Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
aposegil

ABS problem and VAG com not working

Recommended Posts

Hello all

 

Well just finished doing a VR6 conversion into my 2L 16v corrado.

 

Since starting the car ABS light been on. I have bleed the brakes several times and do not have any air in the system now. Have used a preasure bleeder liked used by mechanics.

 

Went to vag-com the car today and wouldnt pick up on anything. Realised that the engine loom side was not pluged in (brown plugs with grey and yellow wire). Once pluged in, read engine ECU no problems. Now its doing the same for the ABS but I do not know I have unplugged the wires as the fusebox has been off. The ABS light on the dash is coming up and staying on so I am assuming the fuse for the ABS is fine and that the ECU is fine. Or could it mean the ECU is dead but still turning on.

 

If I push the pedal all the way to the floor the car does stop it just has no feel at all.

 

Anyone had this kind of problem?

 

Kind regards

alex

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sounds stupid, but have you made sure that all the sensors were correctly plugged back in after you finished your conversion.

 

when i stripped down my running gear recently i got it all back together then had a flap as the abs light came on even though i had fitted all new sensors - upon inspection i realised i had been a muppet and forgotten to reconnect one of the abs plugs!

 

failing that, check all the sensors themselves are clean and free of debris (as they tend to easily pick shit up, being magnetic) and that you haven't accidentally damaged one of them during your transplant...

 

as for the feeling of your pedal, if you have an abs pump (which you obviously do), then that also has bleed nipples located on the top of it - make sure you bleed the system using these and right up to and including the nipple on the master cylinder if necessary.

 

from reading previous posts (see the 312mm brake fitment guide in the wiki), corrado's with an abs pump can be a pain in the arse to bleed and you have to do a really thorough job

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Helllo

 

I have only actually swoped out the engine. So i still have original hubs etc.

 

Ive got to find these nipples on the abs pump and do them and going to try do it witht eh ignition on.

 

The good thing you hear and feel a clitch from the pedal when you turn the ignition on so Im guessing ECU and pump are working.

 

Only other thing I need to do is trace back the wires from the vagcom port and see what isnt connected. That should sort out that problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi there,

 

Does the ABS actually kick in? As for air locks if you can push the peddle right to the floor I would try bleeding the master cylinder and the two ABS pump nipples. I managed to totaly drain all my fluid the othe week and strugled to get brakes until I had done the bleed nipples stated above.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And remember to not have the bias valve on the rear axle fully extended if the back end is jacked up when your trying to bleed them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well both problems solved (kind off)

 

firstly my ABS pump doesnt have bleed nipple but totlay different to my mates VR6 one im guessing ive got one of the annoying ones where it only come on 16v and my year.

 

Also quickly bleed master cyclinder and i have pedal :clap: but goign to do it properly with the preasure bleeder tomorrow :)

 

Also found out why VAGCOM couldnt see the abs ecu. Wire at the back in the junction box had come out.

 

All I need now are two new front ABS sensors oh and a lambda lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
And remember to not have the bias valve on the rear axle fully extended if the back end is jacked up when your trying to bleed them.

 

if the back end is jacked up, then the valve won't be extended it will be compressed, as the rear beam hangs down - look at the way the pivots work on the rear beam. he's right though in that you should make sure the valve is fully open. an easy way to do it is to disconnect the valve from from the rear beam and hang a set of mole grips or something off the pivoting arm, to make sure that the valve is fully open for bleeding

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanx for the info guys

 

I fully know the pain of the rear bais valve. I actually cheat. I can acess the rear nipple without jacking the car up. Not ideal but I can do it.

 

just got to check which ABS sensors I have (with or without wire) and done :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thanx for the info guys

I fully know the pain of the rear bais valve. I actually cheat. I can acess the rear nipple without jacking the car up. Not ideal but I can do it.

 

just got to check which ABS sensors I have (with or without wire) and done :)

 

You & nipples Alex - always the root cause of problems eh, haha

(Give me a ring sometime mate - missed you last time you visited Bournemouth)

 

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Also found out why VAGCOM couldnt see the abs ecu. Wire at the back in the junction box had come out.

 

Which junction box are you referring to here? VAGCOM doesn't see my ECU either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...