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Definitive G60 Timing Belt Setting

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Hi Yanards, great thread on setting the cam belt timing, but I'm a complete newbie at this and this guide is way over my head. Can you recommend a thread or threads that a complete novice can follow? My cam belt definately needs replacing, and I think I should also replace the cam belt tensioner and crank shaft seal while I am at this. I need a simple guide to cover this lot but haven't found one yet. Cheers. :D

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Hi Yanards, great thread on setting the cam belt timing, but I'm a complete newbie at this and this guide is way over my head. Can you recommend a thread or threads that a complete novice can follow? My cam belt definately needs replacing, and I think I should also replace the cam belt tensioner and crank shaft seal while I am at this. I need a simple guide to cover this lot but haven't found one yet. Cheers. :D

 

Hallo,

 

Crank shaft seal is a bit more involved as you will need to loosen the sump to get the aluminium plate that holds the seal in place off. Cambelt tensioner is self explanatory if you have done some before.

 

Without wanting to discourage you but if are struggling with the guide I have posted up on page one then perhaps get a friend who has done some cambelts to have a look here and see if you can get them to give you a hand.

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Yes, you need to set-up the timing dynamically at around 6 deg BTDC at 2000-2500 rpm.

 

I assume you are getting fuel flow?

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Ok so i'm planning on doing this at the weekend. Whats the easiest way of lokcing the crankshaft up? Looks like the v belt bulley will be difficult to get off if its moving.

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I usually use another allen key to hold the pulley whilst undoing the others, once you have been around once and freed them all off then you can hold the pulley to undo them.

 

You can always leave the car in gear too, as you will be trying to drive the crank by turning the v-belt pulley.

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I usually use another allen key to hold the pulley whilst undoing the others, once you have been around once and freed them all off then you can hold the pulley to undo them.

 

You can always leave the car in gear too, as you will be trying to drive the crank by turning the v-belt pulley.

 

Thanks for that. Had a quick look earlier and looks like one or two of the bolts are rounded :roll:

 

Any advice to get them out? Not sure i can get any mole grips in there and no access to a welder.

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Hi mate I've had this lots of times b4,u can use a spline or torx key socket and hammer it in, then undo,hopes this helps mate

 

Thanks for the advice. I've got a 7mm allen key socket i was going to try and jam in there, if not i'll try a larger torx key.

 

Failing all that I was thinking of using a screw extractor, but heard mixed things about them

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Hi mate I've had this lots of times b4,u can use a spline or torx key socket and hammer it in, then undo,hopes this helps mate

 

Thanks for the advice. I've got a 7mm allen key socket i was going to try and jam in there, if not i'll try a larger torx key.

 

Failing all that I was thinking of using a screw extractor, but heard mixed things about them

7mm ent work mate,the best thing I've used is a spline key socket I think it's an 8 mm , I'll av a look 2mo

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Hi mate I've had this lots of times b4,u can use a spline or torx key socket and hammer it in, then undo,hopes this helps mate

 

Thanks for the advice. I've got a 7mm allen key socket i was going to try and jam in there, if not i'll try a larger torx key.

 

Failing all that I was thinking of using a screw extractor, but heard mixed things about them

 

If you can wait by far the best screw/stud extractors I have ever used are these ones: Irwin screw extractors

 

Not cheap but well worth the money and so far they have not let me down.

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If you can wait by far the best screw/stud extractors I have ever used are these ones: Irwin screw extractors

 

Not cheap but well worth the money and so far they have not let me down.

 

Yeah i've heard good things about these, but looks like they only work on traditional hex head bolts, not allen key bolts??

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Nope I've used them on allen headed bolts no problem, some of the hex heads I have had out have been round anyway through rust etc.

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Yea top tip when doing this job... Get new bots for the pulleys you have to remove, after 20 odd years of garages removing and refitting you will find most of the bolts will be rounded they are only cheap and will save you hours of sweat and hassle down the road 8)

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Yea top tip when doing this job... Get new bots for the pulleys you have to remove, after 20 odd years of garages removing and refitting you will find most of the bolts will be rounded they are only cheap and will save you hours of sweat and hassle down the road 8)

 

and when you have fitted them spray a little waxoil over the heads to keep them in good condition.

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Ok so had a go today. What a nightmare!! Managed to get the rounded bolts out, thanks for the suggestions. BUT......... couldn't get the lower cam belt cover off!!! Does the water pump pulley have to come off? Now there's no tension in the v belt obviously and now I can't get the tensioner damper thing back on. Sure theres a bodgy way to do this but tried with 2 of us and brute strength and it wasn't going on. And to top of a really shit day the power steering belt that europarts gave me is 7mm too short :censored:

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Yeah had same problem wiv mine bt no1 gave me any advice,bt yeah u do av 2 take the water pump pulley off 2get the cover off,as 4 the supercharger tensioner me andmy mate made up a jubilee clamp contraption to go around it,it will still take 2 of u,1 2 hold the clamp while uva does it,it work on mine so it shuld do 4u mate

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Yeah had same problem wiv mine bt no1 gave me any advice,bt yeah u do av 2 take the water pump pulley off 2get the cover off,as 4 the supercharger tensioner me andmy mate made up a jubilee clamp contraption to go around it,it will still take 2 of u,1 2 hold the clamp while uva does it,it work on mine so it shuld do 4u mate

 

Ok thanks for that. Wont have time to do the cambelt now anyway as the feckin water pump pulley bolts are rounded too :censored:

 

I'll see what contraption i can cook up for the damper, was looking at large g-clamps to compress it. If not i'll have to fab something up at work

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You can refit the damper on your own without the tooling but you need to squeeze it hard to overcome the spring and give chance for the oil to move around in the damper, then it's a quick push back onto the stud.

 

As for the waterpump pulley, give it a good dose of penetrating oil to try and free it off before hand.

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Bringing this back from the dead!!

 

After reading the whole thing i have a quick question,

 

My timing was set up according to autodata with a timing light so i presume its at 6deg btcd!?

 

The car ran so much better after this so happy out.

 

My question is that my engine has a small bit of work done so will it still be ok at 6deg?

 

Reason i ask is in th2 300 miles sense the ignition timing was set ive developed a slight miss up tru the revs.

 

Did a compression test sunday {125 across all4} and the plugs dont look good!

 

All 4 look like this,

011.jpg

 

Is the issue with my ingition timing?

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mainly mixture that effects the plugs ...they all go black on the threads other than that it just looks clean

 

a tuner would try the car at 6 degs then try more until it pinks , you can do this if you know what to listen for , ideal set up is just before its pinking

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7 to 8 degrees is safe but you must stick to good 98+ RON fuel - maybe worth marking the dizzy at 6 so you can go back to the base settings if required.

 

Try to setup on a hot day if you can, take a ratchet spanner with you and back off if it pinks.

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