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jamiehamy

Protecting brake discs

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I've searched for an answer to this but can't find a thing.

 

I'm probably going abroad with work for a few weeks before Christmas again and won't be driving the car. The other half is being gay and won't drive it, he says it's too fast, so I'll have to leave it on the street.

 

The pain with this is that the discs corrode like mad, even in a few weeks and end up all scored when i get back. Does anyone know of a liquid/compound or whatever I could spray on them which would discourage corrosion but wash off easily ( or indeed come off with driving?).

 

I know it might sounds daft, but I go away a lot with work and this is getting on my goat. I don't; have a garage for ita nd it's not an option (my Mk2 is taking pride of place until I find a gearbox for it).

 

Cheers, J

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To be honest, the brakes will be fine. Even brand new cars sat on the forecourt get rusty brakes. Once the brakes are used it will clear up. You DONT want to be putting anything on your discs like WD40 to stop them corroding, obviously this is dangerous.

 

It sat there will do it no harm, maybe leave the handbrake off and in gear if possible to prevent the pads seizing to the discs.

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Hmm.. not convinced. I've had it laid up a few times over the last couple of years and the rust does affect them. Whilst yes, they eventually clean up, they are always scored and overall worse condition that they were before lay up. Doesn't help I live right next to the Clyde, the salt water will probably not aid their cause.

 

The front discs are fine on the outside, but the inside have lines of corrosion on the inner and outer extremes, caused by a period in layup. They don't fail the MOT, but will reduce performance of the brakes a bit.

 

I know with steam engines and the like everything gets a coat of grease during winter layup. Obv as you say i can't use anything like that, but always wondered if there was anything else that wouldn't harm the operation of the brakes but stop them corroding.

 

I do think i'm onto plums, but thought i'd put it out there!

 

(I know I'm probably being silly/OCD over this, but it's something that annoys me!)

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I don't think you can put anything on them, but I would have thought that even for a couple of months of sitting around, after a drive or two the discs will be fine?

 

I did chuckle at this....

The other half is being gay

Was that an intentional pun? :lol:

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Just give it a damn good run once you get to drive it again. Brake discs do wear and get thinner, so the layer the corrosion forms on will be worn away leaving no trace of corrosion on the face of the discs.

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Wheels off, Clear laquer aerosol, wheels on... it'll burn off within 3 miles so just go easy on the first drive.

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Wheels off, Clear laquer aerosol, wheels on... it'll burn off within 3 miles so just go easy on the first drive.

 

Now that sounds more like it... Have you tried it before or know anyone that has?

:)

 

I did chuckle at this....

 

jamiehamy wrote:The other half is being gay

 

 

Was that an intentional pun? :lol:

 

I can handle my own harsh banter..lol

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Check out my thread on the brake refurb, fully painted the discs with 3 coats of plastikote paint, did 3 or 4 miles and it'd all rubbed off, it does smell for a day or two but goes away in no time and i can assure you you will not have braking problems and they will bite just as intended.

 

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=63981&hilit=summers&start=285

 

:wink:

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Check out my thread on the brake refurb, fully painted the discs with 3 coats of plastikote paint, did 3 or 4 miles and it'd all rubbed off, it does smell for a day or two but goes away in no time and i can assure you you will not have braking problems and they will bite just as intended.

 

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=63981&hilit=summers&start=285

 

:wink:

 

Thats reassuring, as id be warey of spraying anything on the disc. I suppose laquer isnt a lubricant so wouldnt be like spraying WD40 onto the discs.

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believe it or not you can also use hairspray, just coat it well after a run to clean the surfaces. Nice and cheap! Will clean off after a 2 minute drive when you go again. Also, i would over inflate the tyres to avoid flatspots and pop a few silica gel packs in the cabin. Run the fuel down as much as possible.

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Cheers fla,

 

Hairspray sounds like a good compromise - not too permanent and really easy to apply ( to the discs!).

 

Although i think any new discs will be getting KIP's treatment as the rusty bits really annoy me.

 

I'm a happy chap now :)

 

Thanks, j

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I'd be really wary of putting anything on the faces of the disks as possible contamination of the brake pads could occur.

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I did feel really unsure about what toad mentions for a while but i guess if you dont use the brakes while the paint is wet then you are just scraping off dry paint which i feel cant be any worse than layers of rust, just my feling on it though and certainly dont want anyone to take my methods as gospel :grin: just been happy with the results from previous experience....

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Im struggling to see the need for this though :scratch:

 

Surely the surface corrosion on disc doesnt do any harm and after a good drive its gone with no lasting affects?

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I know what you mean Gaz, it took me while to get into the idea but after the first lot i painted on the vr i masked up the complete braking surface and sure enough because the pad doesn't contact all the disc it leaves a rusty lip above and below where the pad contacts it.

 

A guy i know who works as a mechanic at an Audi dealership said to whack on some paint before fitting new discs so then the only bare metal is the bit the pad contacts and actually leaves a nice painted bit on the part of the disc that isnt used when applying the brakes.

 

Not talking hamerite or anything but satin black or silver as i have done to both mine and Butterflys VR's looks and works perfectly, i guess if i didn't tell most folk they'd just think i'd painted the edges.

 

I'll never fit new discs again without coating them in paint first, even inside the disc you cant see gets a good coating as it prevents corrosion all round.

 

Like i say not intending to convert people but not had a problem with 4 cars done now. :?

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with light rust yes, but for stuff that has a while to take hold, creates all sorts of pits and grooves.

 

I replaced my last discs not because they were thin, but they were a mess, you could run your finger over the surface and feel major imperfections and ledges.

 

Scottish climate might make it worse than down south tho...

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painting discs -

- just buy Pagid discs, they come with a painted coating which the pads wear off as required when new, quite common on a number of brands of disc now.

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Wouldn't be concerned about the petrol unless its over 3 months -ish in which case add some petrol additive like VW's G-001-700-03 or Fuel Stabiliser Petrol Additive off Ebay.

 

Sylvercryn Hair Spray (Firm Hold)(In bright green metallic tin) to seal the bright disc surfaces while clean, one small handbag tin costing £1 is enough for all 8 surfaces. (On driving again, this just disappears and the brakes are instant). Move the car to get some on the blind spots behind the pads. Best to take the wheels off. If wheels on, put a few thicknesses of newspaper to catch the drips off the bottom of the discs.

On driving again, the brakes are like the day the C. was put away. Been doing it for the 15 years. Still on the orignal brakes & pads with no side effects.

 

Over inflating tyres.... watch the upper limit of inflation of tyres (marked on th eside wall). I had one pop its structure out by just going from 36psi on the front to 42 psi. Don't do it now. Never seem to get flats, even after 6 - 7 months (and no longer roll the car. Just make sure they are inflated to the correct pressure a couple of week before and a few days before leaving the C. re-check in case of a slow puncture/leak. I also cover up the wheels with large bin liners to reduce the amount of circulating air and therefore moisture.

 

As it's winter, check the strengths of the engine coolant and windscreen wash will with stand -20'C.

 

Best internal drying agent I've found is those white chips flakes. Put then in a the big holder 0.5Kg and the holder in a bowl or bucket. They really suck in them moisture. Last about 4 months.

 

.

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I know what you mean Gaz, it took me while to get into the idea but after the first lot i painted on the vr i masked up the complete braking surface and sure enough because the pad doesn't contact all the disc it leaves a rusty lip above and below where the pad contacts it.

 

A guy i know who works as a mechanic at an Audi dealership said to whack on some paint before fitting new discs so then the only bare metal is the bit the pad contacts and actually leaves a nice painted bit on the part of the disc that isnt used when applying the brakes.

 

Not talking hamerite or anything but satin black or silver as i have done to both mine and Butterflys VR's looks and works perfectly, i guess if i didn't tell most folk they'd just think i'd painted the edges.

 

I'll never fit new discs again without coating them in paint first, even inside the disc you cant see gets a good coating as it prevents corrosion all round.

 

Like i say not intending to convert people but not had a problem with 4 cars done now. :?

 

Ah but they are 2 slightly different things you're talking about Paul. I agree, painting the outside edge around the vents before fitting isnt a bad idea (i remember the pics you posted) they do look better without the horrible corrosion. Im just not sure about spraying the face of the discs. In a way i can see why you'd want to do it if the cars going to be sat for more then say 4 weeks. But anything up to that id imagine a good run would clear things up.

 

:D

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