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philie

Help needed dont know whats wrong(FIXED)(NO NEW ISSUE)

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Ok guys my front engine mount bracket sheered in half and the engine was bouncing all over the place so i got a new one fitted but now the car starts fine idles ok then about 1 minute later starts spluttering.When its spluttering the revs stay perfectly at 800 not a budge but what I did notice is that the boost is going from -0.5 to -0.2 and this is when she starts to stuggle but as I said the revs stay still at 800.

Now when I disconnect the blue temp sensor the engine is fine ie. the idle stays at 800 and the boost -0.5.as soon as I re-connect the bts it idles fine for about a minute then the boost goes to -0.2 and the engine starts to struggle.ive changed the blue temp sensor and its still the same there are no air leeks in the intercooler pipes or any of the smaller ones I also took a look at the throttle body and its fine.

This is really annoying any help on what to do next would be appreciated.

 

UPDATE

 

OK I tought this was fixed but now when I drive for 15 mins or over go to a shop turn it off and start her back up it splutters the boost comes on exactly like the original problem.Now if I blip the accelerater 2 or 3 times it settles down back to normal weired or what anyone any suggestions.

 

Oh on a side note what mileage are people getting out of a full tank im getting about 300 as Ireland only has crap 95ron and the rado feels a tiny bit lumpy on idle so I filled her up with some E5 (which has 5% bio ethenol as is supposedly 99ron) idles much better no lumpy feeling but still the same issue above.

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Check that the lambda is intact, the movement from the engine may have broken the connection.

Whats the best way to check it i was under the car yesterday it look fine in the exhaust were does it go to the loom?

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Ok when I unplug the blue temp sensor and blip the accelerater 3 times the car runs perfectly is this some sort of safe mode and does this tell me its sensor related problem? OR could it be a relay or something? anyone please some advice.

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Good call above with the lambda - check the wiring near the rear engine mount.

 

When the car reaches 70 degrees coolant temp the lambda becomes a king sensor, unplugging the BTS and blipping the throttle 3 times puts the car into timing mode with no advance so basically ignoring the signal from the 02 sensor

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Good call above with the lambda - check the wiring near the rear engine mount.

 

When the car reaches 70 degrees coolant temp the lambda becomes a king sensor, unplugging the BTS and blipping the throttle 3 times puts the car into timing mode with no advance so basically ignoring the signal from the 02 sensor

Ok the lambda was connected at the engine mount but I just seen another thread about the lambda for a g60 and from the pic it had an extra wire coming of it which I dont rememer seeing possible cause?

Thanks guys Il check when the rain stops hopefully this is it.

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Ok I checked the cables and the engine mount the earth one was snapped connected it back together and it ran for about 3 mins fine then the boost increased and it got lumpy again eventually cutting out.I then started her up again and she was very lumpy unplugged the lambda from the engine mount stil the same so whta im asking is there any way to test this lambda sensor before I spend 100 quid on it.

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Quick update im getting really confused about this if I hold in th wide open throttle switch it runs fine someone help this is driving me nuts.

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Quick update im getting really confused about this if I hold in th wide open throttle switch it runs fine someone help this is driving me nuts.

 

I couldn't say for sure, but cars with narrow band lambda's (which your G60 almost certainly is) ignore the lambda reading under WOT, hence why it runs fine with the WOT switch held. Therefore this definitely points to a lambda problem for me, I'd check the wiring again before forking out though!

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Quick update im getting really confused about this if I hold in th wide open throttle switch it runs fine someone help this is driving me nuts.

 

I couldn't say for sure, but cars with narrow band lambda's (which your G60 almost certainly is) ignore the lambda reading under WOT, hence why it runs fine with the WOT switch held. Therefore this definitely points to a lambda problem for me, I'd check the wiring again before forking out though!

Thanks mate yea wiring to the lambda does not look great i can see wire threw the plastic near the sensor at the exhauts and it doesnt look to healthy at the engine mount can somweone confirm this issue is lambda related and not relay or anything else thanks.

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Ok bought a lambda and went to fit this morning and quess what the old one is welded into place argh :censored: so until I can get it to the garage to get it sorted does anyone know if I tape the wot switch in (as the car is fine with the switch depressed) will it be ok to drive for a few days like this?

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I'd say it will overfuel like a good un if you do that as it thinks its on boost all the time and will chuck loads of extra fuel in. Has the lambda actually been welded in? I've had ones that have been pretty difficult to remove in the past but spraying some plusgas on over a few nights and a good swing on the spanner gets them off eventually.

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I wouldn't recommend it buddy not exactly sure of the repercussions. The lambda probably isn't welded, just seized like a mother... Grit your teeth and try harder!

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No it is defo welded in place i was under the car this morning with a torch adnd you can see the weld all the way around.Ok not a good idea to drive it with the switch down so another question is it runs fine when the blue temp switch is plugged out is it possible to drive it with that unplugged?

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The nut is welded to the catalyst but the probe itself is just screwed in - mine wasn't that tight at all...

 

22mm spanner

You cant even see the nut with the weld going around it im not suprised ive spent the last 2 years fixing bodge jobs on this car.So can the car run ok with the bts unplugged?

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I cant say for sure. Not a g60 man. But i'm pretty sure the nut covered with weld is the lambda plug and your lambda is screwed into it.

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Sorry lads dont think i made this clear the nut of the lambda itself is welded to the exhaust no other nut there anyony know about the bts?

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It was the lambda I basically drilled a new hole in the exhaust beside the old lambda welded in a new nut connected it up and ran perfectly again wohoo thanks for all the help guys.

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Good news, do you have 2 lambdas sticking out now?

Sure do just cut the wires on the old one and left it there.

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