valver, G60 brake upgrade, new parts vs second hand

[Swompy 0]

Ok in the next couple of weeks I'm going to up grade my brakes to 280m and what to know what parts people advise to buy bran new and what parts I can get away with buying second hand.

 

Also have I missed anything that is needed to do this conversion from the list below.

 

Discs

Pads

Calipers

carriers

 

Thank you

[dragon green 5]

You dont need hubs unless your going from 4 to 5 stud !

goodridge hose set are a worthwhile fitment

[Swompy 0]

You dont need hubs unless your going from 4 to 5 stud !

goodridge hose set are a worthwhile fitment

 

Ok thanks hubs removed. I might do the brake lines but they were replaced not long befor I got the car.

[dragon green 5]

new rubber boots for the carriers ?

cheap from the stealers

[aide 0]

are you supposed to replace the disc retaining screw also :D

 

piston rewind tool handy if you havn't got one

[boost monkey 0]

the grub screw only holds the disc to the hub when the wheel is off: the wheelbolts will do this otherwise.

 

And the front pistons don't wind in like the rear ones do.... I guess the tool is still useful though!

[aide 0]

yeh mate i realise that!!!!! i thought it was still 'good practice'

 

admittedly its 3 yrs since i changed my valver callipes but am fairly certain is used a rewind tool - could be wrong

[Jim 2]

Shouldn't really need the caliper tool if you're doing the fronts as they'll start off not being connected to the brake lines and with no pressure in them!

 

Make sure you get a pot of Copper Ease and apply a thin coat to the back of the brake pads and on the mating surface around the carriers, etc to help prevent brake squeal. Obvsiously be sure NOT to get any on the disks / front face of the pads otherwise stopping might become an issue!!

[aide 0]

i thought it was still 'good practice'

 

i'm wrong - just checked the oracle that is haynes - no suggestion that either retaining screw or caliper carrier bolts should be replaced

 

weird how different marques have different rules - had to change both when i did my MB estate discs last month.

[aide 0]

Shouldn't really need the caliper tool if you're doing the fronts as they'll start off not being connected to the brake lines and with no pressure in them!!!

 

do'h am not thinking - good point well made :lol:

[Jim 2]

Aide - personally I think you're right in terms of replacing the bolts. If you keep reusing the disk retaining screw, you can end up in the same situation I'm in which is that rusty old screw's head came off and left the rest of it in the hub - so I can't fit another retaining screw even if I wanted too... :mad2: Having to keep lining up the bolt holes every time I remove and refit the wheels is a complete pain in the ass!

 

Just replace any bolts you're taking off and aiming to reuse - they cost peanuts and it gives you some peace of mind!

[aide 0]

ahh right, that's the reason, a lot of times I'd question this stuff without really thinking about the consequences from a practical 'what if' persepctive

 

suppose you have to change your hub at some point then!

[Jay2 0]

Discovered this problem myself yesterday Jim with the screw. :(

 

Is it not possible to drill the piece out and re-tap the hole? :scratch:

[Jim 2]

Yeah - you can do that mate. I just haven't drilled out a bolt before so didn't want to just "have a go" and f*ck it all up :)

[Jay2 0]

With you at that one Jim. :D

 

Have that 'FEAR' everytime I attempt something on the C. :grin:

[davidwort 0]

are you supposed to replace the disc retaining screw also :D

makes sense as an old one is more likely to corrode into the disk if reused, but a tiny bit of copper slip on the thread is an idea if reusing

top tip, only very gently screw them in, they can't come undone as the disk sits over them and it will save swearing next time you replace the disk

some of the new retaining screws have a star drive centre rather than phillips head, which seems like a good idea too.

[Swompy 0]

Ok :confused4: Thought it was a simple swap but its seams to be getting more complicated

 

Also main question hasnt been answered, which parts should I get new ones and which can I get away with buying second hand :grin:

[dragon green 5]

It is a simple swap !

the only part that could be difficult,is removing the screw that holds the disc on,a good impact driver usually sorts this out, You may find your screws are missing,which will only make your job easier.

Keep all threads clean,especially the hoses, and use thread lock on mounting bolts,torque to recomended figures

You will have a feeling of self satisfaction when done, and it will feel more like your own car

good luck

[Wullie 1]

I had the broken grub screw scenario. Drilled it out starting with a very small drill then a slightly larger one etc. Eventually the heat on pressure of the drilling freed it off enough to let me turn it out with a file tang tapped into it. Took time and a bit of care to make sure the first drill was vertical and centred.

[Swompy 0]

Ok cool

 

Apart from the obviouse ( discs, alipers ect ect) what els should I get, bolts ect etc?

[dragon green 5]

carrier bolts,and the rubber boots, brake fluid,copper grease,torqueseal

kettle, T-bags

but on a serious note, you are worrying over nothing, do it this weekend, and gloat on this thread when your done

if i was nearer id come and give you a hand

[Swompy 0]

carrier bolts,and the rubber boots, brake fluid,copper grease,torqueseal

kettle, T-bags

but on a serious note, you are worrying over nothing, do it this weekend, and gloat on this thread when your done

if i was nearer id come and give you a hand

 

Right ok, I'm not going to do just yet but just wanted to get as much info and parts ready befor I start.

 

what would be the best place to get most of these parts from? VW, other websites?

 

just a quick ponder, how come their is a 280 read brake sticky, but not a valver brakes to G60 280mm one :shrug:

[dragon green 5]

the rear brake sticky is more involved, the 256-280 is straight forward

its practically a straight swap !

discs are the same, but larger, calipers and carriers are the same but a little wider ! only because they use wider pads,

if you didnt want to use your new calipers ,you could use the G60/VR6 carriers and your exsisting pads !

its a straight forward swap, and you will the difference on your brake pedal

[Swompy 0]

the rear brake sticky is more involved, the 256-280 is straight forward

its practically a straight swap !

discs are the same, but larger, calipers and carriers are the same but a little wider ! only because they use wider pads,

if you didnt want to use your new calipers ,you could use the G60/VR6 carriers and your exsisting pads !

its a straight forward swap, and you will the difference on your brake pedal

 

Ahhhhhh right I know there is porbably a bit more to do on the rear brake but I thought that its quick comon to upgrade the valvers brakes it would of had one but never mind.

 

will have to start getting all the parts I need, any good web sites you can recomend?

[Swompy 0]

Black diamond discs, any good? worth while?

 

I've been looking at these ones, drilled and grooved

 

http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=557369

 

along with these pads

 

http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=520027

 

What you think? any other alternatives ( around the same price tho)