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Needles/MFA stopped working

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Thought I'd start a new thread for this.

 

Last night the interior lights stopped working - the gauges, center console lights, heater controls etc. But the window, door, sunroof and headlight lights were still on. The fuse in #3 (a 10A) was burnt out. So I replaced it - and it fixed it - then I turned everything on and the needles stopped working and I couldn't function the MFA. So I had no choice but to drive off anyway - the needles came back after about 10 mins with a flash of the water cooling light (?!). Shortly after that - the lights went out again and I smelt the #3 fuse burn out again - and I've lost the needles and MFA again.

 

So this morning I replaced the fuse with another 10A - checked the rear number plate lights (after doing some reading) - they're fine. Tried raising and lowering the rear spoiler. Fuse still intact. The needles and MFA however and dead again.

 

I'm useless at electrics ... Can anyone please help? I need the car for 180mile round trips for the next week - for family hospital visits. Its not the right time for this kind of problem! :(

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Started this morning - needles weren't working - and consequently the spoiler wouldn't auto rise/drop. But would work off the button.

 

After 20mins of driving they came back to life. The lights worked fine.

 

When idling later in the day - I heard a random buzzing noise that actually sent vibration through the brake pedal... Watching the volt gauge - I could see the voltage dropping wildly when the buzz/vibration occurred. I got out and listened from within the bay and it sounded just like an electrical buzz - louder from inside the car.

 

Seems shortly after this - fuse #3 burns out again - so I think i've found why the fuse is going - just need to trace the wires now.

 

As for the gauges - could it be the battery just not supplying enough voltage through? The battery has been giving me a lot of trouble lately - seemingly being low on charge all the time.

 

Any help appreciated

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Goodness me mate theres all sorts going on there..

 

Have you fitted any audiom gauges or anything else electrical recently to disturb any cable runs?

 

I dont think low voltage from the battery would prevent gauges working, what voltage is it reading?

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Feel round the back of the fuse box and make sure all the plugs are pushed in properly.

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Thanks guys :)

 

A few findings - the gearknob fitted is the illuminated reiger style one - the wire to it was slightly exposed (guessing tape had fallen off it) and it was cutting out the lights when engaging a certain gear. So taped that up - and will see today whether fuse #3 blows.

 

The fuse box is all intact - however its hanging down at the front - shouldn't it be completely fixed and stable? This could be another reason for the gauges working/not-working... But the buzzing/vibration thing - goodness knows what that is - yet to trace it.

 

The only things that could have been recently moved - the gearstick and a power point that replaces the cig lighter (used for sat nav etc). I'll remove the panels and trace behind the dash to see what i find :scratch:

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It does sound that something has been disturbed and youve got some short circuit action going on. Have a good mooch around what youve been working on and fingers crossed you should be sorted..

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The only thing I can think of is the power socket (cig lighter replacement). Its situated in the glovebox and I've likely disturbed something while fitting the sat nav. That buzzing sound is crazy - guessing its a wire shorting yeah - its louder inside the car that outside - and the vibration must be the current going through the dash frame? I'm not great with electrics - so correct me if I'm talking out my a$$! From the bay you can barely hear it.

 

How does the fuse box attach - is there a guide or clips etc that allows it to sit firmly in place?

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Does the buzzing stop when the fuse blows?

 

I haven't got that far yet - everytime its happened while I'm driving. I'm getting there though - will sort the gearstick out and rule that out - then see if it happens again today. I'll post up what I find :)

 

Joe - do you know about the fuse box mate?

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Not sure, never had it completely out.

If you can get the car to the stage where its buzzing then take the fuses out one at a time to see if you can get the buzzing to stop it should tell you what circuit is at fault. (Most likely it will happen with fuse 3 so try that first but its not a definate.)

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Cheers Joe. The buzzing occurs for a second at a time - and its unpredictable - no idea when it will happen. Its a slow process unfortunately

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Its kind of hard to see on my early fusebox but it just hangs on 2 clips on the top but once on is pretty sturdy.

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IIRC the fuse box is just hung on two plastic pegs at the top and one screw in the bottom left corner....

 

Can have a look tomorrow at Stealth if you like, as I've already said in the RR thread, I'll come prepared.

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excellent stuff :) I got it hung on the 2 pegs both of you mentioned. have missed a screw though. after another full day of driving - the lights stayed on and the needles all worked :) I taped up the gearstick wire before setting off.

 

the buzzing/vibration did happen again though - so just need to find out wtf that is!

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I dont have a screw that i know of so somebody else must have removed it previously but like i say is really sturdy just hung there.

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excellent stuff :) I got it hung on the 2 pegs both of you mentioned. have missed a screw though. after another full day of driving - the lights stayed on and the needles all worked :) I taped up the gearstick wire before setting off.

 

the buzzing/vibration did happen again though - so just need to find out wtf that is!

 

It sounds like that could be a bare wire hitting metal somewhere in there, if your voltage drops. Have you noticed if anything shuts off while it's doing this? With my radio it used to do that, and when it would short out the radio would turn off.

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Just to conclude. I checked all of the wiring - everything seemed intact although I took some time to tape up any wires in places where chaffing may occur. I just unplugged the multi connector at the back of the instrument panel and reconnected - its been fine ever since. Not sure why this behaviour would start.

Additionally - the buzzing/vibration is the pedal position sensor. Located on the back of the servo (i.e. accessible from the engine bay) - its a 65 quid part from VAG and 1 circlip holds it in place. Not cheap - but easily replaceable. Glad I didn't fork out for a pump...

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No - thankfully Kev recognised the symptoms and told me what the culprit was - he's had the same thing. Very lucky escape (financially!)

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