Which charged VR6 headgasket?

[Lizard Racing 0]

The headgasket has just started to give a little on my VR and I need a little help working out which to fit. I have a part number for the one I have on there at the moment, which to be honest would have been fine if I hadn't been driving like a cock! The part number according to the label is 21103383N. Ive looked on Etka and cant find this part no. Should I be using 022103383F? If anyone has a better way of sealing these engines up please share your secret. I do have a wire ringed head and copper spacer gasket but I am unsure of its history so am reluctant to fit it.

 

I only need the outer laminates to fit either side of my stainless spacer so thickness isn't a concern.

 

Should I use a sealant? If so which one? I never have before and its something I have not looked into before now.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Try Permatex copper gasket adhesive spray.

 

Spray 2 coats on the outersurfaces of the 2 laminates and also on both sides of the stainless spacer. Wait for it tack, then reassemble.

 

I would torque the ARP nuts to 75 - 80lb, not the recommended 70 and recheck them after 500 miles. Use a known accurate torque wrench, or get yours calibrated / checked.

 

The above method has been proven to hold 40psi of boost.

[Lizard Racing 0]

Thanks Kev.

 

Took the head off today and the bolts didn't feel that tight. I ordered a VR6 transporter metal layer gasket from VW too, £42 though!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It's quite deceptive as there's no stretch in the ARPs (well, a very tiny amount), so they just undo quite easily compared to the old typ bolts....and when you tighten them, 75-80lb never seems tight enough!

 

I'd only ever use the ARP assembly grease too as the torque figures are different depending on what lube you use.

 

I would definitely retorque them after 500 miles, especially with the boost you're running :lol:

[Lizard Racing 0]

Yeah I know what your saying about how deceptive it is, it just feels un-natural. I have had these bolts out twice before and dont remember being so taken back. Will deffo re-torque after 500 miles too. Got some of that Permatex spray off ebay last night, the Yanks seem to swear by it so good call Kev, thanks :wink:.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I also read on ARP's website the other night that their bolts are at their best when "cycled". You know how you have to torque, undo, retorque the rod bolts 6 times or what ever? Apparently the head studs are optimsed when the same process is applied to those too.

 

Mine will have been used 6 times this week when I get the head back on :lol:

 

Permatex is great. It fills in surface imperfections, dissipates heat better and actually semi-bonds the surfaces together when it's heat cycled for the first time.

 

Those thin metal gaskets are fine on brand new engines with perfect surfaces, and actually come pretreated in a thin layer of compound, but on our old motors with coolant pitting etc etc.....that's where the Permatex comes in ;-)

[Lizard Racing 0]

I must have retorqued the head studs nearly 20 times now! :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

LOL! That's how it goes with forced fed VRs!

 

Forgot to mention.... these Victor Reinz gaskets are the best to use if you can get them. You can get them from Germany or the states but I don't know of a UK supplier?

[Lizard Racing 0]

Is that a Halfords professional torque wrench I see? :wink: