dannyboy 0 Posted October 1, 2011 were them plugs in the engine long? the core looks very white in comparasion to lot of the plugs ive gone through.I spent ages trying to get the fuelling right.THe plugs should have a brown tan on the core and white were spark tips are and 9/10 times black carbon on the outside on of the plug. Yours would suggest your running very lean or the timing is too advanced.or your plug is too hot for your mods(highly unlikely unless your cracking 250 ps on standard W6DP0) It depends on the mods you have done to the engine,timing can be effected.Obvouisly the more advance you give on the timing, the faster the flame front right upto detenation which then your engine will pull the timing back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PaudieG60 0 Posted October 1, 2011 Plugs and engine only covered about 500 miles so far sense the engines been rebuild! Only got round to sorting the ignition timing after 200 miles so she was running retarded upto that point. Spec on engine is stage4 charger,68mm pulley,jabba chip,standard injectors and fpr,lightly ported head,piper cam,sprinter intercooler and new bosh lambda sensor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted October 1, 2011 plugs are good then. Are you sure its not the fuelling thats not spot on? Mine stutters a bit when i floor it right after the digi-lag disappers which i can put down to the chip not beening 100% correct for the few mods ive put on my g60.Feels like my car wants to go,then doesnt,then decides lets get going.This only occurs on WOT so mines deffo down to mapping Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PaudieG60 0 Posted October 1, 2011 I may have the same issue but its only popped up in the last couple of 100 miles! Plan is to get the car onto a rolling road once the engine is broken in and get an SNS chip made up after if needed and going on the above looks like i'll need one to correct the fueling Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PaudieG60 0 Posted October 10, 2011 (edited) Got the car out for a spin yesterday,it is a fueling issue. On light throttle all feels good. On part to 3/4 throttle i was getting the "miss feeling",seemed to happen more when i was in a high gear @ low revs!! On full throttle car feels like its being held back! Cleaned down the earths and refitted the g40 plugs,wasnt able to do much else. Going to double check the co pot tomorrow,replace the vac lines and make sure i dont have a boost leak. Edit; turned out to be week spark caused by 3 crap leads! Edited October 11, 2011 by PaudieG60 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STU175 0 Posted May 9, 2012 great guide but i hope someone can settle a disagreement with my mate! if i change the cambelt and do no other work do i have to adjust the timing? if so why? my mate who works in an HGV maindealer and his "experts" he works with say "i dont and dont need to bother with all the unplugging coolant sensor revving 3 times to reset ecu sequence rubbish just change the belt it will be fine" i have shown him all the guides but would be good to be able to give him the technical reason why this is needed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted May 10, 2012 Stuart, If you can manage to get the timing marks to align perfectly then you could leave the timing alone. The reason I suggest that you need to do the timing is that aligning the timing marks is difficult thanks the inner wing getting in the way of your eyeline, if you get the intermediate shaft in roughly the correct place then by setting up the timing you can compensate for the fact that the timing mark on the intermediate shaft might not be in exactly the correct location. As for the HGV crowd, the G60 engine management is very very sensitive to correct timing to produce good power, the reason the blue temperature sensor needs to be unplugged is that you then place the engine into a 'basic' setting mode. As the timing is dynamically set (2000-2500 rpm) this mode prevents the ECU from advancing and retarding the timing during the setup process. The 3 revs information may or may not be relevant (I think it is removed from later ECU code) but it is mentioned on the VW G60 workshop video as part of the process so I have included it the guide. Finally the VW workshop manual instructs you to check (and adjust if required) the timing with a timing light using the process I have previously described after replacing the cambelt; on older distributor equiped engines this is good practice as you never know if the timing was correct before you started. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STU175 0 Posted May 10, 2012 cheers for the reply yan :cheers: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jmccall85 10 Posted September 19, 2014 :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites