can't get car into gear

[DEL VR6 0]

Need some advice of you please guys and girls...

 

I cant get the car into first gear in the mornings, and when i just about can, i really have to push the lever hard. It doesnt feel right forcing it that way.

 

The other "symptom" that has become more noticable lately is that you have to push the clutch really deep in, almost pushing it with your toes, and when you just let it off a tiny bit, the car starts moving forwards. Is just a worn clutch?

 

The clutch was ony replaced about 8400 miles ago. I thought they last longer than that.

 

The stiffness seems to more apparent when the car is cold, and generally only with first gear. Once its moving, and you are changing up or down, im pretty sure that it doesnt feel as bad, although you still have to push the clutch right in, and the biting point still seems really low.

 

Have just checked back though the service and it went to stealth for a "full" service at 98994 miles and since then its only done 2250 miles ago.

 

Could it be that there is no oil in the gearbox?

 

Ok, enough from me. Over to you for some advice before i decide where and who to take it to. Thanks in advance.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Sounds like a worn clutch slave or master cylinder. Having to push the pedal right to the floor to get enough pressure to release the plates is clue to that. It's why you can't select first, the plates just aren't seperating enough and it's more of a problem in first as there's no wheel rotation to help the synchros.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Also, the release forks are known to crack or bend with age, so it might also be that. hard to say without a thorough inspection.

[Slimg60 0]

Yer I had that, the release fork failed in a big way and mashed up my clutch, which also needed changing then. Better to check it sooner rather than later like I did.

[Andy T 0]

Like kev says, I had this problem, turned out to be the clutch master cylinder. The bite point would get low after a long journey, then the next morning when the car had cooled down, it would be right on the floor and wouldnt select any gear.

 

Cheapest way to tell is to bleed the clutch system at master cylinder (bulkhead) & slave cylinder(gearbox), to see if it improves matters. It might be spot on after doing that, but it won't last long so get one or both replaced.

[DEL VR6 0]

thanks for your advice.

 

the car is currently at a mates place in his garage.

 

Is it something i can check out myself by jacking the car up? or do i need to try and get it a garage somehow?

[Andy T 0]

Both cylinders can be accessed from the engine bay.

 

I'd start by bleeding the slave cylinder on the g/box, its just underneath the cable linkage on top of the 'box. If you havent got a bleeding kit, remove cap on the brake fluid reservoir, get your mate to press the clutch pedal while you open the bleed valve, let the fluid through, close the bleed valve, release the clutch pedal, and repeat until any air bubbles(if any) have stopped. Just don't let the level drop below MIN. on the resevoir.

 

Now try the clutch, if the bite point is back to normal, it's likely that the slave cylinder is goosed. If the pedal is no better, its probably the master cylinder, you will have to bleed that aswell. If that works, replace the master cyl, and possibly the slave too if your feeling flush.

[DEL VR6 0]

Cheapest way to tell is to bleed the clutch system at master cylinder (bulkhead) & slave cylinder(gearbox), to see if it improves matters. It might be spot on after doing that, but it won't last long so get one or both replaced.

 

You were absolutely spot on mate. Nice one.

 

Although this thread was started way back, the car has actually been sat around at a mates because i have not had the free time due to work etc, and was a little bit dis-heartened when my mate did take it to a local garage, although not specialists, for them to have a once over. They looked at it (not in any detail by the sounds of things) and said it aint hydraulics, its a gearbox issue.

 

I didn't believe them, but due to work / lack of free time couldnt do anything about it until this week.

 

On Monday, I took the car to Lion Grage in Hinckley, thanks to a recomendation from here, and Jason said straight away that its a hydraulic issue.

 

This morning, while i waited, they bled the clutch and couldnt find any leaks on either cylinder at this stage.

 

So at the moment, the car drives absolutely sweet. They said to try it for a while, and if the problem comes back they will look at replacing one or both cylinders which cost about £70 and £30 plus a couple of hours labour.

 

So this morning has cost me £27!!! thats it. A bargain and something i wish I was able to do back in November when the problem first cropped up, rather than worrying that its a major job and that it would end up costing loads. Just goes to show, it aint always a huge problem!

 

Thanks everyone for the advice. (Yet again) this forum proves to be invaluable.

[poll250 0]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but your saying to bleed the clutch slave, yovue got to press the brake pedal, not the clutch pedal in?

[Andy T 0]

Sorry i've just re-read my post, I meant press the clutch pedal! have updated it now.

[poll250 0]

Phew! thank god I read that! right so I just get someone to press the clutch pedal in, undo the bolt and let air/fluid out, then do it back up and let the clutch out. Then repeat. (checking fluid levels dont go too low) If that doesnt do anything then do the same to the master, which is between the MAF and throttle body. :)

[Andy T 0]

Yep, slacken the bleed nipple and press the pedal down steady, hold it there then tighten the nipple. Ideally have a piece of clear plastic pipe attached the bleed nipple, so you can see the air bubbles more clearly and it helps to direct the nasty stuff away from you your car and into a container.