big_mac 0 Posted February 12, 2004 Hi guys im after some more help/advice if you can give it. I bought a mocal 8 row oil cooler off e-bay a while back and bought the VW sandwich plate etc separately. I managed to get it fitted over the weekend but my problem is that she now looses most if not all of her oil after a short run. For instance last night I made sure everything was nice and tight, connected up the hoses, put some oil in and started her up, she ran a bit rough at first but that soon sorted itself and she seemed back to full strength. I got back to the house topped the oil up, got changed, and went out to test the cooler, started her up got bout 50 yards when the oil warning light came on, took it back round the house and noticed a very large trail of oil all the way up the road from my house, any body got any ideas what’s wrong. is the sandwich plate got to be a certain way round? The cooler pipes go into it from the bottom is this ok? Please help my babys been off the road for about 6 weeks and im really starting to miss her, I have to drive my maws wee 1.0L polo (things cant get any worse) Any help/advice greatly appreciated Thanks Andy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted February 12, 2004 Did you remove the heat exchanger? There should be an O ring between each joint. Oil filter and sandwich plate, sandwich plate and heat exchanger and heat exchanger and filter housing. 3 in total. If you have disturbed the heat exchanger, they often leak nasty. New seals from dealer? Have you damaged the heat exchanger during the fit? Is the nut securing the heat exchanger tight enough? Undoing the filter on mine usually slackens the sandwich plate. It may hold the oil in at tickover but as pressure increases with revs, it overcomes the seal. Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 12, 2004 You could also have overtightened the union nuts on the cooler itself or on the sandwich plate. They literally just need nipping up with some plummers tape on the threads. Due to the large trail of oil, it is more likely to be what Gavin advised. Again, don't over tighten the end plate! HTH K Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 12, 2004 And moved to Problems.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tattie 0 Posted February 12, 2004 Talking to Darren from G-Werks last night at No Rice, he said you should remove the original water/oil cooler first, and get some original vag water pipes (you need 2 approx 8 quid each) to replace/bypass it. Then fit the new sandwich plate and filter otherwise the whole collection of original water/oil cooler, new oil cooler and filter can catch on one of the subframes or cross members. If in doubt have a chat with him. He can sell a whole kit for others that are interested that includes brackets to mount next to rad, pipes etc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big_mac 0 Posted February 12, 2004 no i left the original heat exchanger in place, there was enough clearance to fit the sandwich plate and the filter. does anybody have the part numbers for the bypass pipes, i could just use a bit of pipe but id prefer to do it proper. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beavis 0 Posted February 14, 2004 New coolant hoses, to delete stock oil heat exchanger: 1 x 026 121 053G 1 x 068 121 063M These are the jobbies. Should cost no more than 20 notes from barry stealer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted February 14, 2004 hello there the other reason apart from removing the water heater to allow easier oil filter changes is most importantly the load this will take off the water system allowing it and easier life and al'a cooer running temps.. we never retain the god aweful things when we fit the oil cooler kits for the above reasons and the liking for leaking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big_mac 0 Posted February 19, 2004 ive disovered that the oe heat exchanger is fine and the oil leak is from the hoses, i can get away with leaving the exchanger in place, is there any benefit to this or is it just something else to go wrong Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 19, 2004 The oil cooler is designed to run in tandem with the OE HE, so leave it in place. It also heats the oil up quicker and then once 80 degrees is reached, the thermostat opens in the sandwich plate. K Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kvwloon 0 Posted August 1, 2004 Hmm, bought an oil cooler set up today at Volksfest autojumble, so would like to resurrect this thread for my own benefit now! Basically - 1- On a 16v is it normal to bolt the new sandwich plate between the oriignal oil cooler and filter, or ditch the original oil cooler? Above details seems a bit contradictory. 2- If the original oil cooler is removed are the part numbers of the two pipes mentioned above valid for the 16v, and are they just joined to each other? If so won't a fitting to attachthem to each other be needed? Many thansk in advance. Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted August 1, 2004 ditch the original oil cooler and fit those two pipes... 8) The plumbing's exactly the same in that area for all 4cylinder VWs, so those part numbers are still correct... 8) They replace the two pipes which feed the original oil cooler with pipes without the take off points on 'em... One runs from the waterpump straight up the front of the block and onto the side of the front coolant flange (that black plastic bit which always leaks! ;) ) the other joins the water pump to the metal water pipe which runs around the side of the block... 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kvwloon 0 Posted August 1, 2004 Henny, Perfect, many thanks! 8) ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kvwloon 0 Posted August 2, 2004 Ordered the water pipes today, so that's sorted (thanks again Henny). Final question hopefully- was thinking of cutting a hole in the plastic trim to the side of the radiator and mounting the oil radiator there. But, would it be better to mount it in front of the water radiator, so at least itl'l get some airflow in standing traffic when the fan kicks in and draws some air over it?. Otherwise in standing traffic the oil rad will just be sitting there with no airflow over it....any thoughts either way please? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted August 2, 2004 mine's down where the intercooler should be on a G60, and even in standing traffic it's more effective than the original heat exchanger... 8) Stick it next to the rad and it'll be fine, or infront and it'll still be fine... 8) You're pretty much able to stick it anywhere you like on a valver as there's quite a bit more room due to the lack of pipework for intercooler / sodding great big VR6 lump! ;) :lol: 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kvwloon 0 Posted August 2, 2004 Henny, We're gonna have to start paying you soon! :lol: Thanks...again! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted August 2, 2004 mmmm... KER-CHING! :lol: :roll: :wink: I do this for the love of it, not the money... just as well really! ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kvwloon 0 Posted August 5, 2004 Arghhh. new pipes arrived today...but, the short one intended to run across the front of engine to metal pipe is the same as already there. It's not long enough even to cut the end of the metal pipe to remove the connection where it goes to oil cooler, and connect that way. The longer pipe which should run up to the flange on the block is different, but probably could be made to fit by cutting off one end of the hose! Is this right? Any further advice please over these pipes! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
