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Dubsingh

Just finished rebuilding

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hi all

 

i have just 80% completed my engine rebuild, just gona pop the old stem seals out and put the new ones in, as i checked my head and its not warpped so id rather not get it skmmed after reading a few other threads which say not to do it unless really needed. cleaned the face using a super flat block with fine grade emery to clean any muck off.

 

right there are a few questions that i have, as the car has been sitin still for over a month now witht he bat disconected will there be any funky procedure i need to follow when all is connected up again?

 

is the timing as simple as the gti valver? or is there a special procedure for the g60 any hints and tips will be greatly apreciated., surely after i get the head connected i wil have some wiring questions as i think iv forgoten where some go...but ill ask as i encounter them

 

pics of rebuild to follow

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a pic of he car in question...thought id bought a bargain buti dnt think id get screwed ova by a fellow dubber :( :( ...oh well at least i will have a raddo wiv 0 miles on it engine and another 100k plus to enjoy (well thats the idea)

 

raddo.jpg

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some reverse order pic thread here i knw sorry..here are the old bits out from the block and the state of the piston shos what the other three were like too.....

 

Photo-0029.jpg

 

messed up pistons (no wonder i only had around 60 - 105 on the compression test)

 

Photo-0028.jpg

 

the new custom pistons that i got from philT of this fourn man was a life saver...and helped my pocket a bit absolute bargain...

 

Photo-0035.jpg

 

 

shall have pics of the engine and box bolted into the car tomo just gota pick up the nerve to do the head now thng is i speand more time cleanin that i get carried away....guys again if there are any pitfalls that i should be aware of when i have her bolted up and ready to fire for the first time plz feel free to advice me many thanks in advance

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That engine's looking nice and tasty mate - I nearly made this vr block into a coffee table it was so nice! :)

 

 

i like that to thing is my rallye has a vr lump in it and i am in the middle of rebuilding that so as soon as i get to the engine i will be doing the same....well the chains and the steam seals...the engine only has 65k on it but iv driven it hard as the charger adds quite a punch to the ohhh so sexy note of the 6 pot.

 

 

my thread for the rallye can be followed here

 

http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.p ... llye%20vr6

 

not sure if this vid will play

 

th_Video006.jpg

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gus could someone kindly post a clear pictur of the lamba plug on the car loom plz i have wo broken wires and not sure where they go. cheers

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think heres the reason why the charger filled up wiv oil on long motorway drives esp underload....and to think iv changed the seals twice on the charger :( :( :(

 

but on the bright side i will have a spankin new engine :lol: :D

 

th_a0dc4fed.jpg

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ive just had the same thing done to mine. still running it in. my piston did the same . a small slice fell out between the rings. odd ah. did you get the crank rebalanced.might be worth it..

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yup balanced along with the fly wheel with a little lightning not to much. the pistons get lie that if the car has overheated. i knw the guy i bought it from overheated it as the bills showed new water pump thermo stat, tempratre sensors etc etc

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well managed to get box and engine back into the car just waiting to get new driveshaft bolts and DX pully bolt

 

Photo-0040.jpg

 

had to repair the front cross member as it looked worse the swiss cheese. amazing what you can do with fiberglass. will have to do for now til i can afford to get a replacment might get that chromed before i put it on.

 

Photo-0042.jpg

 

ok peeps managed to get the picture of the broken wires for the lambda sensor plug of the car loom not sure where the wires go so any help would be great, also which hole dose the vacum line fron the ecu go onto on the inlet mani?

 

Photo-0041.jpg

 

many thanks in advance

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Cant help with the wiring mate but good skills, nice to see all that work going into a Corrado, I'm currently doing a re-build on my VR.

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whoopee (ish) i got the car running sounds real good good compression all round and the engine aint breathing its guts out. how ever i left the car running for a good hour and a bit while i cleaned out the intercooler and bits just to give the oil a chance to get everywhere properly. whilst this was happning the charger started sounding funny, its had new seals and apex strips looks ok but sounded like the scrol was slapin the casing sprayed some ptfe based lube in and it eventually went quite, i knw the thing was ok when i took it off could something have gone wrong whilst its been sitting the a while?????

 

i dnt think i can put of the visit to gwerks to long, soon as she gets on the road and is drivable she is going for a second opinion check up.

 

another bug bear is the transmision, i dnt lossen an thing of the adjusment just pulled the circlip out and took the cable of and the counter weight side cable i marked before i to it of, how my reverse has gone cnt fing it and in its place i have first, i over adjusted the cable and managed to get reverse ok, but firt is still only in gear when i push the stick down and over as if i were putin it into reverse, what have i not checked or done wrong???

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you haven't lost the dreaded circlip from the gear lever end have you?, under the gear lever leather boot.

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just read the adjusment thread , i will have to have alook tomo, but i dnt see why as i dnt tamper wiv nething under the gaitor and it was workin fine when i took the box off the car, lets see i will have to play around with it, seems like its the side to side movement thats causing the ball ache

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just read the adjusment thread , i will have to have alook tomo, but i dnt see why as i dnt tamper wiv nething under the gaitor and it was workin fine when i took the box off the car, lets see i will have to play around with it, seems like its the side to side movement thats causing the ball ache

 

yep, if that circlip broke or popped off, the side to side movement would be too far (towards reverse) and part of the gear lever movement wouldn't be transferred into cable movement.

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