Removing aftermarket alarm

[Rpmayne 0]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for where alarm fitters would intercept the Corrado wiring? I want to remove my Laserline as the matrix blew up and soaked the control unit. Ever since the total closure hasn't worked, the car has real trouble idling and intermittently stalls, the battery dies on ignition (not running) within 30mins and other curious electrical problems. I'm hoping these are all down to the alarm.

 

Thanks for any help.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Peice of P1ss mate. Drop your steering cowling and you'll see where they've intercepted the starter motor wiring and also the fuel pump relay wiring at the bottom right of the fuse board.

 

The original wires will have been spliced into, so cut out the laserline wiring (usually all plain black) and rejoin the VW wiring.

 

The rest of the alarm wiring will be interfaces, such as C/L, windows, vanity light, Ultrasonics etc and will be easy to trace and remove.

[flusted 0]

starter wire is thick red/black

fuel pump wire is thin red/yellow

ignition wire thick black/yellow

 

hope that helps

 

ps make sure you solder the new joins

[Rpmayne 0]

Cheers for that, will try bypassing the immobiliser part first and hopefully the mysterious electrical problems will dissappear.

 

Just another thought... When you have a alarm and remote locking fitted, does that inhibit the door lock switch from activating the central locking as it would have originally? Whenever I lock the car via the drivers door the central locking doesn't work. Just hoping that when the alarm is gone I will at least have central locking.

[Rpmayne 0]

Finally got round to temporarily removing the alarm and the car now starts as standard. The alarm fitment was a complete bodge, and had only 2 of the 3 point immobilisation connected amongst other things. Only problem is I now don't have central locking via the door locks which used to work via the alarm, and the stalling continues.

 

The only wire I can't find a home for is a single brown/white 0.5mm which was connected to a blue wire from the alarm unit. It looks like the same coded cables connected to the door switch for the interior light, so guess it was the doors open signal. Can anyone confirm this or is it central locking related?

 

As for the stalling, still no idea. Car finally ran right until the heater matrix blew and soaked the immobiliser, now removed the problem still persists. Other strange thing is... If the ignition is on the fuel pump sometimes primes on and off continuously, and other times it will prime the usual once, yet when any other electrical source is switched (ie. indicators, main lights etc) it will prime again.

 

Any ideas as always much appreciated, stalling may be completely unrelated but the fuel pump priming issues are abit worrying. I suppose once the car is started the fuel pump runs continuously anyway so no issue but something's not right somewhere.

 

Cheers.