eugopnosaj

Have you checked all the grounding points - there is a ground connector on the A pillar on the drivers side tucked up behind the dash as these can work loose. Some of those connectors you have shown don't actually need plugging in - strange I know, but just seems to be that way, I believe some might have been for diagnostics or additional accessories - some for example are for power seats and the centre gauges if fitted. Otherwise some of them connect into a smaller female plug not in the fuse box itself. Unfortunately there are a few wires with similar colours and connectors so if you could trace them it might help to identify where they go. All the big connectors plug directly in and the clocks should be one of those IIRC. The grey/blue grey connector I believe is for illumination for something and there will be a bank of the same sockets in the front of the fuse box http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?95527-Heated-seat-loom I have a copy of the wiring diagrams somewhere, just trying to trace back through my old posts :lol: Edit: Found my old post with the diagram, back in 2012! This is for a '94 and later car http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?64549-Electric-window-wiring-diagrams-Corrado-and-MK3-golf

I used to have a 92 valver crossover - had the facelift exterior panels but had the early interior. I swapped my dash and switches, in fact I did the full interior - I didn't have to swap the bracket on the dash for mine to fit. The wiring is interchangable from the fusebox so I just changed out entire loom sections as they have the same sockets at the fusebox side.

Fair enough, I don't want to break the Jeep so I might just have to deal with all associated costs outside of the insurance instead to save it.

Oh right, and you were happy it being given a CAT N status? Oh I've travelled distances to get various correct parts for my VR so that isn't an issue, I just might be waiting a long time to get the bits in the right colour, in the meantime I would only have my beetle to use which isn't suitable for a daily really. The VR is in the garage waiting for me to spend some time on her.

Did that not mean that yours was written off if you had to buy it back? I can drive it but cannot open the drivers door so it probably isn't ideal to do so. Getting them in the right colour is probably just as difficult, if not harder than getting Corrado ones in the correct colour! All the breakers I have contacted have some but not in the right colours.

Morning all. Yesterday my Jeep and I were involved in a relatively slow side impact collision with a Fiesta (which came off a lot worse) I have accepted liability as I outright hadn't seen him, I've got protected NCD and I am ok to take responsibility for my actions. That aside I now face a very strong likelihood the Jeep will be written off. I have spoken to my insurance company and have initially arranged for the Jeep to be collected, assessed and then a decision made however a bit of research myself has led me to believe I can fix her. The main reason I imagine they will write her off is the fact I need 2 doors, a wing and a cill. All of which are NLA as it is 20 years old. I can get doors and the wing from breakers, albeit a different colour, and I have found some replacement cill parts, or some people cut them out and make step up platforms/rock sliders which could be the ideal solution as I want to make it more suitable for offroad. http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?12046-Rocker-cutting-outage&highlight=rock+slider+weld I don't know what damage there might be to the pillars however the drivers door and middle of the cill under the door took the brunt and the pillars both look ok. It being higher up, and "tougher" means I am hopeful the cill has done what it needed to. What do you guys think? I am happy to do the work myself, and avoid giving it to the insurance company, as I don't want a CAT write off status. They haven't contacted me to arrange collection, so I need to make a decision first. Although I can wait and see what the inspection is and then discuss my options with them, although I don't want a trigger happy inspector writing it off because they don't want to deal with it, being old and not inspecting it fully thinking of all the options ie self repair by me.

There's not much work involved, you'll need to get some suitable LED tape in the correct colour, thankfully it is already 12v so all you need is to solder a short length of cable to each end with connectors. Trace the illumination cables which are routed behind the dash (you can take a feed from the ashtray for example) plus a ground spade connection (of which there is an earth connection point on the A pillar behind the dash) and then stick it in place on the clocks - they usually come with pre-applied self adhesive tape. Bear in mind you will need to make it so that the connections can be removed in case you need to take the clocks out etc.

Correct in thinking the blue strip powers the bulbs, and that these are the blue (or faded blue) 509t bulbs. There were smaller ones which powered the LCDs which were a slightly different casing. A few people used to fit those small 12v fluro neon type bulbs which were the right length. Like Fla I have fitted an LED strip the full width of mine eliminating the need for the power strip. Not sure if I kept it though.

The original design for the digital LCD displays (clock inclusive) was a clear 5w 12v incandescent style bulb with a green translucent film to aid in colour diffusion. There are a few options; have a different tinted film with the original clear bulb, or have a frosty translucent film with a coloured led. I opted for a strip of coloured leds as I found that a single bulb caused spotting.

Hey Phil, I changed mine from OBD1 to OBD2 so I have the OBD1 ECU and loom somewhere in my garage, the fabric tape needs a bit of tidying up but it should all be there. Mine is '94 so shes a coilpack VR6

Design manager/senior CAD technician for a bespoke joinery company

Easypops that looks like the ones I set up at work. I think I will probably go down a similar route, post haste because I had a look at the car earlier today and some c*** has jumped on the bonnet and walked over it...theres muddy footprints all over it!!!! What possesses someone to do that!

Does anyone have any security cameras fitted to their properties? My garage is attached to the side of my house, with the drive outside the front of the garage. Unfortunately this means I cannot see the car/front of the garage from inside my house (the only window is from the landing and I cannot see past the garage roof). I would also like to put a camera at the front entrance of the house as this would also track anyone going down to the side door. At work we have got some Swann cameras and they seem pretty good, they have an app and can be tracked on a phone, or a connected computer. I like the idea of the Nest Protect Pro as I can integrate it with my Google Home network and other smart devices, but they're expensive and I would need at least 2, if not 3 cameras, as I might put one inside the garage too as I have my baja beetle stored in there. The other issue is that it only stores to cloud storage and you have to pay a subscription with that, likewise with a lot of the other "smart" security cameras that are available. What have you lot got/any recommendations? Thanks!

Sounds like the lock barrel is full of grit. If you take the handle off you can take the barrel out and give it a clean. The likelihood is that both cables could have perished and need repairing. If you can solder it is simple to do. Ah, that's a common issue finding the scuttle filled with leaves!

The central locking should work regardless of whether either switch works; if the pump is energized it will lock/unlock the system. Unfortunately as far as I am aware the switch cannot be replaced by itself - they are built into the handles, however you might find that the cable has rotted out - as is typical at the connector, mine had done on both my corrados and needed repairing. You should be able to turn the key at least, can you do that in the passenger handle? That sounds like a separate issue however. If the vac lines were damaged you would hear the pump whir and whir and would hear a leak whilst it tries to build pressure so it probably issue that - sounds electrical related to me