Jump to content
Slimg60

Slim's G60 Turbo

Recommended Posts

Think somethings broke :(

Started to run like a sack of spanners.

Randomly starts to miss fire, popping and gurgling, loses power and revs very slow and using tons of fuel. Ordered a new lambda after a quick chat with James at Sub11, see if this works. If not, I'm not sure, perhaps the blue temp sensor :shrug:

I just want it to work as I'm off on a RR day in a couple of weeks :clap:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Epic. Welcome to the world of tuned engines.

 

Is it missing on high revs as well around 6k as when it does that it needs new plugs, I would say they need changing every 5-10k.

 

It does sound like a lambda type issue though. Is it still using the blue temp sender as I thought he haltech uses it's own water temp sender and the other is for the dash water temp readout.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yer, the blue temp sensor has been replaced, so if the lambda doesn't cue it I'll try a source a haltec one.

it's missing throughout the whole range. Plugs should be fine as James replaced them when he fitted the engine and I've only managed just over 2k since then :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool just keep an eye on the plugs though at around 6k rpm.

 

When it does it it is also random like you say and runs poor sometimes it will do it and sometimes not so maybe worth checking still.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool, I'll give them a check. Probably need checking as it's been overfuelling like a mofo so they'll be sooted up I would imagine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Overfueling whilst you had this problem or before?

 

Plugs will def need looking at either way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

have you checked for air leaks?

 

I had similar problems and finally found a split in T piece pipe going from the front of the inlet manifold to the brake servo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool, I'll have to check.

Changed the lambda today and whilst it is better, there is still an intermittant hesitation and popping and there is a hissing sound from round the throttle body area so need to investigate that.

The spark plugs look fine, were a little sooted up but gave them a clean.

Need this fixed as It's less than a week now until my first rolling road.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Were you in Metheringham last week? I think I saw your car!

 

Possibly, I live just up the road in Nocton. Are you from round here?

 

sounds like it could be an air leak after the MAF sensor, which could mean your running lean

 

I'll have to have a look, it's just the fact it's so intermittant. I would have thought an air leak would have been permenant? :shrug:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have a check of the silicone hose on the turbo that is the inlet and out let as they are super fiddly to get on so it might have slipped and caused a small boost leak.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers Simon, I'll give them a check. Wouldnt a boost leak cause this issue all the time? The problem I have is that it's really interemittant :brickwall:

 

Might give James a call, see if he know where to get hold of replacement Haltec sensors as he uses the same management in his Golf I think, and by having a read on here, sounds like it could be what would be the Blue temp sensor, albeit the haltec replacement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Simon,shouldn't the engine management system be abole to give hime some clues?

Can you not log into the haltech with a laptop?

You should have access to different engine parameters including engine temp,no?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I never did but I think it uses DOS to be able to program it. Glenn has the manual now as well so I can't remember what it says about it.

 

From my experience it was only slightly hesitant and intermittent at the aforementioned 6k rpm at the full 1.5 bar on full throttle and it was something that could never be fully cured and is why it went to wasted spark ignition after trying loads and loads of combos of plugs leads and coils and was decided none made a difference except going wasted spark and the OE plugs and leads were upto the job except the plugs don't last too long, which is noted by the car hesitating at 6k which is time for some new ones in there and it does not hesitate till they need changing again. But as you are saying it's anywhere in the rev range then I don't know.

 

I say a boost leak as you say there is a whistling noise and let's say it's a small one, then the N75 valve may sense the full pressure to open the wastegate to stop the boost building anymore then all of a sudden the boost drops and it shuts the wastegate to increase boost that would seem hesitant I suppose. Does it do it when driving a certain way full throttle, part throttle, or totally random. The N75 valves are known to fail so it may be that thinking it has full boost and opening the wastegate causing a jerk/ hesitation to you as your thinking keep going my foot is planted, you see where I'm coming from. I'm not saying it's a faulty water temp sensor but ignore he fact that the blue temp sender does this so mine should if it's faulty as they are totally different systems. Depends if they are known to go faulty James has loads of experience with the haltech as you know so he should know which sensors can go faulty on the haltech and what symptoms they can cause etc. Of it's driveable then maybe worth popping over for him to look at.

 

One other issue dave had on his standard conversion was the engine moving too much on gear changes etc and the turbo actuator hitting the bulkhead which bent either the arm or something which is why I had VT competition mounts all 3 to prevent the movement, am I right in thinking you have a solid front mount, if so then that should rule that out hopefully.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll have to have a good check round for a boost leak, I've had a look as I've just finished work but couldn't see or feel anything. Is there any better way for checking other than looking/feeling around?

It happens at all throttle positions really, and really is completely random, and all all boost settings.

It just goes hesitant, and starts popping and back firing. Would the N75 valve cause this?

The only thing I've noticed is that the 16v fuel pump sounds a little noisey, although I dont know how quiet they are as standard.

I have a G Werks front mount which is still pretty solid so hopefully

Think it'll have to go to James, I'll give him a call tomorrow and see if he can fit it in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Seems like the issue is the spark plugs. Diagnosed this morning at a RR day with my local club.

And I made a massive...........180bhp :( before we called the run off.

 

Before backfire:

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSCF3647.jpg[/attachment:jwtqu5ue]

 

After:

DSCF3648.jpg[/attachment:jwtqu5ue]

 

:shock: :shock: :shock:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nice it can't have been a very long run then. I said take a look at the plugs.

 

I know :notworthy: :notworthy:

it only went to 4k befor the real problems started but it missed all the time it was in boost.

Going to change the leads as well. Are they standard G60 leads with the wasted spark set up?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea standard leads and they have done hardly any miles till you got it. New plugs and leads and it should be fine hopefully. Then you can come visit me sometime I'm still wanting another drive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yer I'll get them swapped and mapped. They were saying it might be worth putting on some 8mm leads. having read up on here though, i cant see them being a benifit. :scratch:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like I said they tried all different combos of plugs leads and coils and they were very expensive too but nothing worked or changed anything but as far as I know once wasted spark conversion was done I don't think they tried different stuff with that as it cured the problem so there may well worth be some benefit but on standard stuff there is none. As the expensive stuff did not work I was never charged for the parts either as I did not have them on so it depends of they are willing to try them without charge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I'll stick some 8mm ones on, if nothing else they look nice :lol:

Do you have the haltch software and lead?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...