have taken delivery of some panels... Both rear quarters, doors, repair panel for A pillar.

 

While you are here... Anyone know how to remove the boot latch surround so it goes back on without drilling out?

 

Push the centre pins out of the main fixings, don't lose them, then pop the fixing out

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Been a long time but finally a milestone reached and my shell was collected to be baked and dipped!  I've gone to ridiculous lengths to ensure that the final finish is as close to factory as possible.  From chemical peeling factory body stickers, making templates for sound deadening, tracing the factory writing on the shell and 1000's of detailed pictures and measurements for pretty much everything 🙂.  I don't intend to use the factory type underseal as I'll opt for one of the modern better performing products like Gator.  

The baking and stripping process takes about a month.  Then the welding through to final spray will be somewhere around the 4 month mark.  I have new rear quarters, new doors and new repair panels that run A pillar to sill.  There doesn't seem to be any horror rust at the moment but replacing the panels seemed to be most cost effective at the time (purchased with a black friday code would you believe - couple of years ago now!)

While the shell is away I'll be powder coating everything that needs it and get the loom tested, cleaned and re-wrapped.

Biggest decision I need to make is the engine, I've obtained a Stealth built engine from another Storm which has a Rotrex charger and ODB2 ECU.  I've also got a Schrick Manifold (Currently ODB1).  The current engine runs fine  but now is the time to rebuild it if using it.  Most likely route I'll take is to make the Rotrex'd engine look good and then at a later date rebuild the factory engine.  I've no issue modifying the car - but it all will be reversible. 

I expect this build will take years given how long it has taken me to get to this point.  I've been collecting parts for 15 years and have 1000's of new items and plenty of spares... I doubt I've got everything I need either.

Hopefully I'll be getting plenty of pictures up of the process...

PXL_20201021_084114751.jpg

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4 hours ago, Storm Warning said:

I often wonder wtf I have done!

Can't wait for the paint pics, seen plenty and indeed have had my own corrado resprayed but not like that, not seen many bare shell!

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