eugopnosaj 0 Posted February 10, 2011 What else is on Fuse 21 and the one above the fusebox (cant remember which number it is) Both fuses keep blowing and I've no idea what it could be. I've checked for loose connections or stripped wires but cant find anything....without pulling the whole dash out anyway... I know that the MFA memory, windows, interior light and central locking are controlled by either of these as they now dont work but ive checked the wiring for that and cannot find an issue. Does anyone know what else these fuses supply so I can check those too J Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The_Dude 0 Posted February 10, 2011 There is a handy list on the underside of the fusbox cover tray. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eugopnosaj 0 Posted February 10, 2011 Haha ok oops Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted February 10, 2011 Also if anyone needs any fuses Pound land does a pack of 30 fuses all different kinds from 7.5A to 30A for a measly £1, better than getting shafted by Halfords Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eugopnosaj 0 Posted February 10, 2011 might get some until i can work out what keeps causing it to blow haha at least then i can unlock the car properly! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 10, 2011 Also if anyone needs any fuses Pound land does a pack of 30 fuses all different kinds from 7.5A to 30A for a measly £1, better than getting shafted by Halfords I'm not sure i'd trust them tbh - you'll find they melt rather than blow sometimes - worth sticking with the original VW fuses, seem very reliable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted February 11, 2011 Yeah true but when your testing why bother blowing VW fuses which i imagine are 50p a go. And as any electrician will tell you a fuse is a fuse Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted February 11, 2011 Just let the wiring melt instead!. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted February 11, 2011 paper clips are the way forward Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 11, 2011 And as any electrician will tell you a fuse is a fuse Agree using cheap ones for testing but any GOOD electrician will tell you that fuses aren't the same - the quality differences can be significant, especially with automotive ones. Most fuses will need more than there amp rating to blow but some cheap fuses need over 2 times the rating to blow! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted February 11, 2011 How much are VW fuses, never thought about getting them from VW?? And to be fair it was my dad that said a fuse was a fuse but he isn't an auto electrician, im sure in houses etc a fuse is a fuse really. Did notice that the poundland ones were very cheap looking Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted February 11, 2011 Sprapyard & grab a handfull.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eugopnosaj 0 Posted February 12, 2011 Wow random fuse fight. Anyway the fusebox cover doesnt list what else is powered by the top fuse....I did however find what is causing an issue. The socket G1 which plugs into the back of the fuse box has melted and one of the wires is bare for at least 20cm!!! Will post pics when i remove it. Im hoping it hasn't caused damage to the fusebox, however even when i removed it from the fusebox (haven't removed it from the car) and plug a fuse into the top holder it still blows.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 12, 2011 (edited) G is an engine bay loom - if it blows straight away then you have a dead short somewhere.... I assume if you remove this wire it's wont blow... If it's number 11 (blue and white) that is the speen sensor to the stereo - probably not connected and left to short to earth somewhere. I think the lambda heater is also on this plug so could also be the issue - you can disconnect the sensor but that might not rule it out as on Corrado's the wiring seems to break down on the engine loom side if things due to heat. Edited February 13, 2011 by Supercharged Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eugopnosaj 0 Posted February 13, 2011 (edited) If its an engine bay loom why does the fuses for my central locking and windows blow? When I remove the loom from the fusebox the window fuse still blows didn't test the central locking fuse. EDIT: the fuse at the top of the fusebox which powers the windows is also coincidently a circuit breaker fuse which would make sense as to why that always blows... I think the blue and white is still ok but I haven't been able to remove the loom from the car yet. It only started doing it when I replaced the battery, perhaps a wire got trapped and is now grounding.... EDIT: ok tried the fuses with the loom not connected to the fuse box and they no longer blow however the socket G1 also has the wiring on it for the fuel pump....still yet to work out which wire has melted See pics EDIT 2: looking at the wiring diagrams it could be a number of things; colour wise it 'should' be black and it is pin number 4 which so far i have found connects to: - ignition coil, ignition booster (piggybacks H1 pin 4 black cable towards ignition switch) - piggybacks via fusebox into digifant relay #3 pin 3; fuel pump relay (relay works fine however as fuel pump works) - black cable for speed sensor Possibly more but i could have narrowed it down now to the speed sensor black wire however at the gearbox end it looks ok, or the ignition coil/ignition switch however car starts and everything runs fine from the ignition..... The plastic had melted all the way up to the fabric tape where it comes in through the bulkhead but I cannot be sure whether it has melted further through the loom. Access to it via the engine bay isn't easy and it cannot be done today, its raining and havent got enough time. My friend thinks we should just try and insulate the cable so i can use it till the weekend (i start a new job tomorrow and will be working 9-5 so need the car) when we can take the dash out and have a proper look however I dont really trust this method as like i said it could be melted further and using it is probably making it worse, also i dont know why it shorted in the first place :( Edited February 13, 2011 by eugopnosaj Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 17, 2011 Any updates dude? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roan 0 Posted February 17, 2011 I had the same issue, and eventually found the loom that plugs into the instrument cluster was melted together (how I don't know). Spent a few hours cutting it out and putting it back together again. This is after I had checked the interior lights etc. for shorts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
