how to boost return delete?

[ShabC 0]

hi i've recently bought a boost delete kit not very sure how to fit it :confused4: i got blanking plate i know where that goes then theres the small k&n filter wheres that go? and there was a long rubber hose

can anyone help?

andy

[Riley 0]

Boost return removal - clicky :)

 

 

 

Should end up with...

[ShabC 0]

what about the other side of boost pipe where tbody is do i just leave that hole open?

thanks

[weetos 0]

what about the other side of boost pipe where tbody is do i just leave that hole open?

thanks

yes

[mimjed 0]

id get a t-piece and return the boost from the isv, maintains manifold pressure, without pumping hot air onto charger. made a good return in throttle response on mine.

 

 

dont forget pfte lube every 1000 miles too.

[ShabC 0]

where did you get the t-peice from mate?

and doen't the G have its own oil line why spray lube in to it aswell?

andy

[mimjed 0]

63mm t piece

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/63mm-2-1-2-OD-Aluminium-Alloy-BOV-T-Piece-Pipe-Hose_W0QQitemZ270393710260QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ef4b896b4&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

 

you need 1 inch/25mm silicone hose and 2 1/2 inch/63mm 90 degree (150mm legs i think). i cut out the oil burning sensor on mine and cut the 90 to make the join on t piece. got these from the same company. ash hoses seem good quality.

 

the oil feed pipe does supply lube but your stopping any that returns via the boost return by removing it. cam cover as shown on the diagrams will be replaced by the pipe in your kit which is there to channel oil out of the engine bay.

 

lots of stories about chargers popping and not to delete boost return. keep it lubed every 1k and check the pipe to air filter for oil as this is the most common seal to start wearing first.

[Riley 0]

Running the isv back into the inlet isn't the best idea if the car isn't mapped/chipped for it. Especially as the map sensor only reads up to 1bar. You need to be running a wideband afr set up ideally to be sure you aren't running lean.

 

Edit: I personally don't believe in lubing the charger. Especially if the charger is ported as the lube just builds up inside and makes the porting redundant. :| I can't believe that vw meant for the engine to breathe heavy to lubricate the charger scroll seals, they are self lubricating. Id say its more to do with not expelling fumes into the atmosphere...

 

Neil.

[mimjed 0]

the isv return makes up part of the original return, so in my mind plumbing it across will make less of a difference than deleting it. ive had no problems with running, and lots of people that run this mod.

 

i cant really follow on the lube bit to be honest, it is how it is or why would you fit a run off pipe or catch tank? as far as build up ive never heard of it being a problem or known any to suggest it might happen......get a good few clouds of smoke when you wind it up after lubing.

 

mine has been chipped, but this mod was done long after it was chipped.

[Riley 0]

The isv directly into the pressurised inlet isn't part of the original set up mate :pale: It's missing running past the c/o pot for starters if you direct it into the inlet where yours is. I have done away the isv as a test only, and instead of my usual 15psi, i made nearly 17 psi, but you need to be sure the fueling is correct.

On top of that, the map sensor would first need tweaking to read over 15psi anyway. So when you hear of people boasting about running x psi over 15psi, they should at least have a 1.2bar rallye map sensor fitted in the ecu, or the boost will just be continously bleeding off/recirculating rather than being eaten up which is totally pointless...

 

As for the charger lube, What i mean is that the standard set up stops unburnt fumes venting to atmosphere...It's not there to lube the charger imo. I had to strip down my full blend charger after trying lube and physically scoop out the lube from the ported area's. I haven't lubed it for around 3 years now.

 

Neil.

[mimjed 0]

sorry for the hijacking of your thread.

 

i get that running direct into inlet isnt original, wouldnt refer to it as a mod otherwise. what i mean is it ran as part of the original boost return to the charger, and in that sense was meant to be recirculated anyway.

 

as far as lubing each to their own i guess.... for me its a must.

 

only way to get an answer for sure is to speak to g-werkes or jabbasport.

 

for fitting your kit make sure you use a good sealer on the blanking plate. and check where oil run off will go.

[Riley 0]

sorry for the hijacking of your thread.

i get that running direct into inlet isnt original, wouldnt refer to it as a mod otherwise. what i mean is it ran as part of the original boost return to the charger, and in that sense was meant to be recirculated anyway.

 

Aye, recirculated obviously...

But not to add pressure into an already pressurised inlet system that can only meter so much(15psi) via the map sensor!

Hence where it originally routes being at the entry side of the charger which isn't under pressure, not after the scroll where pressure is manufactured>measured via the map sensor.

 

Im just trying to pass on my knowledge here mate, it's not cool if a piston becomes overly friendly with the block after not having had enough fuel to match the boost.

 

as far as lubing each to their own i guess.... for me its a must.

only way to get an answer for sure is to speak to g-werkes or jabbasport.

There really is nothing to lubricate mate...Think about where you are spraying the lube...At the very most its going to congeal at the edges of the scrolls movement (which shouldn't be lubricated) and just sit there doing nothing, if anything getting in the way of any porting you have had done. But im sure there are plenty of companys out there that will sell you the lube.

 

Neil.

[mimjed 0]

once again i am sorry for this in your thread.

 

There really is nothing to lubricate mate...

 

http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=194923&st=0&p=1717908&hl=boost%20return%20delete&fromsearch=1entry1717908

 

If you wish to run a catch tank then the rocker cover breather will breathe in to this, this can be mounted wherever is easiest in your engine bay. The air will not dump through the ISV breather, it will dump straight out of the throttle body to atmosphere and the noise will be similar to a dump valve but not as harsh.

 

The lube is required once this modification has been done to keep the supercharger lubricated. It is sprayed in each chamber of the supercharger every couple of thousand miles and acts as the lubricant that the charger used to receive from the boost hose.

 

A brushed aluminium catch tank is ?95 and the charger lube is ?16 per can.

 

Rob

 

http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=114969&st=0&p=953480&hl=boost%20return%20delete&fromsearch=1entry953480

 

theres plenty more.

 

advice is all im offering too, but like i said check with gwerks/jabba if you want to know the benefits/risks

 

maybe its time for your charger to be serviced???

[ShabC 0]

isv removel? how too do that do you replace it with something else? is it a gd idea?

andy

[mimjed 0]

generally speaking no its not a good idea. plenty of people me included fook of the c/pot as it doesn't do much once your engine is past 100k. just cut the tube and put an m6 set in the pipe, prob can see it on the pic of my engine bay. although you can buy a 90 pipe (genuine) so it doesn't look butchered.

 

people do remove isv, but this is one of the times as riley points out pistons start bumping the head etc. for me its a step too far but its your car.

 

if you want more out of it go with porting and smaller pulley, chip/remap etc.

 

if your purely after horses then look at g60 turbos.