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samg60

1.8t black smoke - now fixed with stealth RR graph

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If it's the usual twist lock pump housing, a VR one will go in OK. Or maybe fit an uprated 'drop in' pump (such as the Sytec) into your G60 housing, which will work well and give you scope for more power later on.....and it's cheaper than a VR pump too.

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id fit the 16v one in-line using the std G60 in tank. used by many in the US for 350-400hp if you want to save a few quid. otherwise an uprated in-tank like kev suggests.

 

cant see that being the issue though.

 

what does the datalog show around the points of the issue.

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Cheers everyone will get the laptop plugged in asap and try and get a better idea of what is going on and also check the crank sensor.

 

by the way for anyone who is interested I have found a useful forum for DTA stuff

 

http://dtaforum.psycode.com/

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I also have an idle adjustment screw and it doesnt seem to matter how High I adjust the idle using this (it just stops the throttle hitting the stop) it makes no difference to it happening, when I get the laptop adaptor I will take a look at the MAP with the aid of Vince ?

 

Gary means use timing to hold the idle speed not the tickover screw.

 

As the engine speed drops the ECU ramps the timing back up to prevent the under swing. You should get yourself the Engine Management book from Haynes by Dave Walker. He has all sorts of useful tricks like that.

 

Gavin

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Problem all solved have been running car for five days doing all I can to get the car to stall and it wont, I had the fuse box out last week and found a connection that looked particularly dodgy car has been faultless since.

 

cant believe it was just that but like I say it has been perfect since, now I can actually look forward to driving the thing again, just gutted the weather has turned.

 

gonna try and read up a bit on dta and engine managment as its the one area I have very little idea about.

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No Gav, another wire entirley but might not have sorted the problem anyway am going to have a play with the dta to see whether there is something there I can have a play with like the ignition advance, the car ran fine for six days and then played up once at a junction but gave the car full throttle and it cleared.

 

I am pretty sure the problem starting is too much fuel as when I remove the fuel pump relay and then run a coil and injector test the problem disappears. so I guess its just flooding, but the problem with idle at junctions is odd, not too sure whether its an intermittant fuel issue or MAP related.

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Just thought I had better post up, car looks like its finally sorted, after lots of parts being changed and a lot of diagnosis including the nasty thought that I might need a new loom or DTA box.

I found a resisistor in the loom, which I got Vince to check and found it it was in line with the injectors, got Vince to remove it and it looks as though it was the problem all along.

Heaven Knows why this was there as the car is running standard TT injectors, anyhow after a part remap and picking it up yesterday it all seems perfect.

basically though this car has never run right since it was built which is a pity as it drives lovely now, drove it a good 350 miles over the weekend without a hickup, no flat spots or stalling or running rich.

 

Hopefully can enjoy the car for what it is now, and a word of thanks To Vince and everyone for finally getting to the bottom of this (fingers crossed just in case) with us.

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Good man. Some aftermarket ECUs need a 'pull up' resistor in the injector line and sometimes the coils too, but the DTAs can run any impedance injector and have inbuilt amps for most coilpacks, so yep, pulling that out should solve your problems.

 

Your injectors are definitely at the right angle aren't they? 20V injectors have twin nozzles to avoid fuel dropping out on the cylinder head partition. So many people who uprate 20Vs fit single nozzle injectors or turn the standards through 90 degrees to make the engine neater, which causes massive cold running and over fuelling issues.

 

I wouldn't touch any of Vince's main load sites, but padding out the fuel and advance in the 501rpm cell can really improve the idle as it 'catches' it when the revs fall, much like an ISV.

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Yeah, Vince has given us a few things in DTA to play around with, although I think its pretty much sorted now, The typical cold start idle problem is there but goes

in about 30 secs, but doesnt run rich or anything just idles very low, Vince did suggest a mk1 mechanical idle valve which I may try and have a go with although I think if i just have a small play

with the water temp compensation etc, I should be good.

 

What I find odd is that the conversion on this car seems to have been done to a high standard yet there as some fundamental things wrong which were causing it to underperform quite considerably.

resistor in DTA, Coil packs wired incorrectly, an inline adjustable fpr which really wasnt needed I guess this was added to try and solve some issues caused by the former.

anyhow it running lovley now, just need to sort the seal around the fuel pump in the boot which I obviously havent put back correctly and nearly died of fume overload yesterday

when I filled it to the top :-)

checked the boot to find petrol leaking out.

 

 

"Ben I cleaned the car put only just a quick was, will get to it now the weathers getting nice though"

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Yeah try the water temp compensation. Adding advance will speed up the idle speed, which will then obviously slow down again once the water heats up. The cold starting can take months to get right and may need constant tweaking to suit each season, LOL! But it's a small price to pay for the other benefits :-)

 

Yeah an Auxillary air valve from a MK1 would work and doesn't even need any electrical connections as it opens thermostatically on it's own. Or you could try a larger one from an early 5 pot Audi.....or better still, I have it on good authority Ford Mondeo ISVs work well and are cheap to replace.

 

I'm sure your install is very good mechanically and no corners cut, and that's the main thing. Engine setup and wiring can perplex even the most experienced of mechanics!! You should read about some of the bodges Dave Walker gets in his workshop (PPC mag), which are quite amusing sometimes!!

When doing conversions like this, it often takes a 3rd or 4th set of eyes to see something that's been over looked.

 

It took me a while to diagnose a faulty injector and nearly set fire to myself and got massive belts off the spark plugs when using the DTA's test program.....but it worked!

 

Glad it's running as it should now though 8)

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I bought it from Redlee on this forum, however he owned it for two years and bought it in the first place from an audi engineer who did the conversion. when I bought the car i knew it needed some work as it was chucking black smoke out but figured it was just a mapping problem. which it kinda was.

 

anyhow I think the car was originally built for DTA as it was purchased the same time as the other receipts and the loom was built up for DTA, I doubt that it was for another ECU as the connections just aint gonna be the same.

 

there were some mistakes which indicate that it was a proficient engineer just lacking DTA knowledge such as the Coil packs being wired acccording to VW specs not DTA.

 

The original MAP was by wayne schofield or so I'm told, and have a print out for 285bhp and 320ftlb on dubsports rollers but it hit no where near that on the first run on Stealths rollers and was dropping boost due to the coils not firing correctly, it was aslo overboosting quite a bit which isnt good for the turbo life.

 

anyway its all sorted now and am very happy especially after yesterdays stint on the A34 and M6 has me think that I more than happy with the amount of power its delivering for the time being :wink: , completely different beast to the car I bought. 8)

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