another cenral locking woe

[AdamjVR6 0]

Although im sure by asking this i will look like a right chump,having searched 1st there seemed to be hundreds of posts not matching my specific problem.

 

Basically the central locking works,but only in that when i lock the drivers door everythnig locks,then opens again straight away :?

 

The only thing i can see by eye that is wrong is the door pin on the drivers door is kinda loose but still connected to whatever its meant to be if that makes sense.

 

Its almost like the CL cant quite pull the pin down far enough and so reverts to opening again? is that dfeesable?

This said,with battery disconnected i can lock all doors including the drivers one manually.

 

Any help much appreciated as its MOT day tomorrow,and i have a bad feeling,really bad :lol:

[Yandards 0]

The central locking system uses 2 'triggers' per side to activate it.

 

One is a microswitch in the door handle that sends an open or close signal to the control unit (located on the c/l pump in the r/h corner of the boot) The other is another microswitch contained in the remote vacuum units that move the door pin to the down position and again can be either open of closed but in a permanant position unlike the door switch.

 

First of all I would unscrew the door pin as far as you can and see if that helps, if not then it's not the door pin. Next step would be to take the door cards out and remove the plastic cover panel on the door from the rear end moving forwards until you get to an electrical plug, this should run around into the door handle microswitch, if you unplug this and then get in the car close the door and push the door lock pin down it should lock the whole car. Do this for both passenger and driver sides. If you have a multimeter you can check correct operation of the door switches, the brown cable is common so put a test probe in there, then stick a test probe in either of the other two connectors and turn the key in the door handle, with the multimeter set to resistance it should drop from 1 to around 0 in one key direction, change one of the test probes over and it should drop to 0 in the opposite direction. If you plug it in one side and it reads around 0 without turning the key then that microswitch is broken and is sending a permanent open command to the control unit, just leave it unplugged until you can get a new handle.

 

You should get 11-12v(battery) coming from the car (not handle) end of the connector, IIRC the red wire is the live one so podge a probe in that and select DC volts on the multimeter and ground the other probe on something metal (door rivets are good) Again do this both sides, this will prove the plugs inside the A pillars are connected ok.

 

The final plug to check is the one that goes to the vacuum unit in each door, again unplug each one in turn and try to lock the car using the key, (you will need to reconnect the door handle plugs if they are both ok) if you get a fault with one then leave it disconnected and get a replacement.

 

Another thing to look at if you are not getting any voltage at the plugs is that they are unplugged inside the car (passenger side door connectors are in front of the heater motor, drop the lower dash tray off and follow the loom coming out of the door. Drivers side is up by the fusebox, again drop the fusebox cover, dash tray and unclip the fuse box then follow the wiring out of the door.) Or the red cables join into one from the door handle and lock pin plugs before the bottom of the door, if you have low voltage at the plug then it is likely this has broken down/corroded so it needs cleaning up and soldering to sort it.

 

Hope that all helps, it's fresh in my head as I had to do it all yesterday!

[AdamjVR6 0]

cheers mate,just about the best reply ive ever had to a thread ever :D