Mk2 Golf GTI Buyers Guides ?

[gregulate 0]

So my time without are car looks like it is coming to a premature end due to work commitments, and I fancy a mk2 gti. I'm possibly looking at one over the weekend - a bog standard 16v which has covered 122k.

 

Presumably a few of you on here have owned one - is there anything I need to look out for in particular ? I've done a bit of research but to be honest this forum always comes up with the most sensible answers.

 

Cheers in advance, Ian

[Henny 0]

rust...

 

Tailgate rusts badly behind the number plate (normally due to muppets using BIG screws to hold on number plates!), around the bottom corners of the window and around where the gas struts attach.

Windscreen frame bottom corners rust badly behind the rubbers

Rear panel around the towing eye (especially under Big Bumper models)

Sills

Wheel arches (under the plastic extensions)

 

Other than that, it's the standard stuff...

Engines should be free-revving and largely noise free (no knocks or rattles) 'cos the KR engines are largely bomb-proof...

The interiors wear on the seat edges, but are normally well put together and simple to fix/replace...

Suspension is basically the same as the 'rado, so pretty easy to work on.

Power steering models are better, but steering should be reasonably light either way (I test drove one once which made my arms hurt just doing a single 3point turn, something was desperately wrong with it! :? )

 

Check panel gaps are straight (you may be able to fall into them as they ain't small, but they should be straight! :lol: )

Check the seams on the rear panel are straight and parallel (if not, it's probably been rear ended)

Check the spare wheel well and boot floor for rust, dents, creases etc...

Check the engine bay inner wings and structural members for creases etc...

 

Most importantly, if something doesn't feel right, as with buying any car, walk away... 8)

[gregulate 0]

Cheers,

 

I've just spoken to the chap about the car again, and he's done planty of work to it. New brakes, clutch, gearbox refurb and has put on shocks from a mk2 turbo diesel saying they make for a better ride - are they firmer or something due to the extra weight of a diesel engine ? Does this make sense to do ?

 

Rust wise there is a bit, but not surface rust - I've asked for photos.

 

The interior looks mint - factory electric recaros happy days. I'm pretty tempted by the car tbh but its 150miles away so want to make sure it all sounds above board before I hop on the train up t'north.

 

Cheers,

Ian

[Mystic Rado 0]

There's an okay buyers' guide at: http://www.matey-matey.com/golf_buying_guide.shtml

 

In addition to all the above, Mk2s have a rod linkage with about eight billion bushes - when they wear the shift can very sloppy, but it's relatively straightforward and cheap to sort out. Door membranes have a tendency to leak, so check for damp carpet - could be the good old matrix as well. Check the heater works properly, they have matrix bypass valves fitted and they simply stop working (or the heater matrix might have failed).

 

The other classic corrosion spot is on the passenger side where there's a grommet blanking a windscreen wiper hole, lots of them go there. If you can, check underneath. Classic problem is someone having jacked in the wrong place, cracked the underseal and rust getting into seals and floorpan - not good, that's what killed my old Mk2 8-valve.

 

Good luck with it. Decent Mk2s are ace. Just bought another 8-valve as a daily, about to get the TSR motor and bits from my old one, so it should fly. Totally different feel to the Corrado, but lovely.

[gregulate 0]

^^^^^^ Cheers, nice one fellas.

I had asked him about the rod linkage problem which was sorted as part of the gearbox refurb apparently. And he's sending photos of all the rust, which sounds like its in completely different places to those mentioned.

 

Just checked the journey though - Bath to Chorley on the train looks like a proper marathon so might be a little far I dunno. Heres the car anyway http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1547876.htm

 

MysticRado - any reason you've gone for 8v's over 16v's ??

[Mystic Rado 0]

Just checked the journey though - Bath to Chorley on the train looks like a proper marathon so might be a little far I dunno. Heres the car anyway http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1547876.htm

 

MysticRado - any reason you've gone for 8v's over 16v's ??

 

Haha, the great Mk2 can of worms, erm, to be honest, first one, I just fancied a GTi and an 8-valve came up nearby that worked for me, then I got a load of TSR bits for the motor plus manifold, exhaust, chip, and it was properly quick for an 8-valve, probably about the same as a stock 16v car, but with a more flexible feel. And now I've got the engine - 1900cc bottom end to go on I think - I thought I might as well stick with eight valves.

 

I've never driven a 16-valve, but they have a reputation for having to be revved harder to really go, though apparently if you stick a 2.0 bottom end on, that sorts that and it's definitely the faster and easier to tune option, but I've got the engine already and the Corrado for when I want to go quicker.

 

So that didn't help much really. The whole 8v v 16v thing gets discussed a lot on the Club GTi forum, but personally, unless you want to tune the tits off it, in which case I'd go 16v, I'd be more concerned about getting a really sound example of either, if that makes sense. They are just really good fun to drive, sort very balanced and chuckable and bit more raw feeling than a Corrado, particularly if they're tuned and have the suspension sorted.

 

Looks nice and clean in the pics btw, and Estorils really suit Mk2s I think :-)

[gregulate 0]

Just been to see an 92 j plate 8v, nice car but had a couple of doubts (sloppy gear change, bit too much rust etc) so walked away. It didn't have PAS - being a 90 spec I thought it should - but am i wrong ???

[rado-steve 0]

Just been to see an 92 j plate 8v, nice car but had a couple of doubts (sloppy gear change, bit too much rust etc) so walked away. It didn't have PAS - being a 90 spec I thought it should - but am i wrong ???

 

Sloppy gearchange will be a £10 bush kit or replace the plastic ball on the shift mech as they wear out at high mileages!

 

Depends on Price........For a Zero Rust MK2 or v.little rust you are looking at, at least £2K Basically if its minty mint an owner can name their price!! My Mate turned down £10K for his Mk2 20VT!!!

[boost monkey 0]

You can find good deals if you're lucky. I've had cheap 16vs which rotted away at the rear, and others which had no rot in the normal places and just some scabs here and there.

 

Don't take advice on the 16v from people who haven't driven it! No offence Mystic! they're not that bad really, have the same torque as the 8v lowdown but more after 4000. They sometimes just don't feel as fast.

 

And yes, sloppy gearchange is only a £10 job and you can easily replace the bushes yourself so that's definitely not something to turn a car down on.

 

TO be honest, the Mk2 and Corrado are a very similar platform so if you know what to look out for on a C you will do ok on a Mk2 (just don't expect electric mirrors and hydro clutches!!)