pet73r 0 Posted March 29, 2011 Lately on my G60 the clutch pedal seems to be sticking to the floor alot! Not all the time but enough to annoy me. Its mainly when parking or when the clutch is getting alot of use. The bite point becomes very low and then the pedal wont return to its normal position without me pulling it back up. I have no Idea about clutches or hydraulic systems for that matter. Anyone know what this could be? What I should investigate first? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimbobbalooba 0 Posted March 29, 2011 Lately on my G60 the clutch pedal seems to be sticking to the floor alot! Not all the time but enough to annoy me. Its mainly when parking or when the clutch is getting alot of use. The bite point becomes very low and then the pedal wont return to its normal position without me pulling it back up. I have no Idea about clutches or hydraulic systems for that matter. Anyone know what this could be? What I should investigate first? Thanks When my VR6 did similar (hit the floor and didn't come back at all) it was because the clutch slave cylinder had gone. Not an expensive repair either. Check your fluids and keep on top of them until you get it fix or you might end up stranded!! Jim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pet73r 0 Posted March 29, 2011 thanks for the reply. Is this the cylinder on the gearbox or behind the pedals? ---------- Post added at 12:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 AM ---------- That'll be the one on the box! Just had a look in the manual. Ive inspected mine, theres no leaks anywhere and the brake fluid reservoir is full. Could it still mean that the slave cylinder is gone? Or is it worth bleeding the system first to see if theres air in the system? How do I go about bleeding it? Use the nipple on the slace cylinder then depress and release the clutch while someone else tightens and loosens the bleed nipple for me? Like when bleeding brakes? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 29, 2011 Bleeding might fix it for a bit but this really only needs doing every 5 years or so... The slave doesn't leak badly at first - if it's a painted part I would change it as it could be original - new ones are alloy You can bleed in the traditional method but much easier with an eezibleed - especially if on your own Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pet73r 0 Posted March 29, 2011 Its definitely the original part, it has the vw part number and its painted black. You would only recommend changing first? There are no leaks whatsoever. Shall I try bleeding or is it almost certain that its on its way out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 29, 2011 Change it, they usually only last 10 years max! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pet73r 0 Posted March 29, 2011 roger that! Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
16VG60 0 Posted March 29, 2011 Your problem is due to mechanical deffect or air in the system. The simplest way to bleed air out of the clutch system is to back bleed it with a syringe. You simply need to buy a large capacity plastic syringe, to which you will secure 200mm of washer jet hose. Fill the syringe with fresh brake fluid and ensure you displace any trapped air in the syringe. Push the hose onto the slave cylinder bleed nipple, open the nipple with a 12mm spanner, then empty the entire contents of the syringe into the slave cylinder. If done correctly this will quickly and efficiently bleed air out of the system, by displacing it back into the reservoir. This method will also protect the master cylinder from any damage caused by moving the piston beyond the normal swept area. If this does not correct your fault then replace the slave cylinder with a genuine upgraded resin bodied unit. The most common cause of hydraulic system failure is due to internal corrosion, caused by water absourbed by the hygroscopic brake fluid. For this reason the resin bodied slave cylinders were introduced and more importantly your hydraulic fluid should be changed every two years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pet73r 0 Posted March 29, 2011 GSF the best place? ---------- Post added at 08:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ---------- Didnt see your post 16vg60 before it refreshed. So you would investigate this before just replacing it? Thanks for your input, shall have a go at that first. But as I asked above, is GSF the best place for one of these resin ones? I read somewhere that they are genuine items with the part numbers ground off, fact or fiction? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pet73r 0 Posted April 1, 2011 Right, tried bleeding, no joy. Changed the slave cylinder and re-bled, no joy. Clutch pedal still sticking to the floor and getting worse :( Does this mean that its the master clutch cylinder? The one that looks horrible to change in that small gap. Any other possibilities before i replace the master cylinder? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pet73r 0 Posted April 7, 2011 Ended up replacing the master cylinder, and had some joy! Pedal now light and a smooth gear change. Result! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
