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yeti

Removing smashed and seized rear bearing - Garage Wont admit

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After much hassle, the car away for 2 weeks i picked up my car from a local garage (at this moment the garage will remain nameless so if anyone does know can you refrain from mentioning or hinting at their name or location please :roll: )

 

I got 3 miles down the road and the rear left hand bearing shattered flat spotting to the coards a tire in the process as i had to move the vehicle to a safe off road position.

 

Basically there seems to have been problems when fitting the bearings and i am now in the position where i have had to strip the rear discs off and when i fit a new bearing to these at the end of the week i will need to fit them back on again... but i am left with this....

 

BRAKES_14.jpg

 

BRAKES_13.jpg

 

part of the inner bearing has seeminlgy seized to the stub axle :( i have tried using a puller this evening centred on the end of the shaft with the arms gripping behind whats left of the bearing but there is not enough of the lip remaining to pull against... can anyone suggest a way of removing it please as i really want to get the car back on the road again

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I can send you a stub axle? :shrug: Besides that, I can't think of how you'll get that off.

 

Actually yes I can, use an inner race/bearing puller that you'd use on a front hub to remove the bearing fully....or take it to another garage in one of your other swanky cars :lol:

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Jesus - what did they fit!!! - I don't recognise that blue plastic ring at all? - what did they do, torque upto 400Nm with a windy gun!

 

That bit that clips on and cover the bolts by the way should have been changed (VW always recommend it when buying wheel bearings) if it's that rusty as it could contaminate the bearing, saying that, the stub axle bolts should have really been done too and it looks like the splash shield is non-existent - these bits are fairly important really as rusty flakes dropping off can get onto the sensor and cause an ABS fault.

 

You'll want new stub axle's mate - I don't think they will be serviceable after that sort of bearing failure - maybe from a MK3 breaker or ideally new...

 

I would grind / dremel the rings at the back to get them off so you can see the bolts - use a 6 sided socket or Irwin Bolt Grippers to remove

 

Buy new bolts and sheilds (and bearings!!) from VW

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plastic ring is the rear seal for a mk2-esque pattern rear bearing set... probs why you don't recognise it steve! :lol:

 

Good point you made though, stub axles that are scored by bearing failure are paperweights now. Worth picking another up if you have the cash, else I can send you a damage free one for a few quid :salute:

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or take it to another garage in one of your other **** cars :lol:

 

:wave: erm the golf has been in pieces for 2 years and i'm still finishing slowly rebuilding it... the passat was got 2 weeks ago for work cos got a new job where i will now be covering 30k miles a year and didnt fanc ruining the corrdo to get to work and back... C was used daily for the past 18months but now have turned gay! - and have an unhealthy overdraft!

 

cheers for the offer though man, judging by the rusted bolts for the stub axle i wanna try and remove it! i'll take a pic now of the puller i was trying to use, unfortunately there doesnt seem to be enough lip left to remove the remains, the underside is smashed and the lip is broken off, but helpfully the main collar is still stuck fast :(

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Jesus - what did they fit!!! - I don't recognise that blue plastic ring at all?

 

You'll want new stub axle's mate - I don't think they will be serviceable after that sort of bearing failure - maybe from a MK3 breaker?

 

I would grind / dremel the rings at the back to get them off so you can see the bolts - use a 6 sided socket or Irwin Bolt Grippers to remove

 

Buy new bolts and sheilds (and bearings!!) from VW

 

:( i was really hoping not... new discs and bearings were fitted and test driven in the mornign, i picked up on my way home and 3 miles down the road this happened, maybe 10-15 miles did this!

 

The cause of this is still in dispute hence i do not want to make public any names yet :censored: suffice to say i am not happy having parted with my hard earned for what was meant to be getting them to sort it as the old discs were shagged and i didnt have the time to fit new ones before mot

 

i dont understand what you mean when you say the rings at the back, can you explain please?

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i dont understand what you mean when you say the rings at the back, can you explain please?

 

In the second pic it's that rusty thing that covers the stub axle bolts - new ones cost feck all...

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o and there is a reason the rear shield has been removed

 

That won't have caused the failure tho, loads of people drive round without them altho i'd rather have them fitted as VW don't put them on for fun!

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this is the puller i tried to use earlier, i couldnt find a way to keep the arms behind the tiny lip of the remains

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You can't use the splash guards with the 280mm rear discs, they have to come off.

 

As for the little thing that covers the bolt heads, doesn't do anything other than stop the oil seal popping out of the disc, but if it was fitted properly in the first place......

 

I think the company should be named and shamed. Schitt work like that should not go unpublicised.

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I think the company should be named and shamed. Schitt work like that should not go unpublicised.

 

And I'm sure in the fullness of time they will!

 

It's a real shame as they'd done loads of good work for Andy until this. From what Andy and I have discussed and from the photos I've seen (and I guess you have too Kev) they didn't grease the bearing, hence it's untimely demise. :censored: But they don't want to admit it, even though this coming out publically will hurt their busines.

 

Andy I'd probably go along with a different stub axle if the Race is being that much of an ar$e to remove the only other way would be a grinder and then you'd have to be VERY careful!

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I think the company should be named and shamed. Schitt work like that should not go unpublicised.

 

And I'm sure in the fullness of time they will!

 

It's a real shame as they'd done loads of good work for Andy until this. From what Andy and I have discussed and from the photos I've seen (and I guess you have too Kev) they didn't grease the bearing, hence it's untimely demise. :censored: But they don't want to admit it, even though this coming out publically will hurt their busines.

 

Andy I'd probably go along with a different stub axle if the Race is being that much of an ar$e to remove the only other way would be a grinder and then you'd have to be VERY careful!

 

Jon me + grinder does not equal careful results normally

 

O i still havent heard back from the unamed garage.... if not by the start of next week i shall be seekign advice!

 

o and kev they will be named in time

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Classic symptoms of the bearings not being greased,I would replace the stub axle coz even if you can get the race off the stub will still be damaged, I might have one knocking around if you need it.

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Classic symptoms of the bearings not being greased,I would replace the stub axle coz even if you can get the race off the stub will still be damaged, I might have one knocking around if you need it.

 

thanks man, am i right in saying your a mechinic for a living? just trying to get a number of proffesional opinions to go back to them with!

 

The garage have responded to a very detailed email documenting the problem with pcis at every stage (literally if somethign was reoved it was photograpghed to show condition!) with

 

We

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thanks man, am i right in saying your a mechinic for a living? just trying to get a number of proffesional opinions to go back to them with!

 

Yeah Im a mechanic (VAG trained) out of curiosity what make was the bearing? Not that I think this is the problem IMHO there is no way a bearing would seized solid after about 5 miles use if its greased properly not matter how s**t the quality, Ive fitted cheap ones on my cars before and they tend to last about 15k then start groaning...not seize after 5 miles :?

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or take it to another garage in one of your other **** cars :lol:

 

:wave: erm the golf has been in pieces for 2 years and i'm still finishing slowly rebuilding it... the passat was got 2 weeks ago for work cos got a new job where i will now be covering 30k miles a year and didnt fanc ruining the corrdo to get to work and back... C was used daily for the past 18months but now have turned gay! - and have an unhealthy overdraft!

 

cheers for the offer though man, judging by the rusted bolts for the stub axle i wanna try and remove it! i'll take a pic now of the puller i was trying to use, unfortunately there doesnt seem to be enough lip left to remove the remains, the underside is smashed and the lip is broken off, but helpfully the main collar is still stuck fast :([/quote:3s6fdqjo]

 

 

I'm intrigued as to why the word "fast" was starred out :scratch: Reckon VR6 got bored and edited my post :nono:

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I'd use a grinder to take 2 nicks out of the bearing and get a puller in behind, If I couldn't I'd use oxy-acetylene, it's far far less likely to damage the shaft than a grinder, and remarkably easy to use on seized bearing races. Then I'd use emery cloth to polish the shaft up, throw a cheap bearing on and pootle round till you can get a new stub axle and fit your 280s.

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I'd use a grinder to take 2 nicks out of the bearing and get a puller in behind, If I couldn't I'd use oxy-acetylene, it's far far less likely to damage the shaft than a grinder, and remarkably easy to use on seized bearing races. Then I'd use emery cloth to polish the shaft up, throw a cheap bearing on and pootle round till you can get a new stub axle and fit your 280s.

 

 

Then pop over to said establishment to "drop one off though their letterbox"? :lol:

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If it's really that hard to get the inner bearing seat off, chances are it probably friction welded itself to the stub axle when the bearing collapsed and locked up.

they should not be a tight fit on the stub axle as once the hub nut has been removed, the hub should lift away easily with the complete bearing (including the inner seat).

 

i would just grind some clearance slots away so you can get at the stub axle bolts, and replace the stub axle with a new one, then throw the old one through the garages window :lol:

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I would however suggest another make of bearing.

 

Not even the VW supplied SKF bearings (the best available) would last 5 minutes without grease.

 

Blaming their incompetence on the bearing is a poor excuse. I think they're taking advantage of your good nature.

 

I know you probably get on with this company and they've been OK with you in the past, but all they have to do is admit their mistake and no harm's done. But no, they seem more prepared to risk their reputation over a few cheap parts than admit they're at fault. What is it with this country and slopey shoulders?!?! I get enough of that at work!

 

I know the bearings supplied in the Eurospec kit aren't the best, but mine were fine over the 1000 or so miles I did on them before hitting that rock and changing them for some "FAG" (LOL!) ones. So that's some hard evidence for them. You can tell them X amount of people bought those kits, so why is it only you have had bearing failure?

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I know the bearings supplied in the Eurospec kit aren't the best, but mine were fine over the 1000 or so miles I did on them before hitting that rock and changing them for some "FAG" (LOL!) ones. So that's some hard evidence for them. You can tell them X amount of people bought those kits, so why is it only you have had bearing failure?

 

Bet they'll claim "Schdit" luck/ Act of God or whatever! :cuckoo:

 

I seriously can't believe that this company have this Mission statement on their website too!

 

[Mission statement remove by request of Yeti] But you can probably guess what it says! :nuts:

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thanks for the responses guys, i agree completely there is no evidence it has ever been greased, and kev your right i am possibly being to nice in all this but i thought i'd try the polite way first and if they dont respond favourably to the email i have just responded to them with i shall seek legal advice and look to see if i can publicise their name!

 

Hi [OWNER OF GARAGE]

 

I have sought professional advice from VAG-trained and non-VAG-trained mechanics as well as friends who currently work for Automotive OEM's and others who have worked at race teams and they are all responding with the same diagnosis. The bearing was not greased.

 

As I think about this more I remember when I dropped in on the Friday the week before picking the vehicle up, [sALES MANAGER] and [MECHANIC] (the technician) showed me the problem that when you rotated the nearside rear disc it rubbed and did not rotate cleanly. It was assumed that the disc was rubbing on the bolt head of the bracket used to space the caliper out to use the larger disc. However when I removed the disc there were no witness marks on the disc or rubbing marks on the coated bolt's head. This suggests to me the bearing was not greased at this point

 

I have been advised that if the shaft was had been greased and it burnt off there would be evidence of this somewhere and there really appears to be none. I have also been advised that due to the part of the shattered bearing being embedded on the stub axle, the stub axle will more than likely be damaged, and will need replacing as well as the wheel bearing and shredded tire.

 

I have discussed this at great length with Darren, the owner of G-werks, when he rang me on receipt of the email yesterday morning, and the pictures of the greased offside stub axle were exactly what they would expect to see when removing the discs off their race cars. These use the same bearings. He has not heard before of them failing like this, has sold 40+ of these kits to people in this country and had no problems. I can understand that he as the supplier will blame the fitment and you as the fitters will blame the parts from the supplier but I have asked people

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Saving Poo in a paper bag to place on their doorstep, and set fire to! :lol:

 

:nuts: :nuts: :nuts: :nuts: :nuts:

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Good letter mate, you've been very fair with them and forthcoming with the info, so they've got no reason to not help you.

 

Have they employed a new mechanic by any chance? Just giving them the benefit of the doubt here, but some young YTS kid might not understand the rear bearing setup on Corrados as it's a bloody old design! Most bearings now are sealed units and you just throw them on. Even Ford Focuses have sealed rear catridge bearings, so he probably thought "WTF?!!" when he saw your bearing kit :D

 

As well as not being lubricated, I bet the bearing preload was way too tight aswell. All smells of someone who didn't have a clue what they were doing. You can't really 'forget' to grease the bearing as it's second nature to proper mechanics. You wouldn't start an engine with no oil in it?

 

Anyway, let's see what they come up with by way of assistance and compensation :D

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