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About Dutch24V

  • Rank
  • Birthday 12/06/1973


  • Location
    The Netherlands


  • Occupation
    Software Engineer

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  1. Carbon canister purge valve probably. Does the tick frequency increase when driving?
  2. I'm running a 4Motion engine and manifold without any modification to the standard 4Motion manifold? Strange that on a LHD car it just fits!?
  3. Well, after several spirited journeys I'm glad to report no rubbing, so far! Haven't driven with any passengers yet mind so need to see how that goes, but so far so good. Can't say I've noticed the steering being any heavier than before either and strangely less tram lining too? Maybe yours was dropped lower than mine Stone? Compared to the old 195/40 p zero nero's that were on before the ride is 100% better so I think I've made the right choice. Guess time will tell. Dutch
  4. It's been a while since I last posted on here and it would seem things have changed quite a bit by the looks of it! I still have the C, but haven't driven her much over the last year or so. She's back in favour at the moment so decided to treat her to some new tyres. I've been running 195/40 on my 17*7.5j rkii's for the last 3 years or so with FK konigsport coilovers lowered +/-40mm. The ride was terrible though so after much deliberation I've had 4 215/40 17 conti sport contact 3's fitted. I must say the ride is vastly improved, but I've noticed a rather notable drop in acceleration!? Should I have gone for 205/40's instead? Would it be worth the extra cost and hassle to change?? So far I have no rubbing issues, but I'm not 100% convinced I've made the right choice. I presume 205/40's will give a much better ride than the 195's, but not as good as the 215's? I also presume acceleration will be improved too, but by how much and will I feel the difference? I cannot measure the difference in acceleration, but it feels quite sluggish compared to when running on the 195's! What would be the best bet based on your experiences? R, Dutch
  5. Thanks for the advice. I'm on coilovers so like you say can adjust if necessary. I did do some searching before posting, but wasn't 100% clear if 215/40's would rub with my wheel size and offset. My current wheels and tyre sizes give a sidewall of 3.1 inches according to http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html, and 215/40 would be 3.4 and 215/35 - 3 inches. From a comfort point of view the 215/40 would be the better option I guess and give virtually no stretch? I think I'll be going for 215/40 Conti SP3's then, unless you know of a better option with some rim protection? R, Paul
  6. Will 17*7.5 et35 wheels with 215/40 17 tyres fit a VR6 without any issues on a 40mm drop? I cannot decide over 205/40, 215/40 or 215/35 on above mentioned wheels. Cost is not an issue for the tyres and the main concern is comfort and no rubbing issues. Any input appreciated as I cannot decide. I'm currently running 195/40 17 on these rims but the ride is a bit harsh and I don't like the stretch look that much (the tyres came with the wheels when I bought them but now need replacing). I would also like a fairly straight side wall and with some kind of rim protection as it's too easy to kerb the alloys atm and they will be refurbed before I fit any new tyres. Cheers, Dutch
  7. I'm looking at replacing all 4 types on my VR. I'm currently running 17*7.5 wheels. What is the best size tyre for this size wheel? 205/40 or 225/35?? Does anyone run 225/35 on 17's and do you have any front rubbing issues? R, Paul
  8. I have one - 2.8 24v. Been driving now for 2 years or so. Did the conversion myself with the engine coxy was going to use before he went with the 3.2 Dutch ...edit: but I'm obviously not in the UK ;)
  9. Oil warning light should function as normal. From what I remember you need both the high and low pressure switchs mounted to the 24v oil filter/cooler. I remember having the same problem, but solved it by adding both switches. I think you have to locate them in the right position too though otherwise the light and buzzer will still go off. Dutch
  10. Just confirmed this and I can now unlock my car too :) On the new VAG pumps (suffix G) pins 3 & 8 need to be connected together and then the pump will lock AND unlock the car :clap: Hope this helps others with a new pump and the same problem. R, Paul
  11. Well, just been told by VW that the replacement pump you get now (suffix G) is not exactly the same as the original one and that you have to jump pins 3 & 8 for the pump to actually unlock. If pins 3&8 are not connected it will act as a one way pump only - ie only locking the car. I'll try over the weekend. Hopefully it'll work, but I'm not convinced! R, Paul
  12. I've read that a few others have had the same problem too. It's strange that if I remove the vac line to the pump it works fine (ie. sucks and then blows). If I stop it by blocking the vac point though whilst sucking it will not blow anymore. I'm going to ask VW to replace the pump tomorrow and go from there. I can't see how it could be a wiring issue though as surely it would never blow if that were the case and connecting/removing the vac line would have no effect. R, Paul
  13. I've searched and read all there is on this but I'm still confused. My pump was overheating and almost burnt out - luckily I removed it before and real damage was done. Before I removed it it was sucking and blowing as it should, but it would take 10 minutes or so before it stopped blowing when I unlocked the car. So I buy a new one from VW and now it won't blow when the vac line is connected. If I plug the pump in but leave the vac line of it will suck when I "lock" the car and it will blow when I "unlock" the car (via the alarm key fob), but when I connect the vac line it will still suck to lock the car, but it 'will not blow to unlock it anymore. Strange? I have delocked door handles btw and I do not have the old ones anymore. If my pump was blowing before why doesn't the new one when the vac line is connected? I don't fancy removing the door cards and water membranes unless really necessary. Any idea on what/where the problem may be? R, Paul
  14. Thanks for clarification Swifty. The picture shown is of an rkii wheel size 17*8 - 5*112. If I could get hold of a pair of these I reckon I could swap faces with my 5*100 ones as the bolt patterns should be identical being basically the same wheels.!? Let the search begin... R, Dutch
  15. No me neither :D ...but I can't see why it can't be done, unless i'm missing something? R, Dutch
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