Window stuck open

[PROVR6 0]

Just picked the car up from the garage to change my squealing aux belt to a proper VW one, turned out it was the tensioner that was faulty, which they changed before I could tell them about changing just the bearing. Still least Ive got a spare :|

 

While driving went to wind the window down and nothing. Got home and saw the window was open about 1cm. Now don't know if the garage left it like that or not as I wasn't looking for it. The window won't go up or down by pressing the switch but I do get a get a click each time the switch is pressed. Passenger side is fine.

 

I tried to see if I could move the window up by hand by pushing and pulling a bit which resulted in the window sticking open by about 2 inches :gag:

 

Ive left it now covered over with some polythene. The window does seem to wobble more than the passenger ie in and out. Is it possible it has come out of its guide and is this easy to fix? Ive had a search which came up with replacement window mechanisms which looks a bit daunting.

 

Has this happened to anyone else as Id be grateful for some pointers.

[Valerian 0]

Your best bet is to take the door panel off and have a look for yourself. Only takes about 5 minutes to remove.

Hopefully the glass has come adrift from the rear guide, although that really shouldn't happen if it was fitted correctly in the first place.

[PROVR6 0]

Thanks Valerian.

 

Ive not removed the door card before but Ive checked the searches and it looks straightforward, so Ill do that at the weekend. If its come out of the rear guide is it just a case of manhandling it back in?

[PROVR6 0]

Getting ready to tackle this at the weekend. Ive found the attached diagram of the workings of the window mechanism and been doing some reading up on the problem.

Door mech.gif[/attachment:k2rsvt9l]

The window is currently taped up and I have a glass suction lifter which I can pull the window up with(struggle to get fully closed though) but obviously falls back to its current location

 

From what Ive read the installation of a new mechanism is expensive and a pig to do. Don't fancy drilling out the rivets and its not a job I feel up to tackling.

 

As a temporary repair, Ill be happy to get my window closed and secure. Ive read that the arms can be pulled back and some wood installed to wedge the window.

 

Does this sound feasible and do you think I will be able to easily raise the window to the shut position with the door card off?

 

Got to say this is a real f****r if this happens as it so expensive to get put right.

 

Ill post some pics of how I get on.

[Valerian 0]

If the glass has shifted out of the rear runner then you'll have to unbolt the glass and tilt it forwards to relocate back into the runner.

I've never managed to shift any Corrado door glass up or down unless the glass has been unbolted.

 

Changing the motor and mechanism might seem daunting but it's actually not all that hard to do.

[PROVR6 0]

The glass does seem to have quite a bit of play in it, ie it moves in and out quite a bit. I guess this could indicate it has come out of the guide.

 

I can move the glass with the suction lifter and force. Whereabouts do you unbolt the glass? Ive attached a pic of what I expect to see when I remove the door card.

 

Door.jpg[/attachment:11u495kx]

[Valerian 0]

If you look at the diagram you have you'll see that there are two bolts on the middle lower edge of the glass (labelled 7Nm in the diagram).

If your window is in the up position they may be hidden. You can still unbolt them but it'll be fiddley because you will have to thread your arms up through the door panel.

[boost monkey 0]

test the motor is working by connecting it straight to the battery with 2 bits of wire. if the motor isn't dead you can get the window back up and then can troubleshoot the switch problem.

 

and no, this isn't dodgy! I've done it before :nuts: like that's some kind of guarantee :lol:

[PROVR6 0]

It does click when I push the switch in either direction, would that not indicate the motor and switch are ok?

 

When you say connect with wire, is just a reel of thin copper wire ok?

[Valerian 0]

The window motors draw quite a current so don't go using flimsy wire....30 amp wire would be safest.

Does the clicking noise come from the drivers side rear quarter panel?

[PROVR6 0]

Im not 100% sure on that but think its clicking in the drivers door.

[Toad 0]

My window stuck part way open when the cable snapped. Then it fell completely open and had to have a stick jammed under it to hold it closed. The cables tangled up in the motor so it couldn't go forward or back.

[PROVR6 0]

TBH Toad, Ive got a horrible feeling thats what Im going to have to do. I can live with that till im a bit more flush with money to get it sorted properly. Was it easy to do?

[Valerian 0]

You can pick up secondhand winder mechanism/motors for around a tenner and to be honest it's not too difficult a job to do.

[PROVR6 0]

Set about tackling this today. Its bloody freezing and blowing a Gale, typical :(

 

Ive come accross a hurdle removing the door card. Ive undone all the screws and removed the various bits of trim. When I lift the door card off the bottom of the 4 clips at the bottom of the door it seems to be attached still near the speaker and I can see a piece of brass metal. (Ive disconnect the speaker wire terminal).

 

Ive given it a good wiggle but don't want to force it. Any idea what's keeping the doorcard on please?

[Phil K 0]

Have you found the hidden screw behind the speaker grill?

[Toad 0]

As Phil says, there's a screw in the speaker surround, pull the grill off and (it sounds liek you have a late car) there will be a screw facing forward at the front of the grille, off the top of my head.

 

A good second hand mech would probably be your best bet, just grease it well before refitting, including taking the coverplate off the motor. and repacking the cable spool with grease. The white grease used when it was built will have dried up by now.

 

You main problem will be removing and refitting the mech. There are a few guides on here, but you need an assistant, and electric drill and rivets with a rivet gun.

[PROVR6 0]

That sounds like the bit Ive missed. Does the circular metal speaker grille just prise out from the front to reveal the screw or do you remove the whole doorpod.

[Toad 0]

Just the circular grille.

[PROVR6 0]

Ok, Got the door card and membrane off to see what's what. TBH its not easy to see anything. I couldn't tell if the glass had come out of the rear guide (do you you have to remove the rubbers at the top of the door in order to tell?)

 

The glass is still in the bottom guide as this moves up and down with the glass.

 

I did notice a loose cable by the window regulator, does that mean its fooked? Pic attached

 

I was able to secure the window by pulling it closed with a glass suction lifter and wedging some wood to stop it falling back down. Pic attached

 

Ive got a couple of questions.

 

1) When pressing the window switch, the clicking appears to occur in both the door and the rear quarter panel. I know the window control module is located here but is there just one, or one on each side, ie one for each window?

 

2)The passenger side works fine, so does this mean that it can't be a fuse or the control module? I don't think there are seperate fuses for each side are there?

 

Im thinking i need a new (used) window regulator but it might be a job for the summer.DSC02386.JPG[/attachment:35oqx5ur]

[carpy25 0]

cables broken only fix is to fit a new mech

 

theres a guide in the tech section here

 

http://the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/E ... eplacement

 

Rob