Genesis Amps (Up front mounting possible?)

[mattnorgrove 0]

Proflie 2 or 4 that is the question.

 

Now I've finally secured a pair of audioscape pods (cheers dukest) I'm soon goint to be fitting my MB Quart Components up front.

 

I may want to add a sub in the future, so I'm thinking profile 4, but, the profile 2 gives 75RMS per channel @ 4ohms, and the profile 4 gives 4x 50RMS @ 4ohms. So I'm inclined to get the profile 2 as this will get the best from the pair of MB Quarts i think.

 

Plus i might be able to mount the profile 2 upfront (undertrays maybe?) has anyone done this? Will it fit anywhere else up front?

 

I wanted to keep the boot as usable as poss so would prob go for an active sub so i can remove the lot should i need to, and I'm fairly certain the only place I could fit a profile 4 is in the boot, so i'm a little reluctant.

 

Any ideas gents?

 

Cheers.

[junkie 0]

It is possible to stuff the boot with ice and it still be useable, just think stealth style and it will also give you a solid floor.

 

The profile 4 can also be bridged into a 2 channel amp for 100w RMS.

[Mark_Storm 0]

Agree with that. If the MB Quarts have separate crossovers you'll use most of the space upfront with those so only place for the amp is in the boot. Did mine with a sub and still have plenty of useable space. Re-did the boot carpet so I don't have to move anything to get to the spare wheel too

 

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=72215&start=15

[mrbeige 0]

Problem with bridging the Profile Four is that you'll lose quality, total harmonic distortion invariable increases when running a smaller load per channel (2 Ohms as opposed to 4). I'd be inclined to use a Profile Two for now, and then get either a profile sub or a Profile Two Ultra, dependant on the impedance of your sub(s).

 

As far as fitting goes, the profile range are as the name suggests quite slim in profile, less that 25mm high IIRC, so building a simple false floor would be quite easy, or indeed more simply a carpeted piece of MDF on the back seat with the amps mounted to that.

 

Audioscape do a very nice sub box (which you may have seen) that goes under the left hand parcel shelf support. I used to have one and then my amp on the opposite side. Plenty of usable boot left.

 

Hope that helps :wave:

[junkie 0]

Because you are bridging it, that does not mean the impedance halves, you can make it see whatever load you want it to 2 or 4.

 

So just found it actually does 2 x 170rms @4ohm bridged. :D

 

Genesis profile 4

[mrbeige 0]

Because you are bridging it, that does not mean the impedance halves, you can make it see whatever load you want it to 2 or 4.

 

So just found it actually does 2 x 170rms @4ohm bridged. :D

 

Genesis profile 4

Indeed, but that depends on the speakers. If you are driving a pair of components, which are more often than not 4 Ohms, then bridging the amp will give you effectively two 2 Ohms on each channel. the fact you get more power is because the 4 Ohm load is across two channels, thus the load is less per channel, allowing the amp to drive the smaller load 'harder'.

[junkie 0]

See what your saying, i know you understand electrical laws more than me.

 

So even with a set of components that are running passive ie through the seperate component crossover @4ohm each speaker, what is the amp seeing?

 

You could also run a component set off that amp active, ie no crossover.

[mattnorgrove 0]

Cheers for the informed replies guys, kind of broadens my understanding a little, prob gonna go for the profile 2, on the rear of the back seat, then add either an active sub, or install an audioscape sub enclosure as and when I can afford to lol!

 

Lookin forward to getting the ball rolling finally, can't believe how hard its been finding a set of door pods!

 

Thanks again chaps! :D

 

Matt

[mrbeige 0]

See what your saying, i know you understand electrical laws more than me.

 

So even with a set of components that are running passive ie through the seperate component crossover @4ohm each speaker, what is the amp seeing?

 

You could also run a component set off that amp active, ie no crossover.

It doesn't really matter if you are running passive or active crossover to be fair, as the crossover will effectively split the frequency for mid and tweeter, thus no two speakers are running at the same frequency on the same channel. When you bridge an amp (not all are able to be bridged) you are spreading the load across the two bridged channels, and you basically share the impedance between the two channels.

 

The difference would be if you were to run two mids off one channel, then you have two wiring configurations that you can use; parallel or series. Given a standard 4 Ohm mid, in parallel you will end up with a 2 Ohm load across one channel, in series you will see an 8 Ohm load across one channel.

 

Amplifiers that have built in active crossovers are an interesting feature. The advantages of using an active crossover is that you are high, low or band passing the frequencies but at line input levels and thus you get very little loss as the 'splitting' of the frequencies are done before amplification, but a good active crossover is an expensive bit of circuitry and for me I find that a dedicated active crossover ( as opposed to one built into and amp or indeed a head unit) to be much better sound quality wise. Passive crossovers on the other hand, 'split' the frequenices after amplification and consume some of the amplified signal in the process, BUT, they have been designed to work with the component kit that you have and thus for normally sound a little better ( when I say better, it's a difficult one to put into words). Passive crossover designs have improved over the years, so for the cheaper end of the market I'd go down that route all day long.

 

Cheers for the informed replies guys, kind of broadens my understanding a little, prob gonna go for the profile 2, on the rear of the back seat, then add either an active sub, or install an audioscape sub enclosure as and when I can afford to lol!

If I were you I'd err on the side of sub enclosure and separate amp, as the generally sound better and can be fitted so as not to compromise your boot.

 

HTH

[Mark_Storm 0]

I agree that a seperate sub and amp can offer a better sound overall but it just depends what music you listen to and how loud you want it. I spent a load doing my old golf only to find I couldn't listen to it above 1/3rd volume and had to keep the bass down or the rear mirror shook so much I couldn't see out of it.

 

Decided this time to spend the money on a proper set of components and decent amp and just a little active sub to fill in the lower stuff. Sub might not be up to much compared to a lot out there but for £80 it's ideal for the job, piece of p!ss to wire in and doesn't take up too much space

[mrbeige 0]

Oh I agree, quality not quantity. Much better to spend your money on a really good pair of components and a smallish sub and a good quality amplifer than lots of speakers and poop cheap amps. A good source helps no end as well, and don't forget to make sure the 'loudness' is not turned on on the head unit ;)