cv joints !!!!

[JT 0]

think my drivers side cv joint needs replacing theres a distinct clonk noise over rough ground etc anyone got any ideas wether it's worth paying somebody else or do it myself!! :?:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Depends if it's an inner or outer, inners are easier to replace. If it's the inner one, remember to replace the spline bolts (8mm spline head) x 6 as they are of the stretch variety.

 

If it's the outer, follow the Haynes/bentley procedure but you will need a torque wrench that goes up to 200lb/ft to retighten the hub nut.

 

Clonks over bumps can also come from suspension top mounts. Inner CVs normally click as the car pulls away from rest. Outer ones rumble and clonk during cornering.

 

Kev

[Henny 0]

...replace the spline bolts (8mm spline head) x 6 as they are of the stretch variety.

 

:shock: Live and learn... I didn't know that... :shock: 8)

 

/runs off to buy yet more new bits....

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah...you sometimes live and learn the hard way, like I did!

 

Being a cheap skate during my MK1 16V conversion, the inner CVs went off and on a few times and I reused the bolts. A few months later and during a clutch change (should have done that during the conversion!) I noticed 3 of the heads of said bolts were missing......

 

Moral of the story, don't be a tight arse like me....replace them bolts!

 

K

[Henny 0]

Being a cheap skate during my MK1 16V conversion, the inner CVs went off and on a few times and I reused the bolts. A few months later and during a clutch change (should have done that during the conversion!)

 

:lol: :lol: I did exactly the same when I did my MKI 16V! I also completely destroyed at least 5 inner CV joints in under 3 years and completely destroyed the standard clutch so badly that I had to put a new flywheel on as well! :shock: :lol:

 

I never did change any of the bolts though... :? I'll add that to the list for my MKIs rebuild too :roll: :lol:

 

I may put a different gearbox in this time that's a little less silly in it's ratios... :wink: :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I just used the standard 16V gearbox and 100mm CVs off a late MK1 Cabriolet...never had any CV breakages with those :lol:

 

Never had any diff pins fly through the casing in any of my numerous 020 boxes either, must have been lucky 8)

 

K

[Henny 0]

Ah! That'll be where the problem was then... 1.6GTI gearbox mated to the 1.8 16V with 1.8 drive shafts (IIRC they're the same as the 1.6 anyway!)... That and the fact I was trying to fix it as cheaply as possible due to being a uni student at the time! :roll: :lol:

 

I've never (runs to find some wood to touch!) broken a gearbox yet... just engines... :? :lol: :oops:

 

Anyway, to get back to Fec's question... (sorry mate, kinda went off topic there!) :roll:

 

Jack the drivers side of the car up (on the jacking point of the body, NOT the suspension!) and then, with the wheel off, pull in all sorts of angles on the front strut.... If it moves, then there's your problem... Movement at top = top mount is dead, bottom = tighten it up and replace the balljoint... 8) If it doesn't move, then it's probably a CV joint as Kev described above.... 8)

[JT 0]

cheers guys much appreciated :D

[h100vw 0]

I just replaced a ball joint on my Passat and also a Golf driver. Both had clunks that occurred over bumps.

 

A CV would make protest noises whilst going round corners. Find an empty car park and drive slowly in circles(full lock) in both directions. That'll stress a bad CV joint if you have one. It'll also be speed related and speed up if you accelerate a bit.

 

Gain

[cliveyp 0]

I've gained a clunk on mine too. Not sure if it's CV joint or top mounts. I've found it only happens if on lock (not necessarily full lock) and accellerating (even gently). On contant throttle or lifting off, it does nothing, but hit that power again and theres a slight clunk.

 

Could this be top mount?? :?

[PhatVR6 0]

sounds more like an engine mount if it's on/off throttle related.