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fendervg last won the day on April 18

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About fendervg

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    Dublin, IE

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  1. One interesting variation was the "Aktiv" speaker system, these were Nokia speakers that were directly powered, active units - paired with a head unit that had not active pre-amp out stage, so wouldn't work with normal speakers. There was a rare Gamma CD unit designed for the Aktiv system, that as far as I know was the only CD head unit from that era, probably because losing the amplification stage made some extra room for the older CD mechanism - the rest all had casette units with CD changers. It's pretty rare to see now, comes up in the odd Golf Cabrio, but I have seen evidence of a couple of Corrados being fitted with it. It didn't necessarily sound any better, but an interesting oddity nonetheless.
  2. Can you heae the tweeters working? I remember reading somehwere that there was actually a cross-over of some kind in the factory tweeters, but not sure if that's true - I guess the real reason is that the factory stereos jsut have 4x speaker output, so needs to be wired that way.
  3. Would you really be bothered putting the old original tweeters back in? They weren't that great to begin with and will have suffered the ravages of time at this stage. Small tweeter/speaker technology has really come on since then, and you should be able to to find something modern that fits and actually works - once the trim is on you won't see a difference. Another alternative is jsut to fit decent components in the doors and leave the dash ones empty - although I do get wanting to have everything back to factory 100%. although I've never heard of a show where a judge asks you to lift the speaker grille to check for the Nokia logo! Nokia were better at making phones anyway, and even that didn't last.. (actually they made way more selling backbone carrier and mast equipment and firewalls - don't ask me how I know).
  4. Hey, that's some great research and tinkering there - this could be the solution. Will have a good read. Thanks for the effort and the sharing!
  5. fendervg

    ISV/IAC valve

    Never - the odd time they come up on US eBay as part of a whole throttle body, but the asking price was never worth it just to get the one part. In the end I gave it all a good clean, replaced the throttle cable and fixed any air leaks (ISV damper, PCV valve) and replaced the cam sensor as well, and that seemed to fix my issues for the time being.
  6. fendervg

    ISV/IAC valve

    Probably the cable got slack over the years, or stretched a bit. Nice easy result. The dashpot is actually an Audi part - almost impossible to get hold of, NLA and only ever seems to come up as part of a breaker's throttle body - it's also OBD1 specific. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/dashpot/034133283/ I remember spending a long time scouring the interwebs looking for one a few years back.
  7. Wheel bearing? Also check the bearings on all the pulleys and the main tensioner for the aux belt.
  8. That's a good price if he actually has it - I think I tried to order one off them before and it never shipped and had to get a refund in the end.
  9. Fuel Pump VDO E22-041-060Z Fuel level sender VDO 221-833-002-011Z If you already have a VDO pump (which you should have on a 95) you can jut swap your old sender over. Try Mr Auto, Autodoc.de and fleaBAy - also a specialist motor factor should be able to source from VDO directly, and they have a UK warehouse.
  10. fendervg

    ISV/IAC valve

    No smoking! Carb spray on likely suspects can also work.
  11. fendervg

    ISV/IAC valve

    The code you are thinking of that always comes up with the engine not running is: DTC "00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal" This is for the crank position sensor at the front bottom of the block, and shows up because it is obviously not getting a signal so can be ignored. It will go awat as soon as the engine is turning. For the one above, I would check the MAF, replace with a known good one if possible as a test, check fuel pressure and also test for air leaks anywhere in the inlet - you can also get a vacuum gauge that you can plumb in with a t-piece to measure the manifold pressure.
  12. I think all the different third-party lens types have been tried and none of them fit properly without modification, hence why the best option now is expensive custom replacement lenses. For early type fogs, there are a number of options, but for the late ones you will likely have to break the old lens to remove, even after heating the glue, and any replacement lenses will need to be ground to fit. which takea a long time at home wirth a dremel and risks breaking them. I wonder would it be more sensible to put some pressure on Classic Parts to see if they are willing to remake them?
  13. fendervg

    ISV/IAC valve

    Yep, any air getting in after the MAF will cause problems with idle, as eventually it will exceed the ability of the ISV to compensate. Most likely culprits are the small hoste from the FPR to the inlet manifold, the ISV damper box and tubing, PCV and associated pipework and the brake servo and related hoses.
  14. Usually they are happy with bank transfer via IBAN and BIC, even if they don't do PP. Shame you missed out on the kit.
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