Drilling a hole in the oil filter housing

[Dutch24V 0]

I have an issue with the high oil pressure warning beep/lamp.

 

The 24v oil filter housing only has one hole on the top of it, to which I have fitted the low oil pressure switch. I need to mount the high oil pressure switch so I'm thinking of drilling and threading a suitably sized hole in to the flat part on the top of the 24v housing and mounting it here.

 

Will this be possible? I've not done this sort of thing since school so am unsure how successful threading a cast lump of metal will be? (Not sure if it's aluminum either?)

 

If this can be done then I think it's a good solution to my problem, unless anyone has a better idea of course?

 

Cheers,

Dutch

[davidwort 0]

room for a 'T' piece instead?

[Dutch24V 0]

Yes, but I need to add and additional switch though, not split the output of an existing one.

 

I have the low oil presure switch already on, but need to fit the high oil pressure switch too. They are 2 different switchs so I cannot simply t-off the low presure one unfortunately.

 

Dutch

[davidwort 0]

Yes, but I need to add and additional switch though, not split the output of an existing one.

 

I have the low oil presure switch already on, but need to fit the high oil pressure switch too. They are 2 different switchs so I cannot simply t-off the low presure one unfortunately.

 

Dutch

 

I thought they were actually both low pressure warning switches, it's just that one is set for low value at idle, the other at different engine conditions, I'm probably missing something, but why would it be any different running both off the sides of a T piece as opposed to different drillings in the oil filter housing, it's all the same pressure they are sensing???

[Dutch24V 0]

They are not actually the same switch. One is for low pressure (0-0.25) bar and the other for high (1-1.4) bar (or something like that).

They are referred to as the blue and black oil pressure switches.

 

If you look on ETKA they are two different parts. I have just ordered the high pressure switch but still need to mount it some how :)

 

Dutch

[coolrado 0]

i think what davidwort is trying to get at is a brass t-piece that you can screw into the oil filter housing and then screw both switches into it rather than an electrical connection.

[davidwort 0]

They are not actually the same switch. One is for low pressure (0-0.25) bar and the other for high (1-1.4) bar (or something like that).

They are referred to as the blue and black oil pressure switches.

 

If you look on ETKA they are two different parts. I have just ordered the high pressure switch but still need to mount it some how :)

 

Dutch

 

yeah, I know they're not the same value, but they perform the same function (i.e. warn of low pressure) just at different values for different revs, i.e. the 0.25 will warn at idle and the 1.3 at 2500rpm ish, what I'm saying is there should be no reason they can't run from the same drilling via a T piece as they simply complete a different circuit to earth through the block when they close at the appropriate value. The only reason for having to use a separate drilling would be if for some reason they had to pick up pressure from a certain point in the 'plumbing', I've swapped the senders around on the 16v to no detriment and I know people who run the orig sender and a guage sender from a T piece which is effectively what you need to do, it's just both of your senders are fixed values, rather than one being fixed and the other being a variable resistance for the gauge.

[Goldie 2]

Alternatively can the Vr filter housing be mated up to the 24v block?

[Dutch24V 0]

hmmm, i'm getting confused now. Why would vw make 2 different senders if they are infact the same?

I thought they warned of low and high presure regardless of engine speed, hence requiring 2 different senders?

 

I'm no expert though so could be wrong :?

 

Goldie: Not sure, but the 12v oil filter housing is different to the 24v one. The 12v oil cooler fits directly onto the block, but the 24v oil cooler fits onto the oil filter housing itself.

 

Dutch

[Dutch24V 0]

Sorry guys, just re-read and now I get what your getting at (i'm having an off day today :) )

 

Sounds like a good idea. Any idea where I can get such a t-piece though?

 

Dutch

[bigpants baby 0]

Demon tweeks

[Dutch24V 0]

Excelent, thanks alot guys.

 

Just spoken to demon tweaks. 30 quid with 24h delivery to my house in Holland for a 10*1 brass t-piece. Hope it's the right size - he said it's what most earlier vw's used?

 

Dutch

[davidwort 0]

Excelent, thanks alot guys.

 

Just spoken to demon tweaks. 30 quid with 24h delivery to my house in Holland for a 10*1 brass t-piece. Hope it's the right size - he said it's what most earlier vw's used?

 

Dutch

 

that's a good point, I have no idea if the later VW's use senders with a single connection that earth through the block or twin connections (i.e. feed and earth) like the water temp senders on my mk4?

 

What's the part number of your current pressure sender(s) that should tell us, can cross reference it with other older VW's then.

[Dutch24V 0]

I'm fiting the Corrado pressure senders as I'm using the Corrado Clocks.

Not sure what the numbers are and I don't have them to hand at the mo. unfortunately.

 

Dutch

[Goldie 2]

Part numbers..

 

068919081D and 028919081H.

 

I had to replace mine recently..

[davidwort 0]

Part numbers..

 

068919081D and 028919081H.

 

I had to replace mine recently..

 

 

they should be M10 1mm thread standard single connector pressure switches then, should be fine with the DT T-piece

[Dutch24V 0]

Excellent work there guys. Very much appreciated. :thumb right:

 

So hopefully after the weekend the annoying beeping will be gone :)

 

Dutch

[Dutch24V 0]

Well the t-piece has just arrived. Damn good delivery service as I only ordered it at 16:00 yesterday.

 

Not sure if it's ok though as when I screw one switch into the side hole it blocks the inside hole that allows the oil up to the top switch :? Is this normal?

 

Dutch

[davidwort 0]

if air can get past the first senders thread to the other sender then I'm sure it will be OK, the sender uses an extremely small hole in the base to actually take the pressure anyway.

you could always use two alloy washers on the side sender to space it out a bit

that was a quick delivery!

[Goldie 2]

Postman pat doesnt hang around, that was rapid!!!

[Dutch24V 0]

Air can get past, just. Think I'm going to space the side one out a few mm as you suggest and it should be fine.

 

Yeah very quick delivery, but for 20 quid on a 5 quid product it had better be :)

 

Dutch

[davidwort 0]

Air can get past, just. Think I'm going to space the side one out a few mm as you suggest and it should be fine.

 

Yeah very quick delivery, but for 20 quid on a 5 quid product it had better be :)

 

Dutch

 

buy a couple more alloy washers for it, they'll make a proper seal as they are softer, I'd have thought that would be better than 1 alloy washer and one steel as the steel to steel joint could leak.

[Dutch24V 0]

OK, thanks for the tip.

 

Will post results over the weekend.

 

Thanks again...

Dutch

[Dutch24V 0]

Well I tried to fit the t-piece over the weekend and there isn't enough height clearance for it to fit so it fouls the crack pipe :(

 

So I had a little look further and found a little Allen key head bolt that looked like it was blocking a spare hole on the front of the oil filter housing, so I removed it and low and behold behind it was a spare sensor hole with thread :) I fitted the high pressure sensor and wired it up only to find the oil warning light came on with the engine is running. I thought maybe the low and high-pressure switches were wired the wrong way round so switched them over and all seemed good. Went for a drive and at 60 degrees the bloody beeping started again along with the oil warning light :mad:

 

Which switch actually triggers the low oil warning light/buzzer? I'm going to try them the other way round again to see if the buzzer comes on when the engine is warm, other than that guess I'm going to have to trace the wiring to see what connector they connect to on the fuse box and go from there. I have the wiring diagrams so know where they should go, but they do not explain the workings unfortunately.

 

Dutch

[Dutch24V 0]

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