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Storing my Rado

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Well i finally got my hands on a Rado that i spotted online while i was in the US (im still actually here) and have yet to see it with my own eyes and it looks like im going to have to return back to the US for 5 more months.

 

So i need to get the car in an ok conditon for it to sit tight but not really sure what i need to do to it to prepare it for such a long time out.

 

Im trying to rent a garage but can any of you suggest all other things i need to do with it before leaving it for that length of time?

 

I have never had to do this before but what i do know is it needs taking off the ground so aviod flat spots etc.

 

Any help would be great friends.

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Get it as empty of fuel as possible as it will go off, disconnect the battery or leave it on a trickle charger. Leave the handbrake off so it doesn't rust in place.

I think the flat spot thing can be cured by letting some pressure out of the tyres?

 

Sure there's other stuff too, but that's all I can think of now.

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try put it on axel stands as to stop any flat spotting of the tyres, and if its gonna be for ages you might wanna drain the oil as to stop it going mankey. depends how long you gonna leave it tho, im sure i read something on VR6oc about storing over winter :p will have a look and get back to ya

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Mine is currently in the Garage at my Folks house while im in Canada: took the battery out of car and stored on an old mat (concrete kills batteries) let some air out of the tyres, flushed and replaced the coolant, did the same with the oil, put cotton cloth in exhaust and in intake, left the handbrake off and out of gear and chocked a wheel. Put cardboard under the car for some insualtion and covered with a tyvek car cover...

 

Going to hopefully get away with repalcing the oil and charging the battery on my return. :?

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Does letting the tyre's down avoid flat spotting then? I use another set of wheels with cheap tyres but i blow them up a few psi, Irun the tank almost dry aswell.

also does oil go off like petrol too? I'm lucky that i have power in my garage so i use an airflow battery conditioner which saves having to reset the ECU when it comes out to play again.

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i would presume that it would stop it a bit, but putting the car on stands stops the shockers sticking. would of thought overinflating would stop flatspots more than under???

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Does letting the tyre's down avoid flat spotting then? I use another set of wheels with cheap tyres but i blow them up a few psi, Irun the tank almost dry aswell.

 

Oooh, I may have started an internet rumor! I'm not sure where I got that bit of info from, so I would definitely check it out before trying it.

Maybe buying some dead tyres and wheels from a scrappy and putting those on would be better?

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Does letting the tyre's down avoid flat spotting then? I use another set of wheels with cheap tyres but i blow them up a few psi, Irun the tank almost dry aswell.

 

Oooh, I may have started an internet rumor! I'm not sure where I got that bit of info from, so I would definitely check it out before trying it.

Maybe buying some dead tyres and wheels from a scrappy and putting those on would be better?

 

You may well be right mate it just sounds a little odd but then some things do :lol:

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Robbed from a post on VR6oc

jays2.9VR6 wrote:

 

Try this out:

 

Before you put your car away for the season give it a good wash and wax job. It is VERY IMPORTANT to always store your car clean. Don't forget to wash off the underneith. After all, that's were most of the rust starts. A good coat of wax on the car will protect the finish against stains if something happens to get on it during the time it is being stored. If you use a car cover, put it on while the car is clean and dry to protect against dirt, dust and possible scratches. DO NOT cover your car with plastic or one of those blue tarps that you can get at the hardware store. It only traps moisture, and trapping moisture between the finish and a piece of plastic will make the paint bubble and rust will begin to form.

# Take your car for a drive and get everything warmed up before you park it. By getting your car up to operating temperature it helps to burn off contaminants in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the crankcase and the exhaust system. NOTE: Don't start your car during the winter unless you plan to drive it or allow it to get up to normal operating temperatures. "Short running" the engine will allow moisture to build up in the crankcase and exhaust system.

# Change your oil and oil filter. Fresh oil will protect the internal parts of your engine better because there are less hydro-carbons and other contaminates in fresh oil. If you would rather change your oil in the spring, be sure to do it as soon as possible after you get the car out of storage.

# Check and fill all major fluids, including brake fluid, clutch fluid reservoir and supercharger oil (On SC's). Also be sure your antifreeze is clean and fresh to avoid the cooling system from freezing or possible corrosion.

# Fill the fuel tank just before you park the car for the winter. (This will help prevent moisture from condensing inside the tank). If you are not planning to visit your car during the winter, be sure to add a good fuel stabilizer.

# Remove the battery and keep it charged. When storing a battery you should keep at as close to room temperature as possible and it should be kept off of the floor so that it doesn't discharge. Store it on a wooden shelf or on a large block of wood (a piece of 4x4) several inches off of the floor to keep it from discharging.

# Put steel wool or rolled up scotch-brite pads in the tailpipes and also in the air-intake openings to keep mice from using your car as a food pantry.

#

# Some say place a board on the clutch pedal rod to partially depress it, that helps to avoid the risk of the clutch and flywheel rusting together. (If you are only storing the car for a few months this really shouldn't be necessary). Never set the hand brake. The brake shoes or pads could stick to the drums or disks or the cables could rust or freeze up during storage.

#

# If you store your car off of the ground, (on jack stands), the stands should be under the suspension. If not, damage to the shocks and other suspension parts can occur.

# If you store your car on the ground be sure to over-inflate the tires slightly. Five to 15 pounds should be enough. Even tires that are new or in good condition can lose around one or two pounds of pressure per month. When you get your car back out in the spring, re-check the pressures to insure against tire damage. Put a moisture-absorber, like baking soda, inside the car to keep mildew from starting inside the cars interior. (From mildew come mold, from mold comes a new interior). If you store your car inside a heated area leave the windows opened about 1/4 to 1/2 inch to allow the air to circulate.

#

# Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar) products before storing your car. They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold. (I did the dash on my Chevelle one time before I stored it and it took all of the next summer to get that musty smell out of the car). Mouse traps or poisons placed around the car is also a good idea, BUT be sure that your dogs and cats can't get to it. Place them around the car every several feet. Leave your sun visors down so it is more difficult for mice to get into the headliner if they do get into the car. NOTE* Mothballs will repel some pests, but the smell stays in the car for a long time. Don't put them IN your car. Bars of soap placed in an open plastic butter tub or coffee can in the trunk and front and back floorboards work good too. They smell a lot better too.

#

# Always store your car on a vapor barrier like a large piece of plastic. Try not to store your car where vehicles will be coming in and out during the winter months. They bring moisture in with them. If you are like me, (somewhat forgetful), make notes and leave them on the front seat or tape them to the windshield to remind you what needs to be done in Spring to get the car ready for the summer season.

# Lastly, be sure you have plenty of photos of your car to look at all winter. Otherwise you'll go nuts by the time you get to drive it in the spring. It also helps if you have some racing games on your computer!!!

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Another trick is to fill a breakfast bowl full of salt and leave it in the cabin somewhere. It absorbs moisture and stops condensation - I've done this and it works a treat.

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Corradodude, you confuzzled me, checked with my brother, the tyres are at about 40 psi on mine, I got the info from somewhere to do that, think it was a write up I found through google....

 

Also went to shoe shop in town and asked for a load of those little bags of stuff that keep moisture out, got a couple of big bags from them and left them on the mats...

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If you can, carpet the garage even if it's some old dinosaur print from the 70's.This will help stop condensation forming on the underside of the car :)

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