Valver didnt want to come back to the IOW !!! -- Updated

[Twiss 0]

Hello People

 

Went to alton towers over the weekend, drove up saturday morning then to the B&B and all was fine. Sunday morning arrived and got in the car and started the car , no probs at all.

 

But when I had to get off the boat to get back onto the IOW on sunday evening she really didnt want to start I had to turn her over while pumping the accelrater pedal, finally she then kicks into life, lumby at first but then settles down and idles normally, runs ok to. but ever since then every time she been left for more then an hour i have to start her like that.

 

The Fuel pump primes away.

The starter motor turns over ok

All mormal dash lights are on.

 

I've searched though the forum and I'm confused on what path I should take?

 

New fuel pump?

New injectors?

New switch?

sensors?

 

She's done 145,000 miles, 1990 1.8 16v

 

Could you point me in the right direction please?

 

Thanks Twiss

[steveo29 0]

yank a inj and see if its spraying fuel

 

then see if theres a spark when cranking

[BeavisJem 0]

Check to see your injectors arn;t weeping. They will cause the car to act like its flooded when you try to start it

[mattkh 0]

what fuel did you put in it while on the mainland?

[billinjah 0]

sound like a prob i had on the mk1 that was the non return valve on the front of the fuel pump.

[flusted 0]

I reckon leaky injectors or oil in the dizzy cap?

[PhillT 0]

need to do a fuel pressure check first IMO

 

that way if it's not losing any fuel pressure you can start looking elsewhere.. definately getting a good spark?

 

If it losing pressure, like already stated it's more than likely an injector, had the same trouble as billinjah with the valve by the pump on my Mk1, only takes the smallest of crud to stop it closing and cause pressure loss

 

what's it like to start first thing in the morning?

[Twiss 0]

first thing in the moring it takes a long time to start.

 

Turn key -- engine kicks over ----- turn key again engine kicks over then 5 seconds pass she will start and idle normally and run fine.

 

if I turn her off after she starts first thing in the morning or any time, I can turn the key and she will start first time and run ok.

 

Wheres the the fuel pump ? please don't say its in the fuel tank

[PhillT 0]

I believe there's 2 pumps on the 16v, not done any work on my 16v's pumps yet

 

one will be in the tank, and the other will be by the rear drivers wheel

 

I'm sure someone will confirm

 

EDIT: the one in the tank is accessable from inside the boot

[Twiss 0]

Well I just phoned VAG and they want £20 inc vat for the non-return valve is this right?

 

Is replaceing the non-return valve easy ?

I also thought I would change the fuel filter as i dont know when it was last done. Do I need any thing else when replacing the fuel filter?

 

Thanks for your help so far.

[Toad 0]

there's a good guide for changing the filter in the knowledge base. There's even a handy list of what parts you need. I just bought a filter, wish i'd bought a clamp for it too though.

[Twiss 0]

Well I went to Change the non-return valve to day, Oh what joy. Simple job

 

As I went to remove the bolt that Holds the fuel pipe from the accumlator onto the non-return valve the fuel pipe would not let go of the bolt and decided to snap. At this point many many words of wisdom was spoken. LOL

 

So is the pipe that I broke a VAG only part or can I get it from another supplier?

 

The really bad thing is that I Have also found to day that number 1 injector seems to be wet but does not smell of fuel so it could be the problem with my starting!! I'll find out when it get the new pipe and put it all back together I suppose.

 

Thanks Twiss

[flusted 0]

I have spare fuel lines if you get stuck! give me a buzz on 07814092705

 

Adie

 

ps Im in Ryde

[Twiss 0]

Thanks flusted, I see how I get on.

[Twiss 0]

Well After finally droping the fuel pump and all its bits off of the car I ended up replacing the non-return valve, the accumulater, both fuel pipes and the fuel filter. P

oped it back on the car and half a aturn of the key and she fires stright up. shes also running much better.

 

thanks for your help.

[Twiss 0]

well looks like the above was to good to last

 

Well After replacing the fuel pipes, accumulator, non retun valve, Ignition switch, Dizzy Cap & rotor Arm(bought from unipart). she is starting better but is still 50% of the time not starting -- turn key-- engine kick over- nothing have to continue to kick the starter motor over while pumping the throttle and then she will start, lumpy at first but then runs and idles fine.

 

ANy ideas what else it could be ?

[mrbeige 0]

When you replaced the rotor arm, you didn't damaged the distributor did you? The reason I say that is when I replaced my rotor arm on mine I had to geta screw driver under it to leaver it off and bent the cylindrical bit inside slightly causing it to foul on the hall sensor inside the distributor. This gave intermittant issues with starting.

 

Worth a look?

[Toad 0]

Did you try changing the injectors?

 

Mine would run like a sack of sh!t to start with because the injectors were weeping fuel out. Got better when I changed them, although it's a pain in the arse to start at the moment... I don't think it likes getting cold... I'll have to buy it a jumper.

[DanVW 0]

Hey Tom,

 

Does the C 16v's have a cold start injector like the Golf 16v does? Did you change that one as well? May be worth checking your cold start enrichment is working? Maybe I should stop asking so many questions? :scratch:

[Twiss 0]

I decided to have the cam belt and tensioner all done aa I havent had done since i owned her and can't find out when /if she was done. if that dosent sort or serouirsly help her then I have to start thinking about injectoers, HT leads etc

 

thanks

 

Vaughn

[steveo29 0]

a new cam belt aint gona help starting issues....worth doing though

 

new inj and o rings made a big differance on mine