Cange valve seals. with head on car - 1.8 16V

[wilson 0]

Can you do it?

 

Never changed seals on these engines, I've only ever done it on a ford CVH. on that engine we used to make sure the piston was at top, of each cylinder first so the valve couldn't drop. compress the spring using a tool that screws on the rocker bolt, and the pop the collets out.

 

Is that anything like these engines?

 

thanks

Wilson

[gradeAfailure 0]

pretty sure you can change the stem seals with the head on - most garages these days seem to use an adaptor threaded into the sparkplug hole, and a compressor, to pressurise the cylinder and keep the valves in place.

[wilson 0]

most garages these days seem to use an adaptor threaded into the sparkplug hole, and a compressor, to pressurise the cylinder and keep the valves in place.

 

I haven't a compressor though, do you reckon the method I explained on CVH would work with piston at top? I dont want to try and loose the valve :shock:

[steveo29 0]

you can use a length of clean cord or washer hose to stop the valve falling out

[wilson 0]

you can use a length of clean cord or washer hose to stop the valve falling out

 

How? By tieing the cord to the valve end, of fitting the hose over the end to stop it dropping?

 

What about some mole grips with rubber between the grips to protect?

 

Thanks

Wilson

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Good idea,has anyone ever changed the seals on a valver head??,it's difficult enough even with the head dismanteled from the car,remember those little sods are sitting deep within the head so you'll need the purpose made seal pliers to remove them and hope you don't come across a couple that are stuck fast ... BASTIDS to remove with possible damage to the valve guide.

Be very carefull when re-fitting the seals because they SEEM to be seated ok but sometimes are just a few mm's to high,all will seem ok at first glance and when you re-fit the cams,caps etc everything will work fine untill the hyd.tappets pound the hell out of the tops of the seals...the engine will drink oil like you won't belive.

I'm just speaking from hands-on experience and trying to point out a few pitfalls,i'm not trying to put you off, go ahead and good luck!.

[steveo29 0]

you can use a length of clean cord or washer hose to stop the valve falling out

 

How? By tieing the cord to the valve end, of fitting the hose over the end to stop it dropping?

 

What about some mole grips with rubber between the grips to protect?

 

Thanks

Wilson

 

 

you would poke a clean length of washer hose into the bore and then raise the piston...so that the hose fills any gaps and stops the valve falling in, leave enough so that you can pull it out afterwards

[wilson 0]

Oh right, thanks.

 

What about a tool to compress the spring to remove collets ? is there a specific vw tool?

[VEEDUBBED 0]

well yes there probably is but god only knows were you'll find it,i managed to use the original Vw tool for an 8v head,it was a pig to compress the springs but eventually i managed,after first breaking the shitty plastic compressor piece,bloody Vw..

Getting those spring collets back in is another adventure awaiting..,use a small flat screw driver with grease to 'glue' the collet on while you replace them into the valve spring and on the valve's cut-out on stem.

By the way,i mentioned that the seals may sit too high and get hit by the hyd.tappets,disregard that because on that ocasion the 'engineering shop' left the guides too high,i found out after a month when all the car's oil dissapeared and re-dismanteled the head finding squashed stem seals.., but go carefully anyways and check the installed seal height before removing the old seals,use a vernier caliper.

HTH,cheers.