cam belt renewal guide?

[cardboard 0]

have had a quick search on the forum for a guide to changing the cam belt but cant seem to find one?

 

has anyone put one together or can they recomend where i can get one?

 

also looking to change my cam from the 2.0 9a to the 1.8 kr is there a guide for that n all?

 

I WISH THERE WAS A HAYNES!!!

[nocrap 0]

you can use a haynes manual, you need the earlier passat one...that covers the 9a.

 

as far as a guide goes i haven't seen one either, but i changed mine the other week and it was fine.

 

Basically you need to remove the covers from the cam belt, remove the drivers side wheel and take out the arch.

Remove the alternator belt and possibly the PAS one

Crank the engine using the star bolt in the middle of the drive pulley so that the line on the cam sproket lines up with the arrow on the cam cover this is TDC

Remove the bung from on to of the fly wheel on the other side of the block, you should be able to see a line on it and this should line up with a dot

Release the bolts and soak the drive shaft pully with releasing fluid and leave for a bit

Give the pulley a good couple of whacks with a plastic or rubber mallet and it should drop off (do not be tempted to undo the central star bolt!!)

Slacken the tensioner pulley and remove cam belt

Slide on the new belt with the new tensioner roller (which can be a bit of a fiddle)

rotate roller using tool and hand tighten bolt

cam belt should now be tight

rotate the engine using the line of the cam sproket as a guide at least twice (i think i did mine 8 times in the end)

check that the flywheel marks line up still.

if all is good put everything back together after tightening up the roller bolt.

 

I know i've probably forgotten something here but i'm sure others will pick me up!

 

I would advise doing this with 2 people, especially for the timing bit.

Don't worry about the intermediate pulley as this only drives the fuel pump

Ensuring that the timing marks all line up on a 16v is critical!

 

Have fun

[cardboard 0]

many thanks i imagine changing the cam is a walk in the park really.

[nocrap 0]

Yeah, i didn't want to change the cam as well as i didn't want there being 2 possible causes if there were problems.

Again with the cam you have to have it at TDC and i beleive that there are marks on the cam that you need to line up.....the only thing i know for sure is that its a good idea to change the chain which is around £10 from GSF!

[davidwort 0]

...Don't worry about the intermediate pulley as this only drives the fuel pump

 

oil pump I hope :wink:

 

only other thing is the tensionner and tensionner bolt on the 2L, as discussed recently in other threads the later 16v's have a different tensionner and the bolt should not be torqued up as tight as the early cars as it's a smaller thread

[nocrap 0]

:lol: yup thats the one!!

[Guest]

I've got to do the belt ,tensioner,and Kr cam and a new cam chain on ours soon

the cams are a pain to line the dots up but its clear if its right or wrong

I'll be fitting the 50mm inlet at the same time as doing the rest as my list is huge as to what will be happening before it hits the road

[cardboard 0]

lol cheers guys ive heard mixed feedback from fitting the 50mm inlet??

[nocrap 0]

you'll find some more info on the 50mm here http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/16v_Tuning_Guide