Mawrick 0 Posted August 4, 2010 My C have always been a bit hard to start (although I think before it was due to a bad ignition switch), but even now after the rebuild it seem to be hard to start. I mean - it seem to always start, but one have to hold the ignition-switch on for quite some time before it fires. Also noticed a very small "shivering" in the engine when it runs - doesn't seem exactly as smooth as my older Passat VR6 (have been wondering if the "resonans" maybe get thru the car easier when there is new engine mounts etc). I'v been starting to think that maybe the impuls sender that sits up in the area around the coilpack can cause these problems?. Any tips appreciated - the car does not throw any errors when scanned with VAG-COM The thing I'm talking about is this one: not the G28 sender Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted August 4, 2010 If the camshaft hall sensor (above) was dodgy, I'd expect it to take longer to start due to the lack of cam sync. In which case the engine would run batch firing on the injectors. You'd also see a reduction in power output too. You may experience poor running, but I have no direct experience of a failed cam sensor so can't comment on that. However, VAG-com would 'normally' show a faulty sensor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mawrick 0 Posted August 4, 2010 hmm, ok - sounds like it might be that, as it seem to start every time - but I have to hold the key in starting position for quite some time before it fires - also sometimes seem to smell a bit gas just after it fires up. After the startup it seem to be running ok - even though I have a feeling that the VR6 in my Passat is a bit faster on the rpm when one "revs" - but that might only been imagination...lol (the car seem to be running alright)...:) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted August 4, 2010 It'll defo run ok, just be down on power. Taking longer to fire will be why you can smell gas too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mawrick 0 Posted August 7, 2010 Can it be other sources for these problems that I maybe should check out first?. Heard someone mention the Fuel pressure regulator Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joeshaw123 0 Posted August 7, 2010 I know this isnt going to be much help, but I had this problem in my mk2 VR swap. Always seemed to take a while to start up, and ran a bit lumpy on idle. I coped with it and it still RR'd recently at 208bhp, 200ft-lb. It seemed to start much quicker the first few starts after an ecu reset, which is what confused me and that never threw up any error codes. I changed the crank and cam senders, and the fuel pressure reg on that and none of those solved it. I'd be interested to see where this goes, as I'm going to be VR'ing my vento very soon and I want it to start straight away! It seems to be a fairly common problem though. And Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mawrick 0 Posted August 7, 2010 I know this isnt going to be much help, but I had this problem in my mk2 VR swap. Always seemed to take a while to start up, and ran a bit lumpy on idle. I coped with it and it still RR'd recently at 208bhp, 200ft-lb. It seemed to start much quicker the first few starts after an ecu reset, which is what confused me and that never threw up any error codes. I changed the crank and cam senders, and the fuel pressure reg on that and none of those solved it. I'd be interested to see where this goes, as I'm going to be VR'ing my vento very soon and I want it to start straight away! It seems to be a fairly common problem though. And Alright thnx for that info - got another answer from a guy on the vortex where he had this problem with 2 cars - and both time it was fixed when replacing the FPR........I think I might have a spare one around so might just throw that on and see what happens :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mawrick 0 Posted August 21, 2010 Haven't gotten around yet to replace that sensor or FPR - but could also the ignition switch barrel be cause of this? (the switch itself have been replaced) - and the car cranks, can it still have anything to do with the ignition barrel ?. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites