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junkie

The Forced Induction 8V Thread

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Hmmm, read a whole bunch of stuff about the CTN box today, and it looks like a winner :D

 

I like the idea of having a box that will deal with the torquey G60 better - not that wheelspin is a big issue for me, but I find the gears are too short and I am always changing through them, and motorway cruising is a bit high in rpm...

 

Apart from the pain of getting the existing box off and a new one on, think this would be a no-brainer.

 

Is anyone on here running a CNC head with their G60? Got any before/after dyno plots or opinions? With my recent inlet (cold air feed) and exhaust (Miltek) upgrades, I figure the head is the obvious next step.

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I went down the VR 1st, 2nd and 5th gear route and am mostly happy with it, hitting around 60 in 2nd which is nice, but 5th feels strange as it doesn't feel that different from 4th until you get over 100

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I'm going to plumb a digital thermometer into the throttle body or nearby area, so that I can take before and after readings... More news when that's all done.

It's been a while, but I have just plumbed that thermometer into the side of the throttle body, and gone for a quick spin to check inlet temps. :norty:

 

Ambient was 14C according to the MFA,

Min and Max for Throttle Body were 19C and 55C at start and end of a 20 minute run

Min and Max for Under Bonnet were 17C and 28C (second reading taken from on top of battery)...

 

After 5 minutes of full boost fun when the oil temp was up (so about 10 minutes from start), the Throttle Body temp was about 47C, and I had to drive slowly/let the car idle to get the oil and water up to over 100C before the 50C+ temps occurred.

 

Will do some more runs like this and keep notes so that I can see how much the phenolic gasket drops the inlet manifold/throttle body/recirculated boost temperatures... 8)

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good work on the temps prodigal!

 

what is this phenolic gasket of which you speak? is it basically a thermal type gasket that keeps the block from heating up the mani, thus keeping intake temps down? just a guess LOL

 

if so how much & where?

 

 

On a side note i have a question of my own.

I have (or will) a G60 with stage 4 ported charger, cam, and chip. My injectors went ka-put, so i decided to get uprated 30lb injectors. Thing is, the stage 4 kit comes with a 3.5 bar fpr i think... :roll: (i'll double check later) Point is, i think that if i used both the 30 pounders and larger FPR then i'll be dumping too much fuel in. should i just keep the stock 3 bar (sure about that one) FPR? :scratch:

 

is there a calculation for these things?

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good work on the temps prodigal!

 

what is this phenolic gasket of which you speak? is it basically a thermal type gasket that keeps the block from heating up the mani, thus keeping intake temps down? just a guess LOL

 

if so how much & where?

 

 

On a side note i have a question of my own.

I have (or will) a G60 with stage 4 ported charger, cam, and chip. My injectors went ka-put, so i decided to get uprated 30lb injectors. Thing is, the stage 4 kit comes with a 3.5 bar fpr i think... :roll: (i'll double check later) Point is, i think that if i used both the 30 pounders and larger FPR then i'll be dumping too much fuel in. should i just keep the stock 3 bar (sure about that one) FPR? :scratch:

 

is there a calculation for these things?

 

yeah there are calculators on the web for these thngs but its bank holiday saturday and so I am too lazy to find one for u.

:)

 

If you uprate your fpr or injectors then you should have a map that takes this into consideration or else you will run rich..

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good work on the temps prodigal!

 

what is this phenolic gasket of which you speak? is it basically a thermal type gasket that keeps the block from heating up the mani, thus keeping intake temps down? just a guess LOL

 

if so how much & where?

You're bang on the money Cheapmods, it is an insulating spacer for the inlet manifold to hold it off the head. :salute:

 

Evoheatshield A2101.JPG[/attachment:22u38g6k]

I got mine here:

 

http://www.evolutiontuning.com/evoheatshields18SOHC8V.htm about $90 plus shipping I think.

 

Think I will have to trim my exhaust manifold back a bit due to the interference fit with the inlet, otherwise the 'pushed out' inlet will clash with the exhaust. They make a thinner phenolic to deal with this, but I bought the thicker one and will mess with the exhaust to get it to fit! :nuts:

 

PS. if you get one of these, the OEM gaskets they provide don't fit the G60 inlet as they have the 'loop' for N/A engines, as seen in the pic above, so order two of the proper G60 gaskets from your dealer/supplier. :wink:

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yeah there are calculators on the web for these thngs but its bank holiday saturday and so I am too lazy to find one for u.

:)

Too lazy to find one but posting on the forum at 8:17am on a Saturday? :cuckoo: :shrug: :lol:

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yeah there are calculators on the web for these thngs but its bank holiday saturday and so I am too lazy to find one for u.

:)

 

If you uprate your fpr or injectors then you should have a map that takes this into consideration or else you will run rich..

 

thanks for the effort :lol:

 

that was exactly my point, the BBM chip came with the uprated FPR (hence programed for that fueling), but since i got uprated injectors, should i only use those and not the new FPR... :scratch: in other words, would i get the same amount of fuel this way?

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taken from the meagsquirt site..

 

 

InjectorSize = (HorsePower * BSFC) / (#Injectors * DutyCycle)

 

for example, a 135 horsepower gasoline fueled 4 cylinder engine with 2 throttle body injectors and 0.55 brake specific fuel consumption gives:

 

(135 HP * 0.55 lb/hr/HP) / (2*.85) = ~ 43.7 lb/hr

 

Injectors rated between 42 and 45 lb/hr would be okay in this case.

 

*BSFC is the amount of fuel your engine uses to make 1 horsepower for one hour. It is usually between 0.42 and 0.58 at wide open throttle. Normally aspirated engines with efficient combustion processes are at the lower end of the BSFC scale [~0.45], supercharged engines tend to be towards the higher end [~0.55].

 

Another way to select injectors is to take them from an engine that makes nearly the same power as your engine will [assuming the same number of injectors].

 

If your regulator is adjustable (many aftermarket ones are), you can also adjust the fuel pressure to achieve different flow rates. Changing the fuel pressure doesn't affect the flow rate as much as you might assume, since it is based on the square root of the pressure ratio. The formula is:

 

 

new flow rate = old flow rate

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Now all that copy and pasting has left me weary.

 

But I'm sure the prodigal one will keep up the momentum 4 u and do any calculations too.

:wink:

Sheesh, it's the boost monkey that does all the calculations in my family :geek: :lol:

 

As he's racing Lambos this weekend ( :p ) you're on your own, sorry :shrug:

 

(Er, I'm still running Bosch green tops too :oops: so not an expert at injectors/FPRs/flow rates...)

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Sheesh, it's the boost monkey that does all the calculations in my family :geek: :lol:

 

As he's racing Lambos this weekend ( :p ) you're on your own, sorry :shrug:

 

(Er, I'm still running Bosch green tops too :oops: so not an expert at injectors/FPRs/flow rates...)

 

I noticed he's been quite lately :lol: guess that explains it

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Now all that copy and pasting has left me weary.

 

But I'm sure the prodigal one will keep up the momentum 4 u and do any calculations too.

:wink:

Sheesh, it's the boost monkey that does all the calculations in my family :geek: :lol:

 

As he's racing Lambos this weekend ( :p ) you're on your own, sorry :shrug:

 

(Er, I'm still running Bosch green tops too :oops: so not an expert at injectors/FPRs/flow rates...)

 

I was just winding u up.

 

cheapmods surely it will be easier just to use the uprated fpr that has been designed for your system,or are you running more boost now ??

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Fitted intercooler and brake vents to my wheel arch liners today:

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf_DSC8590.jpg[/attachment:3tz5tjuw]

And did more runs with my thermometer plumbed in (don't laugh, it's only temporary!):

 

_DSC8579.jpg[/attachment:3tz5tjuw]

New temps were Ambient 13C, Battery 18-25C, Throttle 18-45C rising to 52C at idle... Roughly same 20 minute run.

 

More pics on my thread :wink:

 

Also added 'water wetter' stuff to coolant today, and it barely hit 70C during the speed runs, but climbed to >100C at idle.

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hi after reading the 16vt tread and then finding the 8vt thread i had to join your forum to try to get a bit of help with my next project

am about to start to build i mk1 golf cab with aturbo technics kit( tt kit) i know its not a corrado but i hope you guys could help me a bit

i have a full ttkit bit i would to keep the k-jet for that old skool look but still get good power i,m hopping for about 220bhp ish

so far i have collected

one full tt kit

1 16valve block

a set of s2 pistons ,rods

and alot of other gubbins to asist in the build

the 8v head is fully worked on with cut down valve stems 3 angle seats ported and polished with standard valve sizes as if i put in big valves i cant tinker later the tt manifold has a 5th injetor wired up but its linked to the cold start injector?

can i use bigger k-jet injectors to help me get more power or will i have to fit a coupleof eletronic injetors and a mapable ecu to run the 6th and 7th injectors to get the power i want

the manifoldis a cast tt item witch will accept a garett t25 turbo so i should get a good spool up time

any help is greatly accepted thanks

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In a thread somewhere some time ago somebody posted a link that had all the torque settings for the G60 and VR head bolts does anybody have it or know what they are please.

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tighten in sequence to 40 nM

 

then tighten in sequence to 60Nm.

 

then turn in sequence another 180 degrees (or two 90 degree turns)

 

The sequence is the normal vw 8v sequence as per haynes manual.Does this cover what u need?

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Hi, a little advice please. Maybe when I've had my C a bit longer I'll start giving some advice instead of leeching it! :shrug:

 

Im running a 70mm pulley with a Stage 4 charger and chip, done at Jabba by previous owner. Was considering putting a 68mm on as a relatively cheap mod for a bit of extra power.

 

1) Is this going to give me much of a gain from a 70mm?

2) Would it be wise to change the chip aswell or will a 68mm run ok with current one?

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how much oil is too much oil in the boost pipes :shrug: I have only just had the charger re-built by G-Werks and I'm still getting quite a bit of oil in the boost pipes and I think this is what is causing my starting problems after a hard drive.

 

Next does anyone have a good how to get started converting a g60 to turbo guide? I have a rough idea of what would be needed just wondering if anyone could fill in the gaps and recommend parts / suppliers

 

- turbo

- manifold

- downpipe

- boost pipes

- remapped chip

 

junkie do you have a parts list from Jabba etc, I just figure the g60 has got to be the easiest / cheapest Corrado to turbo and kicking myself I didn't attempt it when the charger needed re-building last :cry:

 

Oh yeah and junkie the pic below looks like there is something new off the vac pipe in front of the throttle body, I was wondering what that was? Also is it a good idea to have the rocker breather pipe going to the turbo intake?

 

4u42052.jpg

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how much oil is too much oil in the boost pipes :shrug: I have only just had the charger re-built by G-Werks and I'm still getting quite a bit of oil in the boost pipes and I think this is what is causing my starting problems after a hard drive.

 

Im not sure how much is too much but last i remember it should only b a light mist at worst.

 

Next does anyone have a good how to get started converting a g60 to turbo guide? I have a rough idea of what would be needed just wondering if anyone could fill in the gaps and recommend parts / suppliers

 

- turbo

- manifold

- downpipe

- boost pipes

- remapped chip

 

 

junkie do you have a parts list from Jabba etc, I just figure the g60 has got to be the easiest / cheapest Corrado to turbo and kicking myself I didn't attempt it when the charger needed re-building last :cry:

 

Just click my sig link mate to see the parts list that i have used and no corrado is cheap to convert to turbo, you will also need the following

 

-Injectors if wanting more power

-Modify inlet manifold

-

 

Oh yeah and junkie the pic below looks like there is something new off the vac pipe in front of the throttle body, I was wondering what that was? Also is it a good idea to have the rocker breather pipe going to the turbo intake?

 

Im sure the new edition on the vac pipe was a mk4 map sensor, and no its probably not the best idea to have that pipe going to the intake but, it stops the oil smell until i sort out something else.

 

]

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just out of interest is the modifications to the inlet manifold just for clearance of the exhaust manifold, heat shield or turbo?

 

do you need the Mk4 MAP sensor or is that just for the Haltech system? This is one area I am unsure about and wouldn't mind some advice on, I have been looking at a Megasquirt stand alone engine management system, but to start with is a stand alone engine management system required or will a remap be enough to get started with a turbo conversion? Is the polo crank position trigger wheel to give the Haltech system a better idea of where the engine is at any given time? Sorry if these are newbie questions but I have only just started researching the engine management.

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