VR6Pete 0 Posted March 28, 2011 Hi All, Purchased a new Aux pump, which works if I attach a 12v supply direct to it, but when its plugged in via the loom, it doesnt start... I've left the car half an hour, rad fans kick in ok, car sits just over 90degrees, however the aux pump doesnt kick in? I've checked the fuse in the fan control module, however still dont appear to be working? Is there any other relays / sensors / or fuses I can check? Any help greatly appreciated :) Thanks. Pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 32 Posted March 28, 2011 Use a multimeter or test lamp to check for voltage across the 2 terminals of the loom connector with the ignition on - it should be running constantly. If there's none there, work your way back up the loom and check for a break Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted April 1, 2011 will have a closer look this weekend then and dig out the multimeter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted April 1, 2011 There are two in line connectors in the wire back to the fan conmtroller 5amp fuse. From the pump end wire is red with black stripe, engine connection plug, the red with black stripe again, connection behind th erelay plate, then black with red stripe to the fan controller unit connection. Also check the earth (brown) wire goes to earth electrically. If all OK, then change fan controller. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted April 2, 2011 Thanks for the advice! It now works on the ignition... Connections just needed cleaning up, but it doesn't continue running once car is above 90 degrees when the ignition is off, from memory it should run for a period of time when it's above 90 degrees? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spanneredmonkey 0 Posted April 2, 2011 Is there not a sensor on the thermostat housing for this? Mine doesn't have an aux pump, but the used stat housing I bought arrived with 3 sensors on it, I was told the extra one was for the aux pump Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted April 2, 2011 Not sure? Any ideas which one or any other things to check? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted April 2, 2011 Will try bridging the brown and coloured wire (can't remember what colour it is) on the yellow temp sensor. If the pump kicks in then I know I need a new sensor :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted April 2, 2011 You say the rad fan kicks in while the engine is running. That is governed by the rad thermo switch embedded in the radiator side wall. Does it kick in if the engine is really hot when the engine/ignition is switched off? If not check/replace the blue dual sensor in the thermostat housing. This should bring on the rad fan and also the aux pump. Pins 1 across 4 are the thermo switch for the aux pump. Pins 2 across 3 are the sender for the dash water temp guage. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted April 3, 2011 Hey matey. Rad fans all operate ok. Aux pump operates when ignition is on or engine running, it's just not when engine Is hot and ignition is off. Thanks for confirming the pins, will bridge them today, Hopfully it's just that, temp sensor works fine in the car, all water temp is ok just aux pump. Those troublesome things!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted April 3, 2011 Forgot mention that rad fans still run with ignition off when hot, but no aux pump! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crrdslcvr6 10 Posted April 3, 2011 What FCM do you have in the car? 50 amp strip with one or two fuses? IIRC, the 5 amp fuse runs the aux pump. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted April 3, 2011 2 fuses, but as I say the aux pump does operate on the ignition, and the fuses are fine as it does work :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crrdslcvr6 10 Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) 2 fuses, but as I say the aux pump does operate on the ignition, and the fuses are fine as it does work :) Man, sorry about missing that. I wound up with a FCM with one 30 amp fuse and the pump didn't work until I used the correct dual fuse set-up. BTW I have the 288 brake conversion with goodridge brakes on my car also. Wonderful set-up!! Edited April 3, 2011 by crrdslcvr6 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted April 4, 2011 no problem :) looking forward to driving the corrado at some point! its been nearly 3 years since i've driven one of my own! Right, I bridged pin 1 - 4, and the fans and aux pump kicked in! now... I was under the impression that the aux pump should run under certain conditions on it's own? it did on my previous VR6's and does for other VR's i've seen, without the fans running.... so. what would control this particular function? Is there also a way I can test each fan stage is working? Not entirely conviced I am seeing the fan kick up the different stages? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crrdslcvr6 10 Posted April 4, 2011 [/color] no problem :) looking forward to driving the corrado at some point! its been nearly 3 years since i've driven one of my own! Right, I bridged pin 1 - 4, and the fans and aux pump kicked in! now... I was under the impression that the aux pump should run under certain conditions on it's own? it did on my previous VR6's and does for other VR's i've seen, without the fans running.... so. what would control this particular function? Is there also a way I can test each fan stage is working? Not entirely conviced I am seeing the fan kick up the different stages? The pump is activated by the ignition and runs for about 10 minutes once the car shuts down. The timing is controlled via the FCM. Could your FCM be acting up? Or maybe a bad wire on the FCM itself? I know a lot of guys run thes cars deleting the pump, but I like to keep mine working. My car is a summer car with working a/c. I need all the cooling I can get. The fan can be tested by bridging the wires at the fan control switch located on the radiator. The lowest speed is run with the a/c. If your a/c is not working the lowest setting fan speed will not run. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted April 4, 2011 [/color] The pump is activated by the ignition and runs for about 10 minutes once the car shuts down. The timing is controlled via the FCM. Could your FCM be acting up? Or maybe a bad wire on the FCM itself? I know a lot of guys run thes cars deleting the pump, but I like to keep mine working. My car is a summer car with working a/c. I need all the cooling I can get. The fan can be tested by bridging the wires at the fan control switch located on the radiator. The lowest speed is run with the a/c. If your a/c is not working the lowest setting fan speed will not run. The fan/pump usually run on for ten minutes if the engine is over warm. If you drive the engine until it cools at little at lesser speeds. The pump & rad fans don't come on after the ignition is switch off. Because the coolant temp has dropped enough. So in this condition, pins 1 & 3 haven't been bridged by the thermo switch itself. The temp settings are 93'C/88'C. If I get my coolant down to 90'C before stopping the engine, the run-on doesn't trigger. Put the blue thermoswitch/temp sender in water above 95'C and see if a circuit is made between its pins 1 & 3. If not = u/s. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crrdslcvr6 10 Posted April 4, 2011 The fan/pump usually run on for ten minutes if the engine is over warm. If you drive the engine until it cools at little at lesser speeds. The pump & rad fans don't come on after the ignition is switch off. Because the coolant temp has dropped enough. So in this condition, pins 1 & 3 haven't been bridged by the thermo switch itself. The temp settings are 93'C/88'C. If I get my coolant down to 90'C before stopping the engine, the run-on doesn't trigger. Put the blue thermoswitch/temp sender in water above 95'C and see if a circuit is made between its pins 1 & 3. If not = u/s. . Check the wiring on the bottom of the fan control module. Do you have the updated FCM or the standard one? The small connection is for the pump and the big connection is for the fans. Also check the condition of the wires. The pump runs off 12v only. It is not temp dependant. Blue temp sensor in the thermostat housing is for the ecu. Control cold start(rich) and standard running at temp(standard). They do go and good idea to change if it is bad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted April 4, 2011 Wires look ok... How do I know if I have the 'updated' one? Mine has 2 fuses in, no aircon.. With one plug and small plug? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crrdslcvr6 10 Posted April 4, 2011 Wires look ok... How do I know if I have the 'updated' one? Mine has 2 fuses in, no aircon.. With one plug and small plug? 2 fuses? What are the amps? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted April 4, 2011 The fan/pump usually run on for ten minutes if the engine is over warm. If you drive the engine until it cools at little at lesser speeds. The pump & rad fans don't come on after the ignition is switch off. Because the coolant temp has dropped enough. So in this condition, pins 1 & 3 haven't been bridged by the thermo switch itself. The temp settings are 93'C/88'C. If I get my coolant down to 90'C before stopping the engine, the run-on doesn't trigger. Put the blue thermoswitch/temp sender in water above 95'C and see if a circuit is made between its pins 1 & 3. If not = u/s. . Yes, you are quite right the blue is ECU, my typo. Yellow sensor. The rest is correct otherwise in VR6Pete post above the aux pump and rad fan would not both run when pins 1 & 3 were bridged in the plug. Temp range as specified. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted April 4, 2011 from memory, its a 30amp and a 5 amp? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crrdslcvr6 10 Posted April 5, 2011 from memory, its a 30amp and a 5 amp? OK, you have the updated FCM. I'm stumped right now. Let me get back to you, I'm going to go under the hood of my car tomorrow and have a look. It's been a while. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crrdslcvr6 10 Posted April 7, 2011 and bump? :) Sorry about the delay. Following knee surgery, PT is keeping me busy! How old is the FCM. My wiring is ok and as soon as the car gets ignition the pump comes on. I don't need to turn the car on either. After I remove the key the car stays running for ~ 10 minutes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites