Gaz's Bordeaux Pearl VR NEW WHEELS!

[Critical_Mass 10]

Had another go, still no luck. i seperated the window from the regulator and it went a little lower but not low enough.

 

Gonna have to take the window out completely, however on my passenger side (not sure abotu the drivers side yet), the window looks like its siliconed into the metal strip that it sits on. Is this right? I thought id have been able to get the window out without the scissor mechanism coming with it.

[Critical_Mass 10]

Anyone had any experience with fitting new scraper seals.

[Toad 0]

Yeah, that's right. They're bonded to the metal strip. I don't think you can remove them with the strip attached.

 

How about remove the scissor mech, then put the glass at a funky angle, and have a fiddle?

[Critical_Mass 10]

ah, the metal strip along the bottom of the glass is only held on by the 2 x 10mm nuts you mentioned earlier and the 2 rollers? nothing else holding it?

 

If so, do you think, even with the metal strip attached will it the window fit through the top of the door. Surely it will, other wise how'd they get it in there?

[Critical_Mass 10]

Well Toad, thanks for the advice. Managed to get he window out and even replace the rollers i bought from Alex on the GB. Gave me chance to clean all the green mossy crap from the bottom part of the window.

 

I rubber is certainly sat better then it was, but was still a job to get it on. I used a bit of a wooden clothes peg to lift the rubber flap that sits on the outside of the car whilst pushing down on the inside. Did the trick i think - ive got a plastic ruler im going to give another go just to make sure its on fully.

 

Though i have noticed, despite it looking better the top of the rubber scraper used to sit level with the top of the door card on the inside. Maybe half a cm higher, but now its nearer 1cm higher, but still lower then it was when it wasnt on correctly. Has the rubber design been changed??? odd

 

Will do the drivers side once the better weather arrives.

[Critical_Mass 10]

Why oh why oh why do i insist on owning a corrado. The story goes -

 

Set off to work this morning, after scraping the car windows free of ice whilst car warmed up. 1/4 mile from work steam billows from the bonnet passenger side and warning light comes on dash. I limp it to work, literally 30 secs. Bonnet up and the reservoir is over flowing. So i close bonnet and let it cool down.

 

I rang my mechanic who suggested a blockage in the system, possible slush due to the extreme temp, indicating lack of coolant and too much water - possible. So after work i put bonnet up, to check level. There's no water in the reservoir so i top it up with some bottled water i had and get to halfords for some coolant.

 

Get to halfords, go to put bonnet up to drain some water and fill with coolant. Guess what! bonnet will not release.

 

I've had to break my grille and have managed to release the passenger side, but the drivers wont budge with the lever. Im gonna get it jacked up and hoping i am able to release it by reaching up from behind :?

 

To release the passenger side i pulled the cable towards the centre of the bonnet, can i do the same with the drivers. Or does the drivers have to be pulled towards the wing?

 

The one thing that you wouldnt want to happen when you need to get to the engine bay!! :(

 

Corrado ownership, dont you just love em!

[Wild-Animal 0]

Hey i am not sure how far away halfords is from your work for the car getting to a high temperature, i had problems opening my bonnet. I decided it was down to the cold tempearure. So i let the engine get up to full temperature and let the car run for 30 mins thats done the trick for mine the bonnet released on both sides 8)

 

That way there was alot of heat in the engine bay

 

Good luck

[Critical_Mass 10]

Hey i am not sure how far away halfords is from your work for the car getting to a high temperature, i had problems opening my bonnet. I decided it was down to the cold tempearure. So i let the engine get up to full temperature and let the car run for 30 mins thats done the trick for mine the bonnet released on both sides 8)

 

That way there was alot of heat in the engine bay

 

Good luck

 

Funnily enough my mechanic also mentioned to let it idle to warm the temp up and it should release. I'll try this. :D

 

Halfords isnt that far from work thankfully as the temp light was still flashing i didnt want them temp to get that high, it prob got just above 70.

 

Cheers fella, ill give it a go, in a strange way i hope it doesnt work though as it will justify me breaking my damn grille :lol:

[1xshaunx1 27]

i put a little vaselene on one of the door top rubbers and nothing on the other, needless to say the one i lubbed a bit went on a lot quicker and fitted better than the one i didn't. i also got them pushed in near the mirrors well got them something like then pushed thenm down trying to sort of roll them at the same time, at times pushing them harder than i was comfortale with considering the cost, but once they are nearly fitted you can be fairl brutal while doing the pushing without messing them up. thought it would be eady when i p[icked them up last week but like you found, what a pid and dont your thumbs hurt when youve finished ?

[1xshaunx1 27]

my spelligs getting worse or my fingers fatter

[Critical_Mass 10]

Got it sorted in the end. Had to jack the car up and push the lever. Once i got the bonnet up i realised the issue straight away. The golf tee shaped piece that goes through the hole of the lever was broken to bit and was on the wrong side of the bonnet release. I ended up having to bodge it for now so i can get under the bonnet if needed. Will have to order a new cable.

 

How much are the cables?

 

Oh and managed to get my coolant sorted. Stuck undiluted coolant in.

 

Cheers for the replied lads.

[Critical_Mass 10]

Got home after having a journey of petrol fumes, well when stationary at least, to find the upper fuel line to the fuel rail had been rubbing against the clip on the lower fuel line where they join the fuel rail to next to the inlet manifold. Luckily no fire :?

 

RAC came out as i was told they put a temp inch or 2 of pipe on the end of the existing pipe. But they just cut the end off and reconnected (great service from the RAC btw). Ive got a price of £31 + VAT for the pipe, which my mechanic says he thinks is for the full length to the tank.

 

Can you get braided hoses to replace the rubber pipes in the engine bay?

[poll250 0]

I got replacement high pressure fuel hose from halfords for about £7 if I remember right, can't recall the diameter you need though!

 

It joins to hardline when it meets the bulkhead.

[Critical_Mass 10]

I got replacement high pressure fuel hose from halfords for about £7 if I remember right, can't recall the diameter you need though!

 

It joins to hardline when it meets the bulkhead.

 

 

Oh really, halfords ey? i take it, its behind the counter and not on the shelf?

 

Cheers Poll!

 

This last 2 months have been a byatch for the Corrado.

[poll250 0]

See page 2 of this for a very full explanation!

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=57809&p=864372&hilit=+halfords+fuel+hose#p862562

[Critical_Mass 10]

Thanks mate! :D

[Critical_Mass 10]

Well, didnt seem to be having much look with cars recently. Been reduced to only one car for the last month or so (i know its terrible isnt it, one car!!!). The girlfriends lupo had a misfire thats taken me a while to get sorted. Luckily tonight i got to the bottom of the issue, it was a dud HT lead that was causing the problem - despite it being a new set from ECP, i will take them back for a refund.

 

Anyway, literally, just as i had just finished messing with the lupo the GF rang saying that car wouldnt start and there were no dash lights and she had to use the key to get into the car. So i shot down to her work to take a look. Immediately knew it was a dead battery that was the issue. RAC came out and checked the battery, it didnt have 1 single volt left in it. So got it charged enough to start the car. The GF is convinced she didnt leave the sidelights on all day, the RAC bloke was willing to go round checking for anythin that was draining the battery. But we put it down to the lights been left on, so we'll see in the morning.

 

Hopefully it will start in the morning :?

 

Shouldnt a battery have lasted more then 4 years, its a Bosch one btw? Can anyone recommend me a new battery, preferably one with a little bit more oomph!

[Philuk 0]

if i am completely honest we have more issues with bosch batteries and big named ones than we do with cheaper ones. i know they aint cheap but MTec seem to be the best ones we have come across and alot of places stock them now because of UKBatteries being the distributer. maybe its because its got such a name for itself that you notice when one goes wrong, whereas if you had a cheap one you jsut expect it.

[Critical_Mass 10]

if i am completely honest we have more issues with bosch batteries and big named ones than we do with cheaper ones. i know they aint cheap but MTec seem to be the best ones we have come across and alot of places stock them now because of UKBatteries being the distributer. maybe its because its got such a name for itself that you notice when one goes wrong, whereas if you had a cheap one you jsut expect it.

 

Yeah it maybe the case. A big name goes against the product sometimes. I'll take a look at the Mtecs.

 

How much does your place do the Mtecs for Phil?

Edited February 8, 2011 by Critical_Mass

[Critical_Mass 10]

Well havent updated for a while. Should really update a bit more regularly, if only for my benefit.

 

Todays adventure was getting the damn OSR brake carrier off the car after my brakes squeaking like mad. It began with a grinding noise, which i just thought was the disc catching the pads as thats what it sounded like. I was wrong, took the calipers off, to find firstly the inner pad was completely worn down to the backing, but the outer one had plenty of meat still on it. Secondly the upper slider pin was completely corroded and was stuck solid. I couldnt shift it and even bent it a little trying to reease it, it was getting late so put it all back together.

 

On the way home (was at parents as thats where my tools are still) and the brakes occasionally squeaking, pressing the brakes stopped it, but it got to a point where it was squeaking all the time and was smoking :-/

 

Today i wanted to try release the pin after a night of soaking in plusgas. Still wouldnt budge. I got a socket on the end and tried to turn it and it was turning, at least i thought - i ended up sheering the nut part of the sligher pin off :oops: So next was to take the carrier off (I believe new pins only come with a new carrier anyway, so i wasnt bothered about the sheered pin). Got the bottom carrier nut off relatively easy. The upper however was a whole different story. I woudnt have mind, if they were the original bolts, but they were off a couple of years ago to do the bearings.

 

After beating it with a hammer, trying an allen key with an extension bar, hell even the irwins didnt work as i couldnt get the gripper to catch onto the bolt and there was no room to hammer it on. In the end i ended up hitting the lower part of the carrier as far up as i could get it to pivot and down again, eventually it loosened the bolt at the top.

 

Not only did i sheer the head off the slider pin, but i also got a pair of large mole grips onto the bit of pin sticking out of the carrier and it would not budge at all. Wll and truely fubar'd

 

Its always a little snag that can set you back hours.

 

New carrier ordered which sould be with me on tuesday hopefully. Getting a set of pagid discs and pads, along with new bearings too.

 

For now im carless and have to get on the dreaded peasant wagon. Hopefully will only be for a couple of days :lol:

 

By the wya can anyone tell me if there should be any movement where the strut is bolted to the trailing arm. The bolt is tight, the bush is in good condition (the KW coilovers that are fitted are only about 3 years old, if that), but got a few mms of up and down play.

Edited August 7, 2011 by Critical_Mass

[Critical_Mass 10]

Another update. I know they're few and far between tbh.

 

Ordered some new wheels on wednesday - those who have read my "recommend me a wheel wax" thread will know that ive gone for the Cades Eros wheels 16x7j.

 

Ive had a pair of Uniroyals sat in the kitchen waiting to be fitted - but i wanted to hold out until i got the wheels. However fate decided i would have a punture on the way home last night. No problem i put the space saver on, got home in hope to find the new wheels. No wheels, i had left a note to leave them with a neighbour as i was at work, but nothing through the door saying they were with a neighbour.

 

Anyway as i didnt want to drive the week on the spacesaver i went to the garage to get the new tyres fitted. When i got home i was fitting the wheels on my car and the neighbour came over and said he'd got my wheels in his garage :lol: DOH! unfortunate considering id just paid to get the wnew tyres fitted to the old wheels... nevermind ce la vie - though i wanted to get some wheel protection on them before fitting anyway - so no big deal i suppose.

 

Anyway here they are - they dont have the biggest of dish on them but a bigger dish than i thought they would have. Im well happy with them - new wheels can really transform a car and the old wheels made the car look a little rough, so the new ones should improve the look.

 

No pics on the car just yet but here's pic anyway - i'll post one of them on the car at a later date :D

 

The wheels came with a fitting kit - so new spigot rings and also bolts - the bolts ive found arent hexagnol like the traditional bolts, but they are "star" like - will a hexagnol socket you get with wheel wrenches work on these or do i need to buy a new socket for my wrench? - see pic

 

[Critical_Mass 10]

Oh and i might add those replacement EBC discs i got sent (mentioned a few pages back), they've warped again. These will be replaced with Bosch or Brembo discs and with pagid pads - annoyingly the bosch pads that are on now were only fitted about 3-4 weeks ago so they were a waste of ££.

[sexybourbon 0]

I really like those wheels mate , there very well priced aswell unlike some wheels that see mega bucks these are great value and a nice design , you need to get some pics up of them all fitted , i would go for 195 tho bud they will look spot on

 

By the looks of it those bolts are gonna need a special socket ! Maybe take a bolt to halfrauds and get a match

[James. 7]

Those really are a good looking wheel. Are they laquered ? Can't tell from here.

 

Be good to see these once fitted.

[Critical_Mass 10]

Cheers guys, i thought they were a good price too Redborbet :D Will 195s look a little thin? Ive just bought some 205s so will run them for a while, at least it'll give me an idea of what the tyres will be like.

 

I'll get some pics up when they're fitted, but first i want to order some wheel wax, which i'll be doing shortly. BUt when i get them fitted i assure you pics will be posted.

 

James - yes they're laquered :D

 

I've looked on the internet for a socket for that wheel nut - cant seem to find one. :?

Edited March 18, 2012 by Critical_Mass