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samg60

1.8t black smoke - now fixed with stealth RR graph

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right then have spoken to Vince and he said all the sensors appear to be fine, did think

that the car was hitting overboost a lot and that the max air temp it had reached 120 was

dangerous however this was likely to have been when it was mapped on the rollers,

however must keep an eye on it, have removed the boost controller thingy

(thing with two wires to see if that helps at all) but really need to get the car

to vince and thats miles away so i guess I need to get it transported there.

bloody hell am thinking I may knock fast cars on the head, first a glader killed then a lysholm and now

a 20v that doesnt work, cant get much worse, and the car worked fine for thr first two days I had it.

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well would you know it, took a dodgy headlight wiring loom off the car and its running fine, gonna take it vince anyway as he says the car is overboosting slightly, cant belive it but the car is now running like a dream, not counting my chickens just yet by looking good

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When you took the loom off the battery connectors, did you do them up tighter. Maybe there was a high resistance earth causing the problem. The ECU not seeing full battery voltage.

What was up with the Headlight loom?

 

Gavin

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not sure what was up with the headlight loom but it didnt work anyway as it stopped full beam working, I am sure there was a short somehwre with it. It was a trimsport headlight loom

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sounds like you were getting earth leakage through the headlight loom, but I would have thought that would only be the case when you actually had the lights on though?

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not sure what was up with the headlight loom but it didnt work anyway as it stopped full beam working, I am sure there was a short somehwre with it. It was a trimsport headlight loom

 

I asked because I fitted it and the alarm for Lee. There is next to nothing in them, so fixing it would be easy. Did you look at it at all, the lights are utter pants without one fitted.

 

The relays and fuses are about the only things that give up.

 

Gavin

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Hi Gavin looked like the relays have given up the ghost, I may reinstall it after the car comes back from stealth, I think it was somehow causing a short, when I bought the car the headlights just wouldnt work at all, i.e. Dip worked but full beam basically shut the lights off, I didnt check that the wiring was correct or anything, just removed it, I will try and get a couple of fresh relays, can you let me know where I order them is it simply Maplins, or an RS catalogue or are they VW parts.

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They are just common or garden 40A relays. I got my stuff from vehicle wiring products in ilkeston.

 

R40B is their code for the relay I used. What I started doing with the relays was taking the lids off and sealing them to the bases with silicon, this stops the water ingress from happening.

 

With the main beam relay not working the only lights visible would be the sidelights.

 

Gavin

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Hi Cai, its been up and running all weekend and it absolutley flies (ask Ben) dropped the oil as it smelt of petrol.

whatever the wiring loom / bad earth was doing it was bad as the car starts on teh button now and has no black smoke.

Taking to Vince to get the map slightly reduced as he sadi teh turbo was over boosting, which apparently aint good.

Vince Said taht K04 only like about 1.4bar for reliability and mines currently doing about 1.5bar.

Just as a matter of interest what turbos do people replace the K04s with to get a reliable 300bhp figure, just interested for the future ?

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Nice one Sam, glad its sorted!

 

These two sites are cool for looking at turbos:

 

http://www.atpturbo.com/

 

and

 

http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/

 

The manifolds are for left hand drive cars though. The guys on Dubforce seam to know whats what with them. GT28RS or GT30R in other trim or something is the in thing I think.

 

Something like this one I think

 

http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/catalo ... p-930.html

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sorted, just came off the phone with Stealth and my car is fixed, turns out the coil packs were wired incorrectly and the map was worng to accomodate this (coil packs had been wired as VW intended rather than the way DTA expects, all the coils were being charged at the same time arther than in pairs, and a ford realy had been used inbetween to wire them which I suspect was getting hot and failing to deliver the required voltage, hence it being fine from cold, but failing as it warmed up)

+ the engine mount was shot.

 

car apparently made 300bhp and 300ftlb as opposed to the first run of 270bhp and 254ftlb)

 

fantastic, now just need to go and pick it up

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just got off the phone with sam, he`s just picked his car up and he says it`s amazing, 300bhp 300ft/lb@ 1.3 BAR. needed a new engine mount as apparently the engine was trying to escape from the bay :lol:

 

vince backed off the boost slightly as it came out at 310bhp at first and said there`s no need to run it that high on standard intenals.

 

just gotta wait for him to get back in a few hours before i can go for a spin 8)

 

dont think he`s gonna need a bigger turbo just yet, but an LSD might be a good idea :wink:

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here we go the scans of the runs are in!!!!!! only at 1.3bar

 

the two runs on the graphs are before and after it was taken into vince!

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Well I am still having the same problem with this car, I have now have now done the following to the car.

remap and rewired coils by stealth

new temp sensor blue

new map sensor

new plugs

new iginition switch

new fuel pump relay

new fuel filter

 

and I have also checked the wiring to the DTA everything ok.

The car runs fine most of teh time however sometimes it just wont start at all , and i mean will turn over but not fire even after 2 or 3 mins of cranking

or it will stall at junctions and just not catch idle, i.e you depress clutch an engine dies, only way to catch it is to let clutch up and not let the car come to a stop.

 

I have spoken to Vince on numerous occasions and am probably going to take the car back to him when I can but its a long way away.

have also bought a laptop which I will plug in and check when the convertor from usb to rs232 arrives.

 

we have started to wonder whether it could be the crank sensor, is this seasy to clean get at?

 

The thing is the car runs faultlessly as long as your driving it but an dorddling or starting the car can cause an emense amount of trouble, I am probably going to replace the fuel pump next with a VR6 item.

 

I know I have asked before but any help would be very grateful as at the rate I am going I will have replaced everything on the car.

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Crank sensors can cause fun and games on the VR6 as you describe, so it might be worth checking/replacing yours too.

 

Other than that it's hard to say because you're running standalone, so MAF and idle valves can be outruled. Vince is probably one of few people that can help due to the DTA.....

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sounds like maybe you need the timing trough in the map tweakling slightly to make it catch Sam. could be one of many things though

 

not sure if you mapped it yourself or not sam but with this type of setup sometimes its best to have a high timing level in the rpm row below where you want it to idle. and slightly higher after. creating the trough for idle to sit in so to speak.

 

as for turbos, ihi or t3/to4e 57 trim will meet your goals with ease.lots of choice in that area though.

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map was done at stealth, prior to that it was a Dubsport Map both did exactly the same so am guessing its not that as Vince really does seem to know what he is doing, I also have an idle adjustment screw and it doesnt seem to matter how High I adjust the idle using this (it just stops the throttle hitting the stop) it makes no difference to it happening, when I get the laptop adaptor I will take a look at teh MAP with the aid of Vince and see if we can set a few things, am going to look at eth crank sensor also, was going to put in a spare 16v fuel pump but Vince isnt sure whther this will fit teh g60 fuel tank, and recommends a VR6 one instead, anyone know ?

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