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Bump Steer - Thoughts on upside-down track rod ends?

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To be fair I need to have a look for some links, I was just browsing CGTI earlier and saw the pic, maybe I should have followed up with some links

 

[EDIT]I've found the thread and asked the bloke where he got them from :grin: Clicky click click click

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just been browsing, CGTI had a GB on tyhem a while back. Cost around about £130 ($197 when the GB was on) and apparently not for road use? perhaps they're not made so well and might pop out on rougher surfaces :shock:

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Awesome, think I'll have to get some of those!

 

If you lower the wishbone and the TRE, it defo will reduce bump steer. It's the angle of the TRE relative to the wishbone that causes BS. Raising the rack will help too, but it's not necessary if you can lower the TREs instead. Besides which, if you raised the rack, say 10mm, you'd have to cut 10mm off the end of the UJ or somehow move the column 10mm further into the car, pushing the wheel closer to the driver....

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I got a response from the guy, those LBJ extenders were £100 a pair on a group buy :shock:

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£100 seems like robbery, they're only made on a lathe FFS!

How the funk are they just made on a lathe? If they just had a round profile, then maybe, but they're not..

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I will post up the pics :salute:

 

Ok, so they're not a hunnnnndred percent made on a lathe...bit of CNC machining too.

 

IM002466.jpg

 

IM002468.jpg

 

IM002459.jpg

 

IM002545.jpg

 

IM002541.jpg

 

IM002540.jpg

 

IM002533.jpg

 

IM002532.jpg

 

IM002529.jpg

 

sorry about wonky pics, i pinched them from cgti.

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I will post up the pics :salute:

It'd be interesting to see how you get a round and square profile at the same time from a lathe. :study:

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would it not be easier, machining-wise, to make a spacer plate on top of the end of the wishbone to mount the existing ball joint to?

- or would that alter the geometry too much?

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Those LBJ extenders look cast to me. The tooling and development costs required to do that costs a lot of money, so he's got to get his investment back.

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I'm still getting fairly bad bump steer on my TDI, other than this I am very happy with the setup / handling... it's just poor roads really that throw it...

 

On the R32 / LCR and other newer VAG cars with sports suspension the track rod ends point up rather than down... this keeps the rods themselves more parallel and (I think) less prone to the effect known as bump-steer

 

Obviously it would throw the tracking out I would think but what do people think about lowered Corrado's running like this - anyone tried it or have a reasons why it wouldn't work??

 

I'm running R32 hubs on my corrado, TRE's pointing up :wink:

 

Yep it has sufficiently reduce bump steer, would be nice upgrade for your TDI.

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Would it be possible to use R32 bearing housings (the iron bit the TRE bolts to) with stock Corrado 4 or 5 bolt hubs, without affecting anything else?

 

I can't remember the exact details of the issues you faced, but you used S3 parts or something and it was too low?

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Would it be possible to use R32 bearing housings (the iron bit the TRE bolts to) with stock Corrado 4 or 5 bolt hubs, without affecting anything else?

 

On first thoughts I would say no, but if you

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i've been thinking all my handling problems are to do with the wishbone angle on mine, -40mm springs seemed to be a massive drop from how it was, but the rear seems much more like -40mm to me.

 

am thinking of fitting some -20mm springs to the front, if anyone makes them.

 

but after having the 288 brakes fitted i notice that coming to a stop and hitting a bump the front end locks up really easily

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springs / new suspension generally settles lower than it should do.

 

not sure about -20mm springs. is there much point?

 

this last line doesn't make sense to me, but then i'm quite tired!

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i know i typed it all a bit quickly :lol:

 

i've found that since i now have brakes that work well, when i'm coming up to a junction (quite slowly) and i'm braking, when i hit a little bump the front locks up and the abs kicks in etc

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Might be because the geometry is being pushed out, so you're effectively getting too much toe in or out and hence the level of grip decreases. If that is the case, then this mod might sort things out. What springs do you have by the way?

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pi springs, they the only ones i could find that worked with late spring plates, i,e: the small diameter

 

something is deffo shit, my car is terrible to drive, one of the brand new vag wishbones with bushes failed big time already and been replaced

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