Farewell N194 DTP Classic Green VR6 - (sold)

[dukest 0]

for the oil leak, given where you took the picture i'd be checking the oil cooler seals too

[MikLSP 0]

Thanks, will have a look. It's annoying not knowing where things are and likely culprits but I guess it's all a learning curve ;)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah good call on the oil cooler seals, that's a common one. It was hard to tell as the picture was upside down :D

 

I'll have a listen to this noise later at home!

[MikLSP 0]

Is it best to take the radiator off to get at the oil cooler or is that not necessary?

[MikLSP 0]

Spent the day working on a few things today...

 

Cold Idle:

Replaced the blue temperature sensor which unfortunately didn't fix the poor cold idle :(

From there I decided to take off and clean up the air intake, throttle body and ISV.

 

Got the throttle body nice and clean, there was a fair bit of dirt gathering around the butterfly.

 

As for the ISV, here's a pic of it very dirty and in the position it was when removed from the car. Should it be fully closed or is that gap normal?

climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfN194 DTP ISV.JPG[/attachment:28oxjpn8]

I was unsure whether it's possible to dismantle for proper cleaning and I just gave it a blast with fluid. Can it be opened up or is carb cleaner the way to go?

 

My cold idle is now definitely improved but still not right, I think the ISV needs a better clean out.

I also noticed a split in the hose going into the breather valve which is no doubt contributing.

N194 DTP Hose.JPG[/attachment:28oxjpn8]

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Stiff Accelerator:

Having cleaned the throttle body I gave the springs on it a good WD40ing as well as squirting a bit down the end of the throttle cable. The accelerator pedal is smoother now but perhaps a new cable would improve things further.

 

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ABS:

I put two new ABS sensors on the front, they were febi bilstein ones from Volksworld in Preston (£20 each) and they fit very well, no problems like people report with the GSF parts!

I'm now getting correct resistivity readings but alas the ABS light is still on :pale:

 

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Oil leak:

I cleaned up a little (as much as I could reach with the car on the ground) around the oil leak and took another pic after running the engine, this gives a clearer view of the leak source....is it indeed the oil cooler seal?

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfN194 DTP Oil Leak 2.JPG[/attachment:28oxjpn8]

 

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New problem:

Oh and it seems customary that I find another fault each time I look so I seem to have a water leak too! This was the first time the ground has been dry for me to see :(

Seems to be coming from somewhere around the thermostat, is this typical?

[Toad 0]

Looks like it is the oil cooler. Noticed mine is weeping from there today. I will take the front off to do mine. Will make it a lot easier.

 

The cracked PCV valve will definitely not help with the running. You can get a new one from Ford cheaper than VW, search on here for PCV valve.

 

The thermostat housings are a well known weak point. There's at least one excellent guide on here talking about how to change it.

[MikLSP 0]

Thanks, it was fiddly enough changing the blue temperature sensor so I think it would definitely be worth taking the front off and sorting both the oil cooler and thermostat leaks at the same time. Is it just a new seal needed on the oil cooler or does the whole thing tend to need replacing?

I'll have a look for the thermostat guide :salute:

 

I was going to have a go at sealing that hose up with some plastic weld as I read VW sell it as an expensive unit, figured it wouldn't get any worse ;)

[MikLSP 0]

Decided to have an oil free day today so left the engine alone and gave the interior a clean up, pics are now in the first post. I think it's looking half decent and I'm so glad I got the leather interior :)

 

Found a host of stuff too including £3.20 in the drivers seat, a mini torch, a key, some plastic which is likely from the broken centre console clips, velcro,and a wizened tangerine!

N194 DTP Junk.JPG[/attachment:1amwzrbu]

 

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ABS:

 

Back on the faults, I read that setting the latency in VAG-COM to 5 would let it communicate with the ABS ECU better and whoever said that was right!

Before changing it I still got the comm error message but after I got the following:

 

00259 - ABS Inlet Valve: Front Right (N99)

35-00 - -

00276 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

35-00 - Please Register/Activate

00285 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

35-00 - Please Register/Activate

 

Cleared and rechecked to just get the one:

00259 - ABS Inlet Valve: Front Right (N99)

35-00 - -

Anyone had this error before or can shed light on what it means exactly?

 

Mik

[barrowfordred 0]

Some clues here - http://www.ilexa.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=19341.0

 

You really do need to get the brake fluid changed.

[MikLSP 0]

Here's hoping it is just an electrical problem...

 

I noticed they were saying that multi-meter power may be too low to show the fault with just continuity testing and that another power source should be applied. I hate electronics so I'm never sure what's right to do, should I apply a 12V power source to each rely, valve pins etc?

[barrowfordred 0]

In a word NO - if you're not sure then don't do anything. You'd be better off with an auto electrician checking it.

[MikLSP 0]

I've no problem checking the continuity and am going to follow that pdf which gives a series of check to do across each ECU pin etc. but as for needing to applying higher voltage/current I wasn't going to do that without knowing what I was doing

[barrowfordred 0]

I've read somewhere about sticking valves being cured by a fluid change.

Now the sensors are OK try stamping on the brakes and checking to see if the ABS does work. :tongue:

[MikLSP 0]

Will do. I'll check as much of the electrics as I can as well though, I'm sure we'll get to the bottom of this eventually.....

 

Thermostat housing, seal and oil cooler seals ordered btw.

[ZippyVR6 0]

Spent the day working on a few things today...

 

Cold Idle:

Replaced the blue temperature sensor which unfortunately didn't fix the poor cold idle :(

From there I decided to take off and clean up the air intake, throttle body and ISV.

 

Got the throttle body nice and clean, there was a fair bit of dirt gathering around the butterfly.

 

 

Where is this blue temp sensor?

 

I have very similar idle issues, Have replaced the ISV but to no avail.

 

Has anyone a part number or could someone please advise how to locate the sensor?

[MikLSP 0]

It's in the thermostat housing on the front of the engine, here's a pic I found elsewhere:

 

Sensor Part No: 025 906 041 A

 

DO NOT do this job unless the engine is cool

Disconnect the power to the radiator fans just to be safe.

Remove the black plastic cover on the sensors (not shown) this unclips by pulling to the right, there are no screws holding it on.

Disconnect the wiring and move it out of the way.

The sensor is held in with a simple clip which is pulled out vertically allowing removal of the sensor from the housing.

Simply pull the sensor out, there is no screw thread and mine was not particularly tight once the clip was removed.

Be ready with a rag to plug the hole as coolant will come gushing out as soon as you remove the sensor.

Make sure that the old o-ring has come out with the sensor, if not fish it out of the hole in the thermostat housing.

Push in the new sensor with a new o-ring and re-fit the clip (I had a new clip too but my old ones are metal and easily reusable).

Reconnect the electics, re-fit the plastic cover and reconnect the radiator fans.

 

All done, it's really a very easy job but also check that your throttle body is clean and have a look for any other splits in the intake or breather hoses etc.

[ZippyVR6 0]

Thank you for a swift and very thorough response. Got the sensor last night, and Ill fit it this weekend.

 

Top Banana.

[ZippyVR6 0]

Update.

 

IT WORKED!!!!!!!!

 

Cheers again for the walkthrough.

 

If anyone is worried about doing this the job took 5 mins tops, and I am no mechnic.

 

I would only add one pointer to the procedure. Even though the system was cold there was still pressure in the coolant. Let the pressure out of the coolant system before you unplug the sensor. I got a facefull of coolant when it first came out, Mmmm bittersweet G12. :lol:

[MikLSP 0]

Oh dear, sorry to hear you got it in the face. Mine wasn't under much pressure and it just poured out when removing the sensor but then again maybe that was thanks to the leaking thermostat housing :lol:

[ZippyVR6 0]

Its all good man, No worries.

[MikLSP 0]

It seems like I've been away from here for such a long time while getting on top of the Corrado repairs!

 

I'm happy to say that some real progress has been made and most importantly that gearbox is now sorted!

 

I've had the whole thing rebuilt due to it having a broken 1st gear housing, knackered bearing which had seized and then turned and a host of knock on effects. (Sorry I don't remember the specifics, just trying to remember what I was told over the phone)

Got a new clutch in there while the box was off as well.

 

It also has a complete set of new brakes. The old one really show how dodgy some "full 12 month MOT's" are!!!!

 

The engine is running better now as well after new plugs and leads and finding a fuel leak!

 

One thing I'm left with is the oil leak though. I thought it was the oil cooler but after replacing that seal the leak persisted. now had it traced to the rocker cover so any advice on that would be appreciated :)

 

Cheers,

 

Mik

[MikLSP 0]

Well the engine running better was certainly a temporary thing! I've had a failed chain tensioner, even though there was no apparent rattle from the chain before that. It seems the chain has skipped a tooth and caused damage to 8 valves! :(

 

More info here

 

Some pretty major work on the way then!

 

I might get to enjoy this car one day...

[barrowfordred 0]

I might get to enjoy this car one day...

 

Bugger - I know what's coming next :ignore: :( :(

[MikLSP 0]

Er, yeah! Here goes.....

 

So, after my tensioner bolt failed causing untold problems [see here] and subsequently a very lengthy rebuild including having the head reconditioned, 8 new valves, cylinders re-honed, new piston rings, bottom end rebuild, oil pump rebuild, all new chains and tensioners the car was finally up and running again. At this point it was still with the mechanic as he had a few other little things to sort out......

 

Yesterday I received a call from him, expecting to hear that everything was now done and I could go get the car back, but no, the news couldn't have been much worse! :mad2:

After the engine had apparently started first time after the rebuild and run very well since, he left it idling yesterday to get up to temperature and await the fans coming on. Suddenly the engine just stopped and would not restart, not even turning over and could not be cranked by hand! :brickwall:

 

He told me he had taken the rocker cover off again to inspect the cams and valves, all ok, same with the chains. Also the sump is off and the bottom end looks to be fine so now the engine has to come back out to find what is wrong.

 

Surely though if either end seems fine and the engine cannot be cranked the only explanation is a seized piston?!

What could have caused this and what sort of outlook am I going to be expecting?

 

It really seems like this car is cursed for me now :(

[mrbeige 0]

That's terrible news. Surely if it is a seized piston, that can only occur due to oil starvation?

 

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