tony_ack 0 Posted December 6, 2011 This is actually the first car I've kept (and driven) long enough to change the tyres on out of almost 20 :lol: Though you are planning to sell it soon! With the knock sensor - remember that an invalid or non-existent reading from any of the sensors will cause the ECU to pull back the timing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 6, 2011 Hey now, don't let the missus hear you say that! I'll be sad if I sell it as I'll just hanker after another Mk2 based car and out of the Golf and the Corrado I think we know which is lower maintenance...! Ah of course, thanks buddy. I'll order one and get it on. 20lbft on the bolt! :D ---------- Post added at 03:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:51 PM ---------- found a genuine new knock sensor on Ebay for £27 delivered. Just need to order bolt number N 0102336 from the dealers and I'm all set for some anti-knock fun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted December 6, 2011 Ah of course, thanks buddy. I'll order one and get it on. 20lbft on the bolt! :D ---------- Post added at 03:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:51 PM ---------- found a genuine new knock sensor on Ebay for £27 delivered. Just need to order bolt number N 0102336 from the dealers and I'm all set for some anti-knock fun. good find, do you have an accurate low range torque wrench?, pretty critical to get the sensor torque bang on or the mic won't work right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 6, 2011 I've got the small Halford orange and black one which I think goes down that far. I think it's relatively accurate. Just realised you're in Northants DW! I'm going to be starting my new perm design job in Brackley on Monday :salute: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted December 6, 2011 bit further down the road nr J15 of M1 :) If you want a detour I have a 5 to 25 lb/ft certified torque wrench you can use if you want to be sure then :) a lot better than a big wrench that starts at 20 (ish!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 6, 2011 Very true! The big big one starts at 40 I think. I generally only use that for wheelnuts these days. The smaller one is my bro's, ProdigalSon, i'll try to find the info. Ah yeah, the big one is 30-150 lbft, the baby is 6-45lbft :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 7, 2011 Well I found some info about testing the blue temp sensor: The part number for this sensor is '025 906 041 A' (always check with your Volkswagen dealer for the most updated part number). The resistance of this unit is appriximately 3.2 Kohm at 10 degrees C. If it measures open circuit this will explain erratic idle and throttle speeds especially when the engine is cold...Once the new sensor has been installed, start the engine and disconnect the blue coolant temperature sensor. Rev the engine through 3,000 rpm three times, each time allowing the throttle to close completely. This clears the Digifant ECM fault memory. So I'm going to grab a multimeter and hopefully test it this lunchtime. I'll also do my spare pattern one (not ideal I know) but interesting to see how good it is. At £10 delivered I'm not expecting much. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony_ack 0 Posted December 7, 2011 Main issue with the pattern sensors is that they fail prematurely. I would still expect it to work and be within tolerance if brand new - if not then it's a pretty shoddy replacement! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 7, 2011 Edit: found out more about the Knock Sensor: Knock Sensor This is basically a microphone that bolts to the block and detects pinking by listening for sounds waves of a specific frequency. When the knock sensor detects pinking the ECU is then able to retard the ignition timing accordingly. The signal is passed from the sensor to the loom via a shielded cable. It is essential that this cable is in excellent condition, if there are any nicks or tears in the cable then the knock sensor should be replaced (£45, VW only part). It is simple to replace and merely plugs into the loom at one end (the plug can be found near the fan and distributor) and bolts onto the block at the other. It must be torqued up to 15ft/lbs, any more or less and it will be under or over sensitive. Thought it was 20lbft, will have to cross check the Haynes and the Mk2 Bentley to see what they say (or Corrado Bentley under G60). Also the sheathing on my KS is really bad, I can see the inner core in a number of places so I'm glad I've got that new one on the way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted December 7, 2011 here you go, 15lb ft or 20Nm [ATTACH=CONFIG]50532[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 7, 2011 Ah you absolute legend!! I now see where my 15 and 20 number confusion comes from! :lol: :bonk: thanks davidwort ---------- Post added at 09:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 AM ---------- David, how is your 2.0 8v Corrado? I'm actually really enjoying the 8v engine characteristics and wouldn't be surprised if i'm back in a 2.0 8v Corrado at some point. I don't know why they are so unwanted - just because it's the basic Corrado version? :shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted December 7, 2011 strangely, (or not) my passat haynes manual (for PB and 2E engines) 1.8 and 2L 8v, gives 23Nm and 17lb ft ??? I would have thought the sensor is the same as a G60??? I'll check the etka no. in a bit. yeah, the old 8v corrado is going very well, it's comfy (on standard tyres and suspension) and the 2L engine is more than adequate, in fact it's really nice to drive on my commute now and I'm still getting 40mpg+ even now the weather is colder. My wife prefers driving it to the 1.6 golf we have as she says it has much more go! well, I suppose everything is relative :) I'm going to keep it for ages now I reckon, especially now I've got a wide angle driver's door mirror lol. ---------- Post added at 10:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 AM ---------- PB, EZ, GX etc 1.8 engines do indeed have the same sensor as the G60: 054 905 377A but the 2E engine like mine has a different number: 037 905 377A, not sure why, perhaps it's the wiring layout or the later digifant system? and perhaps why haynes have a different torque value?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 7, 2011 Great news buddy :D having a daily you enjoy driving is so important IMO. I'm worried the golf will be going soon and we'll get a tdi of some ilk, so hoping whatever daily I end up in is fun :D Great, thanks david. I know there is a KS with a blue connector and a green one - wiring is approx 200mm longer too. I know the golf has the blue as it's obvious behind the radiator fan where it connects into the main harness. Could the 2E have the longer KS with a green connector? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony_ack 0 Posted December 7, 2011 The guy I bought the Corrado off had moved to a MK4 TDI from the Corrado as he couldn't afford the Corrado insurance.... he hated the MK4 in terms of driver enjoyment. I take the other view on a daily - it doesn't have to be fun, it has to be frugal, and reliable, as long as you have a nice weekend car tucked into the garage! God I miss driving the Corrado as a daily (I took the missus' MK2 to work on Monday just to get my fun 'fix'), but I am glad it's dry and clean in the garage at the moment. I think MK2s still make decent dailys if you don't mind the lack of comfort or safety features. The 8v GTI is quite economical, generally reliable if maintained properly and cheap and easy to fix when it goes wrong. It's fun to drive and reasonably spacious. It's a shame they're all so old now and things like rust are taking hold of most examples. My main issue with a MK2 is that if I had one as a daily I would be tempted to get it all fixed up and tidy, and it would become bottomless money pit #3. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 7, 2011 Yeah I like mk2s as dailies, but then I haven't done this many commuting miles (50 a day) for a long time. You quickly find out what parts need doing! I agree 100% about money pit #3. It's too easy to put later brakes etc on it, and get the panels so that it looks nice again. I'm not bothered with bodywork as long as it's not really bad. I may do the tailgate before it goes I'm not sure. I'm not planning on letting it go for a bit if I can possibly help it. The twisty roads and roundabout strewn dual carriageways between Oxford and Northants are great fun :D ---------- Post added at 02:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:58 PM ---------- Bought the new blue temp sensor now - few p under £20 from VW with the O-ring. Tempted to fit tonight before doing 25 miles home. Also ordered the Knock Sensor bolt so will fit that this weekend. It may not need to be done, but it's reassuring to know that the sensors are new (and genuine) and will probs help in the future if I have to sell. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 11, 2011 Hi guys, I did the braided vac lines tonight and the car is running great! Starts quicker, idles smoother and seems to be better through gears. Problem is the little green T-piece which connects 3 of the hoses above the cam cover (part number 113201943B) broke when I swapped them over as the new hose was so tight I had to give it a bit of oomph to get it on. I've tried various websites including Ebay but to no avail. I know it's just a vac line connector, and I don't really wanna buy the same part from a breaker car as it will probably be just as brittle (it all shattered after I tried to get the broken parts out of the new pipe!) I've bodged it together now but I really don't want to run like that long term. Does anyone know if these are still being made, or whether there is a part from some other random machine that I can use to replace it? Really don't mind if it's a pattern part, VAG genuine or a magical piece of pipe from B&Q that has right ID/OD! IIRC hose is 3.0 or 3.25mm inner diameter. Thanks for all the help, Jon. p.s. car seems to be better all through the rev range now, instead of being bit gutless low down and then better up top as before - classic pressure loss issue? Reminds me instantly of a blowing exhaust where bottom end is bad, but top end is fine as the pressure differential is overcome. Just some thoughts. Looking forward to the run to work tomorrow, should be a good test. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G-Lad 0 Posted December 11, 2011 (edited) I believe you can use any Mk2 tailgate. You just have to swap the GTI glass over if you want to retain the spoiler. Then there's the issue of the black window-surround sticker. Yes, any Mk2 tailgate will be fine. The late (H/90 onwards) ones have a colour coded handle and lock surround on atleast the higher spec models if not all. You will need the GTi glass and spoiler (bolts through the glass) plus a set of the rear window vinyl from these guys: http://www.volkswagenstickers.co.uk/index2.php?cmd=search&cat=8 It is really easy to pull the wiper spindle apart, lube it up and stop it sticking, plus look out for a good central locking unit in the tailgate. Hopefully you can source a good tailgate with the correct soundproofing and plenty of wax, if you hunt and focus on the low spec models cherished by grandads etc. Edit: ..oops, replied to a bit of an old post there!! :D Edited December 11, 2011 by G-Lad Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted December 11, 2011 (edited) Hi guys, ... Problem is the little green T-piece which connects 3 of the hoses above the cam cover (part number 113201943B) broke if you don't want to use a second hand one (can't see that would be a problem though) I reckon a fishtank air supply hose joiner/splitter would be basically the same, look on e-bay or your local pets-at-home :lol: I say this because I have fish and those bits look so similar :) you must be able to get VW or generic vac hose connectors though, so many cars use them fish airline part: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Angels-Aquatics-Pet-Supplies-Aquarium/dp/B003NPW8S6/ref=pd_rhf_gw_shvl29 Edited December 12, 2011 by davidwort Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 12, 2011 Cheers David! Any idea of the OD of the aquatic T-piece? will do some research :D Also car still using bit more fuel than normal - any one else getting this? Is it a winter thing? I didn't think the cold start mode lasted so long even on older cars to affect fuel economy so much. Started new job today, it is fun :D ---------- Post added at 07:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:17 PM ---------- Aha Aqua tees on ebay are 4mm so they should be a snug fit!! Cheers again david :salute: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 15, 2011 I want to get someone to check my CO and also timing on my mk2 golf digi. Shouldn't be a long job, i just don't have a timing light or gas analyser. I've read RJs guide to Digi and have replaced most sensors/lines now. I'll also take a copy when I go to the garage to get it checked over. Car seems to be using more fuel than expected, and pops at high rpm WOT gearchanges. Never stalls, and always starts and idles well. Checked intake boot when I did all the vac lines(white hard plastic and braided items) and also cleaned out the TB. After I replaced the white hard lines the car seemed to use more fuel. I don't really understand that myself. Could I have upset something in the airbox? After doing a search I found that it could be a manifold leak (either of them) so will check the exhaust for cracks and also inlet bolts for tightness. TBH it does smell of petrol when it's started from cold, that probably isn't too helpful in diagnosing though as I know its overfuelling...! Quick summary: -Cambelt changed before vac lines done. Notes say "was running lean" so not sure if they have adjusted it to be richer now. One of the workers owns a white Rallye there so i'm sure he knows how to set up digi after the belt change - Sharp Autos in Newbury. Engine still had fubar knock sensor on at this point so perhaps it wans't working and therefore garage tuned slightly richer to be safe. -BTS known to be working: car bogs when it is disconnected at normal operating temperature, -New VAG knock sensor and bolt, torqued to 15lbft 2 days ago done by me. Do I need to rev over 3000rpm 3 times with BTS disconnected after replacing the knock sensor or is that just for tuning? I have never done that, so could go do it at lunch. Think that's all I can think of for now. Sorry if there is an obvious answer elsewhere but I've already searched for 8v overfuelling, garage in northants (one useful thread from 06 but links no longer work) but I will call Pitstop as they are quite near to me in Brize Norton. Cheers, Jon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted December 15, 2011 Worth a trip to Stealth mate as they can RR tune it, only an hour from you isn't it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony_ack 0 Posted December 15, 2011 I wouldn't worry about manifolds just yet - popping, especially on overrun is a sign of too much fuel. Makes sense that it is now running rich to me... If you had vac leaks before, more air would have been entering the engine than that which was metered by the MAF, so to compensate for the extra air, someone may have increased the fuelling in the past (and at that point it may still have been running lean). Now the airleaks have gone but the engine is still getting extra fuel. You have done pretty much everything you need to do to get the injection and intake system up to scratch, and now it needs the CO and timing setting up. Don't underestimate the effect of getting the CO right. Any garage should be able to do the CO/timing but just make sure they know to set timing to 6 deg BTDC @ 2-2.5k rpm - most garages won't know this and will attempt to set the timing at idle. Might be worth going back to the garage where you had your cambelt done if one of the guys has a Rallye Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 16, 2011 @Steve, yeah I was thinking an RR tune might be the ticket. No clue when I'll fit that in though, probs the New Year now. @tony, Yeah all that makes sense to be honest. I'm hoping that the timing is spot on as the the cambelts been done recently and that just the mixture needs tweaking. I also think I ned a new FPR as I swapped in a decent vac line t-piece tonight which meant reattaching all the new tight vac lines and the vac line connector on the FPR is really wobbly now. Not sure if it's leaking but car does feel a bit more hesitant :/ The connector looks like it could snap off as it's wobbling about a bit. I'm picking the missus up in a bit so i'll take it for drive then just to make sure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted December 19, 2011 Seems like the new vac lines were getting a bit pinched when I replaced oil filler cap after removing it for extra working space. All seems well now! Still loving the mk2 chassis on the daily commute - 25 miles from oxford up the A34 north in traffic which lets it warm, a little cruise up one junction of the M40 and then the lovely A43 with lots of roundabouts :D Fuel economy isn't great, low 30s at best but it's just so much fun and that's what I want when I'm doing 50+ miles a day. It's easy enough to sit at 55/60 in too and follow a lorry all the way to work without feeling like you need to go faster which is really nice. Car fails to let me down despite having a layer of heavy frost on this morning :D Also thinking of moving closer to work as Oxford rental prices are horrific esp when I don't need to be inside the ring road! Wifey is in Banbury 1/2 days a week too so hopefully find something a little closer when our tenancy runs out in April. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony_ack 0 Posted December 19, 2011 55-60mph following a lorry should return you 40mpg-ish - get the CO set - it will pay for itself in a month!! Alternatively the warm-up phase in traffic won't be doing the MPG any favours but 35 is still realistic. 8v's are pretty hardy creatures in the winter. I remember starting up my old 8v when it was covered in 5-6 inches of frozen snow a couple of years ago and it didn't complain - started with the first touch of the key. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites