VR6 0 Posted November 9, 2003 Right I've spent quite a bit of time hashing together, formatting, and part writing, a buyers guide for the Corrado. This can hopefully be used to answer every new person to the site that asks the age-old question. What do I need from you? I need people to read through the guide as it is, and post to let me know: Amendments [/*:m:17bcb] Things to be added in [/*:m:17bcb] General improvements, such as formatting [/*:m:17bcb] New sections [/*:m:17bcb] Thanks Corrado Buying Guide Body & External Check for accident damage around inner wings and the boot floor, including seams. The rear panel (above the spare wheel as you look in the boot) has a VAG sticker which gives all model information, if this has gone, the car may have had rear end damage and been rebuilt/resprayed. Rusty creases in the inner part of the front wings may mean the car has had some front end damage/repair. Above rear bumper - check that the two vertical 'seams' at each side of the rear panel are perfect, straight and even, with no bubbling/rust coming through (possible evidence of poor rear end damage repair). Also look for rust on the chassis and under the bonnet and door sills and check the valance under/behind the front bumper/lower spoiler for rust. Check body for: Scratches [/*:m:17bcb] Dents [/*:m:17bcb] Rust [/*:m:17bcb] Misaligned panels (inc doors, bonnet, boot) [/*:m:17bcb] Door handles are stiff. Can be replaced with Passat rear handles (de-locked) for around £10 each or genuine Corrado handles for approx £55 each! [/*:m:17bcb] Stone chips on the bonnet are quite common. Although this can just be an indication of motorway driving. For info:- Bonnet cross sections: Early style ------______------ Late Style ____----------____ [/*:m:17bcb] Lights for cracks including spots. Headlights for early models are £60+vat and £99+vat for later complete units. Headlight glass is 22.50+VAT from Euro Parts for both early and late models Fogs from GPC will cost approx £50 for early style and approx £75 for later style Indicators are about £50 new from VW, but can be had from scrap yards more commonly than "good" fog lamps. 2nd hand they seem to fetch about £25 the pair. [/*:m:17bcb] Chassis plates - check the VIN plate on the cross member at the back of the engine bay matches the log book and the sticker inside the boot [/*:m:17bcb] Colour code ("mailshot" size sticker on the inside of the rear panel with the relative colour code or an orange-red smallish sticker on the inside of the o/s/f wing) & also a sticker insider the drivers side door pillar. [/*:m:17bcb] Wipers are notoriously poor – possible remedies include modding the existing setup or using Lupo wipers, which would be a bonus if already done Colours/Codes See attached list for colour codes and details VW's (amongst others) reds are quite infamous for fading/going pink. A good check to see if the colour can be recovered is to rub a wet finger on the paint – if it regains some of it’s colour, the odds are that it can be recovered with cutting compound treatment Interior [/*:m:17bcb] Look out for ripped/worn/saggy seat bolsters [/*:m:17bcb] Sunroof – does it tilt and slide. Any scratching to the paint on the external side of the sunroof Passat glass sunroof can be used as a direct replacement [/*:m:17bcb] Check for damp carpets in the footwells – could be due to heater matrix or could need new inner door membranes If its passenger side (RHD) check that leaves, pine needles etc have not blocked the drains by the bulkhead, as in hard rain the bulkhead area can fill up and overflow into the ventilation intake. Cheap fix! [/*:m:17bcb] Leather is a sought after extra. Available in Black, Cream, Grey [any more?] and on the Campaign model, Brick-Red (but you’ll be lucky to find one of the 6 available Campaign interiors or cars. [/*:m:17bcb] Check the headlight switch action is smooth and accurate - they run warm and this can make the plastic brittle. If its notchy or wobbly, it could be about to snap inside and a new one is expensive. Used one, less so, but rare. Alternative is a bottle of superglue and a quiet night in. [/*:m:17bcb] First aid kit in centre arm-rest (if applicable) - can be replaced with other first aid kits for around £30 [/*:m:17bcb] Warning triangle in rear seat back (zipper at top) - can be bough from dealers for around £20 [/*:m:17bcb] Check that the ventilation control panel functions competely. The fan should work in all four positions and the "direction" dial should also work. For later (dial type panel) a replacement is over £200 and slider type panel used on early cars is no longer available from VW Wheels & tyres [/*:m:17bcb] Kerbed alloys [/*:m:17bcb] Worn tyres (especially uneven wear) [/*:m:17bcb] Missing centre caps [/*:m:17bcb] Signs that the wheels are fouling the arches [/*:m:17bcb] Check the condition of the spare wheel, and more importantly, that it has one! Also check that the jack, wheel-brace, spanner and screwdriver are present All 4 cylinder (2.0 8v, 1.8 16v, 2.0 16v and 1.8 G60) models have 4-stud hubs and all VR6's have 5-stud hubs. Suspension [/*:m:17bcb] Listen for any knocking sounds from the suspension and check to see if there is any leakage from the dampers. [/*:m:17bcb] Under rear wheel arches - look at shock absorber top spring plate, check for corrosion and ensure there is a gap between the plate the top of the strut spring sits in, and bodywork. [/*:m:17bcb] A decent set of coilovers can be a plus point because if you intend to add them yourself, you will need to budget approx £500 for an average (price-wise) setup. VW did spend a lot of money developing the suspension, however, so finding a good standard setup is preferable (might be a sign of less 'spirited' driving as well). Brakes [/*:m:17bcb] Check handbrake. Lots of ‘clicks’ to engage? [/*:m:17bcb] Condition of disks [/*:m:17bcb] Warped disks (brake judder) [/*:m:17bcb] ABS – Should be included on all VR6 and 2.0 16V's (should also have traction control as well). Some later G60's had ABS. It was also an option on the other models as well. There should be an orange ABS light in the dash to the left of the driver (It has been known for cars with faulty ABS for the warning light to just be removed!! Start the car with your foot on the brake pedal – you should feel a pulse and the light should go out. If the light is permanently on, it could mean: [/*:m:17bcb] ABS sensors might need cleaning[/*:m:17bcb] ABS sensors might need replacing[/*:m:17bcb] Brake fluid level is low[/*:m:17bcb] ABS control unit might need replacing[/*:m:17bcb] Brake pedal sensor might need replacing In general, if the light is on and it isn’t one of the top 3 faults above, it could be an expensive thing to fix. An abs light that refuses to go out may also be due to a faulty ignition switch, or, heaven forbid, a faulty abs pump (expect to pay £750 for a reconditioned one - a new one is over a grand from the stealers) [/*:m:17bcb] Check for seized rear brake calipers as this is a common fault (although easily rectified) Engine The important thing with any engine is regular oil changes with decent oil. Also Check: [/*:m:17bcb] Oil cap(mayo) [/*:m:17bcb] Water (mayo) [/*:m:17bcb] Oil filter (should be VW or Bosch) [/*:m:17bcb] Timing belt (all belts when serviced) has been changed. (Excludes VR6's) [/*:m:17bcb] Check oil level & colour [/*:m:17bcb] Engine noise (tappets and knocking) [/*:m:17bcb] Smoke from exhaust [/*:m:17bcb] Oil leaks – after a drive, check for any signs of oil leaks. [/*:m:17bcb] Listen out for noisy fuel pumps Gearbox [/*:m:17bcb] Difficulty engaging gears - mainly 2nd and 1st when cold Exhaust [/*:m:17bcb] As with any car, check for any signs of the exhaust knocking/rubbing against the underside of the car or listen for any signs of the exhaust blowing (hole in the exhaust) The standard exhaust is heavy and runs close to the rear axle and so a knocking from the rear on dips/bumps might be fixed with new rubbers Electrics [/*:m:17bcb] Lights – Corrado lights are poor. An uprated headlight loom (can be made for £10 or bought for £50) would be a bonus [/*:m:17bcb] Heater – does it function on all settings? [/*:m:17bcb] Heated windows/mirrors/washer jets [/*:m:17bcb] MFA computer (check mileage), and that all functions work: Time, Miles traveled, Time elapsed, Average speed, Average MPG, Oil temp, Outside Temp Also check that the MFA is not flashing or that it doesn't rest itself once the ignition is turned off. Both are signs of clocking. [/*:m:17bcb] Electric windows [/*:m:17bcb] Electric Mirrors [/*:m:17bcb] Rear spoiler – Does it work when standing and automatically when moving (45mph is the most common ‘raise’ speed (should lower at under 10mph)) [/*:m:17bcb] Alarm/immobilizer [/*:m:17bcb] Does the stereo automatically switch on and off with the ignition Driving Make sure: [/*:m:17bcb] Doesn’t pull to the side when driving or breaking. [/*:m:17bcb] Engine performs as it should (G60 – low down pull, VR6/16V’s better pull at higher revs) [/*:m:17bcb] Any knocking, droning, clunking or any other noises [/*:m:17bcb] Squeaks from belts such as power steering belt Check documentation [/*:m:17bcb] Log book (No. of owners) [/*:m:17bcb] Service receipts [/*:m:17bcb] Dealer stamps in service book [/*:m:17bcb] Check that the History corresponds with/backs up the mileage VR6 specific checks [/*:m:17bcb] Listen for any noise from the timing chain. Slight noise (rattle) can be acceptable. The guides and tensioner can need replacing once mileage approaches 80k+. £200 for parts alone and it’s quite labour intensive as it can be worth doing the clutch whilst you’re at it. [/*:m:17bcb] VR6’s generally have a rough idle. Check that the idle isn’t overly erratic. UK and Euro VR6 engines should have the ABV engine code which is the 2.9 litre engine. Golfs and USA VR6's (SLC for USA Corrado) are fitted with 2.8 litre versions The UK 'Storm' model [/*:m:17bcb] Only from April 1995 onwards. Some were registered later than N-reg, however.[/*:m:17bcb] Only Classic Green with beige leather or Mystic Blue with black leather [/*:m:17bcb] 250 of each colour[/*:m:17bcb] The log book will not identify the car as a Storm[/*:m:17bcb] Colour coded grill[/*:m:17bcb] BBS Solitudes G60 specific checks [/*:m:17bcb] Has charger been rebuilt? This can be one of the most important (read: expensive) things to make sure has been done properly. [/*:m:17bcb] Remove the big charger outlet pipe and check for oil. [/*:m:17bcb] G60 boost check Do you know how to test your boost levels? Start Motor [/*:m:17bcb] Move the MFA selector to "2" [/*:m:17bcb] Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) [/*:m:17bcb] Stop motor [/*:m:17bcb] Start Motor [/*:m:17bcb] Release the MFA end button. [/*:m:17bcb] Press the MFA End button one time. [/*:m:17bcb] For UK cars, you should now see 450-470 (warm engine) fluctuating with idle. [/*:m:17bcb] Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. [/*:m:17bcb] A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! [/*:m:17bcb] USA EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 15 200 -23.7 55 400 -17.8 90 600 -11.9 127 800 -5.9 148 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 172 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 192 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 211 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 228 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 242 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 255 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) 255 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 242 on the ecu Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended[/*:m:17bcb] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted November 10, 2003 ok tom quite a informative topic you've got started there others i can think of in no order of importance are *all VR6's and 2.0 16v's should have abs and traction control as standard *although you mention it later on..........under the timing belts you should perhaps stress "exl VR6's" *All euro-spec and UK model VR6's should have the ABV engine-coded VR6 unit *pedal switch can also be an abs problem area *the thermal fuse remedy for the heater blowing only on setting 4 *storms only from April 1995 and classic green/beige leather and mystic blue/black leather only colour combos for a storm and UK market only *headlights for early models are £60+vat and £99+vat for later complete units *dusty mauve-campaign-only colour and mystic blue storm-only colour *all 4 cylinder(2.0 8v,1.8 16v,2.0 16v and 1.8 G60) models have 4-stud hubs and all VR6's have 5-stud hubs *both 16v's and 2.0 8v's have 256mm front discs(4 stud) *G60 and VR6 both have 280mm front discs(4/5 stud) thats all i can think of matey and good luck with it......looks like it'll be an essential guide to have Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 0 Posted November 10, 2003 Thanks a lot for the input Rodders. Exactly the sort of stuff I'm after! I know it's a lot to trawl though, and obviously what is probably stopping most people from contributing, but hey ho. I'll update tomorrow as it's getting a bit late now. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted November 10, 2003 The boost check paragraph :- You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance. This is misleading & should be altered - UK spec cars idle with a reading of approx 450-470 (warm engine). Colours/codes section :- red paint turning a pinky colour is not just limited to VW's, it is characteristic of all red paint - regardless of vehicle manufacturer. Along with Roddy's ammendments, everything else looks okay to me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted November 10, 2003 Yeah.. superb start indeed Tom.. covered a lot of the major bases with that already, so i'll just keep thinking of anything else to put in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted November 10, 2003 Fogs and indicator costs: early fogs: £35 + VAT + P+P from GPC late fogs: £55 + VAT + P+P from GPC indicators are about £50 new from VW, but can be had from scrap yards more commonly than "good" fog lamps. 2nd hand they seem to fetch about £25 the pair. For me (speaking as a purist) I'd like to see less emphasis on the "a good set of coilovers .." bit. Nothing wrong with stock suspension, and chances are if you find a car with good stock suspension it's likely to have been driven less hard than one with coilovers... Same goes for big alloys, blue LED windscreen squirters, etc, etc... :) Good plan, however. One thing though - this could wind up too critical. Given that every Corrado on the road is now 7+ years old, it's going to be pretty much impossible to find one where EVERYTHING is perfect, so it'd be useful to concentrate on the main things. It's a lot to remember when you're going to look at a car aswell... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhatVR6 0 Posted November 10, 2003 dON'T FORGET THOS LOVERLY SEAMS IN THE BOOT FLOOR...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 0 Posted November 10, 2003 Steve, Re the boost-check - this is just something I had copied into the guide as it seemed to help someone in the past. I think if the information in it is going to be open to criticism, then it's probably best to remove it. I'm sure if some of the G60 experts want to come up with a UK/USA/Euro version, then this would be much appreciated. :?: Re the Colour - I didn't say that the fading reds was unique to VW ;), but I can add a little bit in so that Volkswagen feel a little better :) Cheers Jim:) Dr Mat, Fogs and Indicator prices - Cheers, very useful. Suspension - Noted, I will try and shift the emphasis onto finding a car with a good standard setup. I considered adding that if the car had neon washer jets, that you should walk away ;) Re guide comments in general - I was also thinking this when I was starting out. Do you have as much info as possible and leave out the 'assumed' car-checking advice? Or do you include everything you can think of that you might check when buying a Corrado? You say 'the main things' - what do you think the guide could do without, in that case? Cheers Phat, and thanks again everyone else - keep them coming Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J a m e s 0 Posted November 10, 2003 The boost check paragraph :- You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance. This is misleading & should be altered - UK spec cars idle with a reading of approx 450-470 (warm engine). thats a great check list VR6, i agree with this perhaps change to idle around 400-500?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 0 Posted November 10, 2003 The boost check paragraph :- You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance. This is misleading & should be altered - UK spec cars idle with a reading of approx 450-470 (warm engine). thats a great check list VR6, i agree with this perhaps change to idle around 400-500?? Re the boost-check - this is just something I had copied into the guide as it seemed to help someone in the past. I think if the information in it is going to be open to criticism, then it's probably best to remove it. I'm sure if some of the G60 experts want to come up with a UK/USA/Euro version, then this would be much appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pastymuncher 0 Posted November 10, 2003 This looks really useful. Just a few suggestions, so please feel free to ignore if not what you're after. This is based on my experience of late VR6's, so may not be applicable to all models. Re damp carpet in the footwells - if its passenger side (RHD) check that leaves, pine needles etc have not blocked the drains by the bulkhead, as in hard rain the bulkhead area can fill up and overflow into the ventilation intake. Happened to me and was cheap to fix. Check the headlight switch action is smooth and accurate - they run warm and this can make the plastic brittle. If its notchy or wobbly, it could be about to snap inside and a new one is expensive. Used one less so but rare. Alternative is a bottle of superglue and a quiet night in. The standard exhaust is heavy and runs close to the rear axle and so a knocking from the rear on dips/bumps might be fixed with new rubbers. An abs light that refuses to go out may also be due to a faulty ignition switch, or, heaven forbid, a faulty abs pump (expect to pay £750 for a reconditioned one - a new one is over a grand from the stealers). David Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 0 Posted November 10, 2003 Great stuff - thanks David. Amendments made. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vondribbley 0 Posted November 10, 2003 perhaps you should be more explicit on sunroof failure i.e. scratch marks on top of sun roof are a good indication of imminent or previous failure. Any stiffness in closure of slide is a good indication as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vondribbley 0 Posted November 10, 2003 and first aid kit / warning triangle i.e. the first aid kit can be found behind the centre arm rest and the warning triangle found within the arm rest Replacements are £30 for the first aid kit and £20 for the warning triangle from the stealers. (If still available?) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spykee 0 Posted November 10, 2003 great idea this! there are a lot of things to look for to get a good c and im sure there will be a lot of appreciative people out there! i don't get the bonnet cross sections bit tho so perhaps that needs to be made clearer or have an explanation with it? replacement headlight glass is 22.50+VAT from Euro Parts for both early and late models. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted November 10, 2003 Suspension - Noted, I will try and shift the emphasis onto finding a car with a good standard setup. Re guide comments in general - I was also thinking this when I was starting out. Do you have as much info as possible and leave out the 'assumed' car-checking advice? Or do you include everything you can think of that you might check when buying a Corrado? You say 'the main things' - what do you think the guide could do without, in that case? For example all that detail about the possible ABS failures - just a one liner would suffice: "ABS light - if this stays lit (or doesn't light at all when the engine is started) it could be a simple fix but could be a major headache - walk away if the seller won't get it looked at before you buy." But it's easy to snipe at other people's work, so I think you're doing a pretty good job so far. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 0 Posted November 10, 2003 All comments taken into consideration - thanks guys. At this point, I'm adding as much info as possible so that later on, the information deemed not so important, can be preened out. I have also prepared a chop-down version as a Word document. This would be more useful to take with you for a car viewing, whereas the above list is more of general guide, which includes costs and more detailed descriptions. Could you review the Checklist and let me have any comments please? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60Jet 1 Posted November 10, 2003 check the VIN plate on the cross member at the back of the engine bay matches the log book and the sticker nside the boot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted November 10, 2003 The boost check paragraph :- You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance. This is misleading & should be altered - UK spec cars idle with a reading of approx 450-470 (warm engine). thats a great check list VR6, i agree with this perhaps change to idle around 400-500?? Re the boost-check - this is just something I had copied into the guide as it seemed to help someone in the past. I think if the information in it is going to be open to criticism, then it's probably best to remove it. I'm sure if some of the G60 experts want to come up with a UK/USA/Euro version, then this would be much appreciated. My intention was not to criticise, merely to point out that there are some slight differences between the US & UK spec cars. The rest of the boost check, with the exception of the highlighted paragraph, is valid. There just appears to be a difference in idle readings between the US & UK spec cars. Possibly having slightly different vacuum systems due to the different emmissions regulations. I would leave the rest of the info on there and just remove this individual, very misleading paragraph which does not apply to UK spec cars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 0 Posted November 10, 2003 My intention was not to criticise, merely to point out that there are some slight differences between the US & UK spec cars. The rest of the boost check, with the exception of the highlighted paragraph, is valid. There just appears to be a difference in idle readings between the US & UK spec cars. Possibly having slightly different vacuum systems due to the different emmissions regulations. I would leave the rest of the info on there and just remove this individual, very misleading paragraph which does not apply to UK spec cars. Don't worry Steve, the comment was taken in the context it was intended. Criticism is welcome as well :) I think now that it's probably best to leave out the boost check. Do people actually do this when looking at potential G60's? The boost check information will still be available on the forum but it's probably a bit unnecessary in the buying guide. What do you/others think? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted November 10, 2003 I think now that it's probably best to leave out the boost check. Do people actually do this when looking at potential G60's? Very very important to leave the boost check in there. It's one of the few ways of checking if the G60 supercharger requires a re-build or not. Weak/damaged charger could bump up the cost of a G60 by around £400 !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pastymuncher 0 Posted November 10, 2003 I forgot to add to the Wheels & Tyres section - don't forget to check the condition of the spare. I always forget the obvious ones. David Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vondribbley 0 Posted November 10, 2003 Also under MFA section check that it is not flashing and that it doesn't reset itself after the ignition is turned on and off - indications of clocking Quite depressing this list cos it makes you think of all the things that can go wrong :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vondribbley 0 Posted November 10, 2003 And there's more: Presence of spark plug removal tool under VR6 bonnet - I think that these were present from new Jack set should include - jack!, spanner and screwdriver at least Anything about the alarm system - mine was aftermarket but quite a few seem to have the oem one fitted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 0 Posted November 10, 2003 Cheers Rob - all added. Also added back in the G60 boost check with amended narrative re idle for UK cars. Keep the comments coming :) (Anyone reviewed the shortened checklist yet? :? ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
