wy906 0 Posted February 15, 2011 I need to swap some wheels over prior to next MOT. Had a play last weekend and they seem to be really tight (or that I’m just too weak!) Would spraying WD40 to the wheel nuts the night before changing the wheels help loosening? Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamiehamy 0 Posted February 15, 2011 Probably not. If they really are that tight, you could try Super Crack and leave it over night. Probably no point in heating - you'll not get access to heat the right bits without damaging some other stuff that will absord the residual heat, likes bearing seals. Are you using the standard VW wrench or an extendable one? The longer the handle, the easier it is. Just be careful not to shear the nuts tho. More modern VW nuts are not great quality and more prone to shearing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dukest 0 Posted February 15, 2011 yeah, as above, the standard wrench isnt particularly long and leverage is half the battle. I bought one of these which i just keep in the car which helps a lot, but any long bar would help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 15, 2011 Super Crack - Is that Super strength Cocaine? :) Yeah 3 or 4 foot breaker bar is a handy weapon to have in any tool collection. The wheelbolts should be done up to 85lbft, but some tyre places rather like to see how hard they can ram the bolts in before they pull through the wheel and come out the other end. I would also brush on a little copper grease on the threads and around the wheel mounting flange. I'm forever seeing rear wheels siezed on, needing several clouts with a big mallet to get them off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wy906 0 Posted February 15, 2011 Cheers everyone, I'll get a long wrench. Only got a standard VW one at the moment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted February 15, 2011 Ditto copper grease for when you put them back on. PlusGas is the Corrado owner's weapon of choice for loosening stuff, vastly superior to that water dispersant. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamiehamy 0 Posted February 16, 2011 Super Crack - Is that Super strength Cocaine? :) Yeah 3 or 4 foot breaker bar is a handy weapon to have in any tool collection. The wheelbolts should be done up to 85lbft, but some tyre places rather like to see how hard they can ram the bolts in before they pull through the wheel and come out the other end. I would also brush on a little copper grease on the threads and around the wheel mounting flange. I'm forever seeing rear wheels siezed on, needing several clouts with a big mallet to get them off. It's awesome stuff, I use the Normfest ( or Wurth) which is far superior to most other brands in my opinion. My formula for getting stubborn bolts (esp old track rod ends) out is to blast them til really hot with the blowtorch, then immediately spray liberal amounts of SC on. Does the trick everytime (provided the bolt head doesn't come off). Heating is good, heating with very quick cooling causing the lubricant to sook in to the thread is amazing! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 16, 2011 Good tip! I've got some Wurth Rostoff Ice which claims to cool parts to minus 40 deg, but that's erm, Bullsheeeeeet! It doesn't even freeze a teaspoon of water :lol: I'll try it with the heat next time. Maybe some deepheat rubbed into a tie rod end might work? :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted February 16, 2011 It's awesome stuff, I use the Normfest ( or Wurth) which is far superior to most other brands in my opinion. My formula for getting stubborn bolts (esp old track rod ends) out is to blast them til really hot with the blowtorch, then immediately spray liberal amounts of SC on. Does the trick everytime (provided the bolt head doesn't come off). Heating is good, heating with very quick cooling causing the lubricant to sook in to the thread is amazing! So....you heat your wheel nuts until "really hot" and then cool them down rapidly to get them out. That's called quench hardening of the metal and you're in danger of making your wheel bolts very brittle. That is probably why you have experienced the bolt head shearing off from the shank. I'd recommend replacing your wheel bolts if you're doing this a lot, imo you're running them outside of their operating range and potentially introducing weaknesses into the metal due to the rapid changes in temperature. 2p. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamiehamy 0 Posted February 16, 2011 So....you heat your wheel nuts until "really hot" and then cool them down rapidly to get them out. That's called quench hardening of the metal and you're in danger of making your wheel bolts very brittle. That is probably why you have experienced the bolt head shearing off from the shank. I'd recommend replacing your wheel bolts if you're doing this a lot, imo you're running them outside of their operating range and potentially introducing weaknesses into the metal due to the rapid changes in temperature. 2p. No no no! For things like track rod ends, balljoints, manifold studs etc...i.e. old goosed things that are being replaced. If the nuts/bolts are that tough to get out, they need replaced anyway as far as I'm concerned. As I said earlier, it's not really possible to heat the wheels studs (or more importantly the hub they are threaded into)with the wheel on without damaging other things. Sheared studs have actually been on Ibiza and Polo and never heated. And one of them was not even me removing. Maybe it's just me, but I think the quality of metal on these cars is rotten...something to do with being made in Spain maybe?! But yes, point is valid however, pay attention to what is getting the treatment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted February 16, 2011 Spain? I thought they were made in Mexico / Wolfsburg :s Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamiehamy 0 Posted February 16, 2011 Spain? I thought they were made in Mexico / Wolfsburg :s Yeah, I thought the Polo and other SEAT derived cars were produced out there using a site that was inherited from SEAT? Might be wrong :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted February 16, 2011 well Prodigal's inner wing says "HECHA EN MEXICO" and checking my VIN online, it states it was made in Wolfsburg but I guess others could be made in Spain :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamiehamy 0 Posted February 16, 2011 Just did the google, we're both right probably! I'll leave you to interpret this :) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volkswagen_Group_factories Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wy906 0 Posted February 16, 2011 Ok I've just bought the wrench from dukest's link. :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 16, 2011 (edited) For the sake of a few quid I'd buy new wheel nuts now if original but I'd also recommend thread restoring them and the hubs - Halfords do a kit or you can buy individual sizes like I did from Snap-On for a couple of quid each. Clean them with the above then use a small amount of copper slip and always use a clean tray when removing them in future - I've done mine once a few years ago and they thread in perfectly by hand with no effort. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=14287&group_ID=1147&store=uk&dir=catalog Edited February 16, 2011 by Supercharged Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wy906 0 Posted February 20, 2011 All done. Swapped Speedline to BBS, also 20 new bolts. Pic at my member's thread. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?48872-94-Ice-Grey-Violet-VR6/page8 Thanks everyone! My back hurts! :-( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
